Should see mine next week,...Didn't know about the newer version of the R1 race model,.....
Formula RO brakes
- Thread starter IH8Rice
- Start date
odd that QBP or BTI no longer lists them
I noticed that a couple of weeks ago; strange. My set is coming in today!
Anybody running these? Any issues with sticky pistons or leaking seals?
I'm guessing my The One levers would work with these calipers, anyone know?
Any other new info?
I'm guessing my The One levers would work with these calipers, anyone know?
Any other new info?
More power is always nice. I've never ever had a brake (including my current 4 pot saints) and thought "no I really don't want any more brake power". At the end a long arse run on what were my local ahem...sustainably graded tracks, my brakes were almost on fire and my index finger twas sore, I've never had a problem with modulation.
Oval pistons are a great idea, but manufacturing them and getting seals to play along is hard/expensive. Reminded me straight away of the old NSR500.
Oval pistons are a great idea, but manufacturing them and getting seals to play along is hard/expensive. Reminded me straight away of the old NSR500.
They Are great. I am selling mine if anyone cares. Message me for details
I am getting 2013 RO!
I am getting 2013 RO!
May I ask why?
Mini Review:
Had about 25 days on mine in 2012, and they stood up well. Had to send one back as the lever piston got slightly bent. I had a minor crash (bike tumbled head over ass onto rocks and I think I bashed the brake at that time). Superb backup and service from Colin at Formula Canada; even though he was heading to Crankworx he fixed me up pronto pronto.
Zero fade, zero heating up, no need to bleed, absolutely rock solid performance, predictable, loads of power and modulation through the fingers which is easy to figure out just how little brake application you need. Sore fingers/hands? Arm pump? What is that?
Still on the original pads with loads of wear left. For some reason, despite the monstrous power these brakes chew through pads way less than my old MY2010 Ones.
For some reason, they never seem to destabilize the bike even when fully applied, no real sense of lock up or drama going on at the rubber/dirt interface, just solid controlled braking power.
Solid, and worth the $$$ IMHO.
Moar ovals !!!!
Last edited:
Sweet, cheers.
Informative, thank you. Crashes can wreck anything. They sound like a winner.
Did we work out the weight penalty compared to the Ones? and is The One lever the same and/or compatible?
The Formula site is showing something like a 50g penalty for the R0 v T1.
Have you seen the T1 Ti...zomg....I dribbled something warm.
Apologies - a self confessed Formula fanboi here.
http://www.formula-italy.com/en/product/t1-25th-anniversary/49
Have you seen the T1 Ti...zomg....I dribbled something warm.
Apologies - a self confessed Formula fanboi here.
http://www.formula-italy.com/en/product/t1-25th-anniversary/49
I am getting 2013. Getting a 2013 bike and 2013 parts. 2012 is old news!
I'd have loved to give these a go, as my Formula the one and R1 set are fantastic.
My only - but quite major - gripe is that the lever is rubbish. Any slight fall off the bike where the brake lever touches the ground, it will bend like crazy.
Spare parts are quite expensive and with my hobby of braille reading the ground on a too regular occurrence, I got fed up with the bill at the end of each crash.
My only - but quite major - gripe is that the lever is rubbish. Any slight fall off the bike where the brake lever touches the ground, it will bend like crazy.
Spare parts are quite expensive and with my hobby of braille reading the ground on a too regular occurrence, I got fed up with the bill at the end of each crash.
Last edited:
My The Ones are covered in deep scratches, and I've never bent a lever. Luck of the draw maybe. Or are others bending leavers more regularly than other brand brakes?
It could be my ****ty luck, but I'm pretty sick of replacing them.
Learn to ride, bro
id like to think so. i was thinking of doing this instead of buying a whole new brake set.
If I learned from all my mistakes, I would have been a genius and a World Cup champ by nowLearn to ride, bro
So a bit of a grave dig but something strange happened when i changed pads in my ro set a couple of days ago. When i pushed the piston back in some fluid leaked out of the lever. The lever stroke still feels as solid as before and nothing feels weird while braking hard on long descents.
So anyone have any guess as to what happened? Was it just some fluid that got pushed pass some o-ring, considering that i spend a few hours almost everyday in a bike park they see quite a lot of use. So a rebuild and proper bleed isnt to far off but for easy of mind i would appreceiate any thoughts from others that have run Formula brakes before.
Otherwise i am god damn impressed with the brakes. Will never run anything but these in the future, saves my arms, fingers and hands so much it is scary. About the best purchase i made for riding pleasure.
So anyone have any guess as to what happened? Was it just some fluid that got pushed pass some o-ring, considering that i spend a few hours almost everyday in a bike park they see quite a lot of use. So a rebuild and proper bleed isnt to far off but for easy of mind i would appreceiate any thoughts from others that have run Formula brakes before.
