thats why they call it speculation...the figure was pulled from someones ass. Besides, how many people would buy a 3000$ fork?Matt D said:
Fox DH Fork production pics
- Thread starter Beyr
- Start date
The positive spring in the Firefly is Ti, but there are a whole lot of steel springs that are being sold as "Firefly springs". Actually, a lot of OEM spec'd Fireflys came with steel springs too.syadasti said:The negative spring in the firefly is ti, not the positive one that varies by rider weight - that is why the springs are cheap - they aren't ti - at least when I ordered a different spring for my firefly, it wasn't ti - a magnet would stick to it
It's going to be $1500. And that's from fox.zedro said:
The non-adapter thing to me is kind of stupid. I'd think you'll run into the same problems you have with the direct mount manitous. If something strips or a bolt breaks off, it's in the fork, not a cheap easily replacible adapter. Ever non IS tab manitou I've owned has at least one helicoil in it.
I hope so. 20 bucks isn't bad (Firefly springs)... but longer and widerbinary visions said:
= $40 - 60 for a pair of springs. Hope it won't climb as much as a Ti spring for a rear shock ($200+). Maybe I'm really cheap....
well, thats upto the designers to make the proper bolt depth; that way you strip the hed before the threads, something the Boxxer designers should of learned.kidwoo said:
lol were like the automotive industry now. way to many standards and differant way to do things. pretty soon mechanics will need a degree to work on our bikes. :mumble: :mumble: :mumble: :mumble: :mumble: :mumble: .
hey shimano and hope are being different lol.-
hey shimano and hope are being different lol.-
Putting any threads in the most expensive part of the system (wrench, bolt, fork lowers) is still just dumb. Hardened steel allen wrench, hardened steel bolt, magnesium/alluminum allow sliders. Guess who loses first. Those tabs don't look that thick/deep.zedro said:
Of course I still don't know that those tabs have threads in them or if fox is just expecting you to use a 6" rotor adapter with an 8" rotor or some dealy bob that fox will provide you with. But boy if those tabs are threaded, I'm poised for some serious bitchin n' moanin'.
This was discussed earlier in this thread and I think they should figure out a way to get rid of that BIG black piece sticking out on the botton of the fork. Perhaps have one that is removable. Its bound to get smacked on a rock.... 
and you end up somewhere on the right side of the trail (hopefully not a cliff).
Then the dudes at Fox are going pull a huge
, and the end result is a huge a$$ bill sitting on your desk next your mortage, electrical, utility, auto, et cetera, et cetera bills. 
:mumble:
and you end up somewhere on the right side of the trail (hopefully not a cliff).Then the dudes at Fox are going pull a huge
, and the end result is a huge a$$ bill sitting on your desk next your mortage, electrical, utility, auto, et cetera, et cetera bills. :mumble:
yeah it just appears to be a modified IS placement, only way to make it work with everything.kidwoo said:Putting any threads in the most expensive part of the system (wrench, bolt, fork lowers) is still just dumb. Hardened steel allen wrench, hardened steel bolt, magnesium/alluminum allow sliders. Guess who loses first. Those tabs don't look that thick/deep.
Of course I still don't know that those tabs have threads in them or if fox is just expecting you to use a 6" rotor adapter with an 8" rotor or some dealy bob that fox will provide you with. But boy if those tabs are threaded, I'm poised for some serious bitchin n' moanin'.
As for the thread thing, well theres already 4 at the dropouts and at least 6 at the crowns, so two more properly designed threads wont hurt. With good thread tolerances, proper depth and button head allen bolts (ie. smaller allen keys), you wont be able to strip theads, the head will strip first.
I doubt that these tabs will be threaded. I have a 125 RLC and those fox users out there have tabs that are not threaded...kidwoo said:Putting any threads in the most expensive part of the system (wrench, bolt, fork lowers) is still just dumb. Hardened steel allen wrench, hardened steel bolt, magnesium/alluminum allow sliders. Guess who loses first. Those tabs don't look that thick/deep.
