Lol how is a maxel fragile? maybe you are just not capable of using such advanced technology?.....
Fox 2013
- Thread starter HAB
- Start date
the 888 is actually a pain in the ass compared to all the others. 4mm pinch bolts and 2-6mm wrenches. if you are lucky you can get away with using 1-6mm wrench on the axle.
It was supposed to be undercover. It had been ridden many times before that by a few riders. Then it got stolen out of the truck in Quebec.
I have the qr maxle on my boxxer as I take the wheel off during transportation. Works great and has never given me a problem in 4 years.
I just bought a Marz 44 off Ebay for a stupid cheap price. Good luck my DMR Convertable hub has interchangeable ends to make it fit 20x110/15QRx100/10x110 mm dropouts!
I'll give 15QR a try. But as most people said, it's a stupid standard. I'll gladly exchange those negligible 9-15 grams they claim to lower against the 20mm Maxle for the rigidity it brings.
It doesn't need to be redesigned because most mountain bikers can't ride to even half of what it can handle, but most mountain are idiots and think they need something new to go faster so it WILL be redesigned because people will sell perfectly good parts to unnecessarily upgrade.
Make sense?
Make sense?
Between bike companies and Off Road companies getting heisted sounds like there may be room for a venture. Rented armed security highly trained, and highly expensive!
not really. I can't ride as fast as steve peat could push a 99 Judy DH, but that doesn't mean that I can't realize the benefits of a brand new boxxer WC over one of them. Improvements are improvements.It doesn't need to be redesigned because most mountain bikers can't ride to even half of what it can handle, but most mountain are idiots and think they need something new to go faster so it WILL be redesigned because people will sell perfectly good parts to unnecessarily upgrade.
Make sense?
^^
Especially if said improvements equate to longer service intervals and better reliability.
Especially if said improvements equate to longer service intervals and better reliability.
Sorry will, you're right. I should have said with the latest gear, not the older stuff. My fault for being so general.
Jeff, you seem to post this sentiment a lot. If you're largely of the opinion that new products in the bike market are a waste of time - and you do seem to be - then jumping on internet forums to find people who are excited about this stuff so you can tell them they're wasting their time seems a bit pointless no? Sure, virtually nobody can ride to "what a Fox 40 can handle", but almost everyone can tell a pretty distinct difference between most of the different suspension parts (as well as most other components that aren't completely inanimate/standardised like stems or front hubs or whatever) on the market. I'm a terrible climber compared to any serious XC rider and am certainly not one to push an XC racebike "to its limits", but that doesn't mean I don't notice a lighter bike, or better climbing geometry, or anything else that makes the ride easier/more comfortable/more fun.It doesn't need to be redesigned because most mountain bikers can't ride to even half of what it can handle, but most mountain are idiots and think they need something new to go faster so it WILL be redesigned because people will sell perfectly good parts to unnecessarily upgrade.
Make sense?
If you don't want to splash out on the latest and greatest because you think it's a waste of money, that's fair enough and I get it, but for those of us who are willing to drop the coin on stuff just because it's scientifically proven to be over 0.01% better than last year's model... just let us be hey?
QR15 is better than normal 9mm QR.
that is the point.
that is the point.
Fine but it's worse that the older 20mm standard which is why it's stupid. When I come to power 9mm and 15mm are gone for mountain bikes.
15mm was supposed to be the happen medium between 9mm qr and 20mm
just like tapered steerers were supposed to be the happy medium between 1-1/8" and full 1.5"
just like 142 hubs are supposed to be the happy medium between 135 and 150
just like spanish bb's were supposed to be the happy medium between american and euro
do i need to continue?
I was a pretty fervent hater of 15mm, but I have one, and have to admit I don't hate it nearly as much now that its on my bike. Would 20mm be better? probably, but honestly, with a tapered steer, its plenty stiff enough. My wheel doesn't fall out, and it feels much stiffer then a QR, and I'm told its pretty light.
And 142 is baddass. Anybody who has gotten to use it is happy with it. And for the haters, pretty much every 142 bike out there has adapters so you can run traditional flexy QR in its place if you hate progress.
I'm running tapered, 15mm QR, and I wish I had 142mm on my bike. Boy am I a sucker who has bought into the marketing hype. Or it rides pretty well.
Anyway, glad to see fox is doing the 36's in 160mm variety with rc2 again.
And 142 is baddass. Anybody who has gotten to use it is happy with it. And for the haters, pretty much every 142 bike out there has adapters so you can run traditional flexy QR in its place if you hate progress.
I'm running tapered, 15mm QR, and I wish I had 142mm on my bike. Boy am I a sucker who has bought into the marketing hype. Or it rides pretty well.
Anyway, glad to see fox is doing the 36's in 160mm variety with rc2 again.
what does 142 accomplish that a 135x10 thru-axle doesn't?
it means you don't have complete idiot muppets flying down the trail following their back wheel thats come off.
Otherwise, nothing.
Otherwise, nothing.
theres no marketing in 135 duh
It seems that if a 20mm axle clamp is designed right (40/888) it is very stiff. Both the Fox 36 and RS Revelation are pretty poor examples. They can only be tightened hand tight.
Revelation works loose every ride, plus it only expands on one side.