Otherwise i am god damn impressed with the brakes. Will never run anything but these in the future, saves my arms, fingers and hands so much it is scary. About the best purchase i made for riding pleasure.
Guess they were slightly overfilled and you pushed some fluid past a seal, did it come out the side or the back of the clamp, i.e past the diaphragm?
Is anyone having issues with the amount of reach adjustment? I recently got a set of 2012 RO's (without the FCS adjusters), and I'm having a hard time getting the reach where I want it. When engaged, the levers stop around one inch from the handlebar. Without bending the levers, is there a way I can get the levers closer to the bar? Buying the FCS adjusters might be a solution. I've tried contacting Formula, still awaiting their reply.
im not sure the FCS will achieve what you are after Thundrbucket.
If you backed them off after bleeding the allow the lever to travel closer to the bar you would end up with a mushy lever feel when they started to engage. I do not think the FCS's can be used to add additional reach on the TFLA knobs. I wonder if you could actually adjust the TFRA knobs or lever itself to get where you wanted though, for example, either by shortening the connector from the master cylinder to the lever or bending the lever at the knuckle. Drastic perhaps but still, ideas to mull over.
If you backed them off after bleeding the allow the lever to travel closer to the bar you would end up with a mushy lever feel when they started to engage. I do not think the FCS's can be used to add additional reach on the TFLA knobs. I wonder if you could actually adjust the TFRA knobs or lever itself to get where you wanted though, for example, either by shortening the connector from the master cylinder to the lever or bending the lever at the knuckle. Drastic perhaps but still, ideas to mull over.
I think shortening the connector from the MC to the lever sounds like the best option, will have to check around to see if and how it is possible. My idea with the FCS was that since it adjusts the contact point (per description), the lever throw would be affected. Increased lever throw => shorter reach when engaged.
what fluid "covers" both types?
4 or 5.1 will both work. 5 wont
4 or 5.1 will both work. 5 wont
FCS solved this issue for me. Levers will have bigger throw, and they feel a little softer at bite point, but it brings them closer, not as close as i want, but i have adapted. Sorry, no access to the bike right now to measure.
---Old thread resurrection---
Lookin to purchase a set of RO's but had a few questions for those who have had some time with them.
First off, who has the best pricing for a set? I don't need adapters or rotors.
Is the FCS really needed? It doesn't seem to do all that much.
Did Formula address the tight caliper/rotor tolerance with the RO. I see some places selling them show a description with ECT (Enhanced Caliper Technology) for better caliper "rollback". Is this something all year RO's have.
Thanks!
Lookin to purchase a set of RO's but had a few questions for those who have had some time with them.
First off, who has the best pricing for a set? I don't need adapters or rotors.
Is the FCS really needed? It doesn't seem to do all that much.
Did Formula address the tight caliper/rotor tolerance with the RO. I see some places selling them show a description with ECT (Enhanced Caliper Technology) for better caliper "rollback". Is this something all year RO's have.
Thanks!
Ive been on them for at 2 years now, 2 pairs, a '12 and '13 set.
Not sure who is cheapest in NA, sorry.
FCS can help dial in the lever pull and compensates for wearing pads. Given the price of pads I don't see any reason not to have it. If you don't have it, just change the pads more often. Without it you can get long lever pulls IME.
My newer ROs have the additional clearance on roll back, I also have the previous pair without it. I don't notice any difference between the two, set your brakes up correctly with straight rotors and you aren't like to have rotor clearance issues, again, IME. I guess the additional roll back could help if you damage your rotor or are ham fisted setting up. No reason not to have it. It is retro hittable to older ROs I understand (its just new pistons) but getting parts and the price would likely make it unfeasible.
brilliant brakes, great modulation, tons of power etc. I wouldn't use anything else right now.
Not sure who is cheapest in NA, sorry.
FCS can help dial in the lever pull and compensates for wearing pads. Given the price of pads I don't see any reason not to have it. If you don't have it, just change the pads more often. Without it you can get long lever pulls IME.
My newer ROs have the additional clearance on roll back, I also have the previous pair without it. I don't notice any difference between the two, set your brakes up correctly with straight rotors and you aren't like to have rotor clearance issues, again, IME. I guess the additional roll back could help if you damage your rotor or are ham fisted setting up. No reason not to have it. It is retro hittable to older ROs I understand (its just new pistons) but getting parts and the price would likely make it unfeasible.
brilliant brakes, great modulation, tons of power etc. I wouldn't use anything else right now.
Thanks for the help.
It's not a must to purchase within the US.
I've read that people have gotten good prices from over seas (UK)
I just don't know of any sites.
Thanks again.
It's not a must to purchase within the US.
I've read that people have gotten good prices from over seas (UK)
I just don't know of any sites.
Thanks again.
RO's are immense. Massive controlled power. Fuss free.
Formulas have always seemed to have tight tolerance between pad and rotor. I've tried pretty much everything over the years but it just seems like something to live with.