The 36, you can grab the wheel and knock it back and forth with most hubs that have replaceable end caps. The King or Hadley hubs help that problem, but with DT and Hope it is not so hot.
I have found that my Marz 44 with a 15mm axle that clamps down tight is actually stiffer than the RS Revelation system was.
I'd be down for 20mm all mountain setups but if they can't be executed properly then i guess 15mm wins.
The X Fusion 20mm system seems to work well, it has the Syntace system with cone wedges on both sides. I still check it frequently, but it is tool free.
Revelation works loose every ride, plus it only expands on one side.
The 36, you can grab the wheel and knock it back and forth with most hubs that have replaceable end caps. The King or Hadley hubs help that problem, but with DT and Hope it is not so hot.
I have found that my Marz 44 with a 15mm axle that clamps down tight is actually stiffer than the RS Revelation system was.
I'd be down for 20mm all mountain setups but if they can't be executed properly then i guess 15mm wins.
The X Fusion 20mm system seems to work well, it has the Syntace system with cone wedges on both sides. I still check it frequently, but it is tool free.
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my solution: i put pike lowers on my revelation
Notice Nico's custom 36 with a 40 style axle and the kooky qr skewers removed and ti bolts added...
...pic?Notice Nico's custom 36 with a 40 style axle and the kooky qr skewers removed and ti bolts added...
crappy pic...
And, no, you can't just stick a 40 axle in there but you can put bolts on instead of qr flappys. Having a custom 36 axle made- that would be Pro, and not just US Pro.
And, no, you can't just stick a 40 axle in there but you can put bolts on instead of qr flappys. Having a custom 36 axle made- that would be Pro, and not just US Pro.
Lots of win in that pic...
Have you used it? Its super convenient. Wheel pops on and off with no tools (which I hate carrying, the fewer tools the better on my XC rides) and aligns well (just drop the wheel in, no lining up the axle/hub), its stiff. I don't see any reason to hate it - its great for trailside fixes (better then either QR or 10mm bolt on) and its as stiff or stiffer then either. If it required getting new hubs, I could see hating on it - who wants to have to buy new hubs every time they get a new frame? But since there is no forced conversion (every bike that I know of with 142 can easily run 135) I think its a pretty rad upgrade. It also helps convert the standard from 9mm QR to 12mm, which I think is a pretty good long term move. Its like complaining that 1.5 or tapered exists, when you have a 1.125 fork.
I'm with you... The majority of these new 'standards' are awesome esp the 142 & tapered stuff it just makes great sense. I dont put 15mm in that category, add 20mm to above and that is a great combo.
Yeah, I'm not going to go champion 15mm axles, but at the same time it doesn't bother me nearly as much as I thought it would. Its pretty straightforward, its easy to get my wheel on and off, its relatively stiff (I think that's the big one, I was expecting it to be floppy as fyck, but with a tapered steer (which makes a bigger diff IMO) its plenty stiff enough to let your bike get a little lose on the descents and not feel like its holding you back. Would 20mm be better? Probably, but 15mm is still a huge step up from 9mm QR, and for the XC guys who hate anything heavy thats probably a plus.
Agree 100%.
It provides the endcaps on your hubs a seat to locate to instead of just passing through the frame. If you have a true thru-axle rear triangle (axle is captured in the dropouts and fully enclosed), it makes a world of difference. If you have a thru-bolt rear with open dropouts, then it is effectively the same thing.
Ha! This pretty much sums it up and applies to lots of stuff, doesn't it? I mean that is sig material right there. Lots of hate all over the place - especially the web - until people actually try the product.
People seem to automatically hate it because it's a different "standard", and there is some merit to that. But like a lot of other new products, I find that the 15mm stuff works great.
I get your point but there still isn't a reason Fox couldn't have made a 10mm version of the exact same mechanism. I agree that the quick release aspect of it is nice but that doesn't mean they had to make up a pointless news standard to implement it.
15mm is sheer bs. made by shimano and fox, need i say more? i really don't know why they did it since i see no profit for them there. 
20mm was already there, perfectly fine and i bet can be made as light and the non qr versions must be lighter but oh zee noes, i must haz qr!
if they really wanted a new front axle standard, the should have made it 25, 30mm for the usd forks. this funny syntace business on the rear ends doesn't bother me since the older standard hubs are simply spaced out to fit.
20mm was already there, perfectly fine and i bet can be made as light and the non qr versions must be lighter but oh zee noes, i must haz qr!if they really wanted a new front axle standard, the should have made it 25, 30mm for the usd forks. this funny syntace business on the rear ends doesn't bother me since the older standard hubs are simply spaced out to fit.
Foes has been using 30mm for 12+ years
I hate to play the riding abilities card, because I consider myself to be proficient at mountain biking, but certainly nothing special. I'll add that plenty of people are probably better then I am. But I've done this drop on my 125mm trance x with a 125mm 15mmQR tapered fork
, I've done big boy rock gardens on it, and stiffness is never a problem. Lack of travel and geometry, or me being a hack, sure, but I've never lost a line because its not stiff enough. And yeah, I'm riding rock gardens fast enough to pinch flat at 40psi on maxxis 2ply 2.5 tires with my front wheel. Chances are, if you're feeling excessive flex, its not in your fork on front wheel. Its in your bars and stem.