Of course I still don't know that those tabs have threads in them or if fox is just expecting you to use a 6" rotor adapter with an 8" rotor or some dealy bob that fox will provide you with. But boy if those tabs are threaded, I'm poised for some serious bitchin n' moanin'.
I'm concerned about the lightweight and durability... Its a matter of wait 'n see. It'll be interesting how it pans out when 1,000 Billy Bob riders hit their local DH trails. If it looks good mechanically & runs good, then I'll join the 1,000 Billy Bob riders to make it 1,001.
Yeah but pinch bolts on an axle bolt don't need to be that tight. Bolts holding on a brake caliper do. And crowns arent' typically softer magnesium alloys, just aluminum. And yeah this is just argument for argument's sake since I doubt that's the "new standard" they're talking about (which is not the case on my or anyone elses fox fork out there now cali4niabiker that's the "old" standard).zedro said:
i dunno, i crank my Shivers dropout bolts to the limit where they cant turn no more. I'd surely kill a Boxxer in 5 seconds flatkidwoo said:
c'mon now. we all know that the disc tabs all forks have no threads... the calipers are threaded, the tabs just sandwich between the bolt head and caliper like spacers.....kidwoo said:
The lowers on the Vanilla 100R are soft as cottonelle - I saw a guy wash out in a corner at Sand Hill Ranch. He barely put any pressure on the caliper when he went down, but still managed to bend both tabs incali4niabiker said:I doubt that these tabs will be threaded. I have a 125 RLC and those fox users out there have tabs that are not threaded...
I'm concerned about the lightweight and durability... Its a matter of wait 'n see. It'll be interesting how it pans out when 1,000 Billy Bob riders hit their local DH trails. If it looks good mechanically & runs good, then I'll join the 1,000 Billy Bob riders to make it 1,001.
The new disc mount tabs are just placed differently on the lowers-further from the center of the axle and closer to the center of the hub. If you have an IS caliper (old XT for example), you don't need an adapter to fit a 203mm rotor or spacers to move the caliper inboard. If you have a post-mount caliper (Hayes, new XT, etc.), you will still need an adapter, but not the bigger ones used for 203mm rotors.
I agree, fox lowers are very soft. Hopefully they have beefed things up a bit for the DH fork. I am pretty sure fox wouldn't overlook something like that...Acadian said:The lowers on the Vanilla 100R are soft as cottonelle - I saw a guy wash out in a corner at Sand Hill Ranch. He barely put any pressure on the caliper when he went down, but still managed to bend both tabs in
Well, they have overlooked the fact that the Vanilla sounds like a New Orleans street musician dropping beats on a trashcan. 3+ years now and they still clunk and rattle. Hey, at least they are consistent.Transcend said:
I wish would have came with an MP3 player.
how is this possible, aren't the centers of each (the hub and the axle) in the same place?Dogboy said:
Yeah I don't know why some folks think those tabs are threaded, looks like they just made an IS mount to the same dimensions as the regular mount coupled with a 203mm adapter. You'll still need an adapter for post-mount. Seems like a great idea to me, either way the threads are not part of the soft fork lower - it's either the IS caliper or the post-mount adapter.
Me likey.
Me likey.
On a through-axle fork, the disc tabs are further from the rotor than they are on a QR fork.WestCoastHucker said:
are you relating things to a vertical plane? because i am still confused as to how there is a different center to a hub and axle. considering the hub rotates about the axle.....Dogboy said:
Sorry man, not trying to be confusing. Let's say you have 2 Marzocchi DJ forks, one with a QR front wheel and one with a QR20, and a Hayes caliper with a 6" rotor. The Hayes adapter on the QR front wheel will not position the caliper far enough inboard on the fork with the QR20 to line up with the rotor, therefore a different Hayes adapter is required-one with the post mount holes positioned closer to the center of the hub laterally-left to right. Geez this crap is confusingWestCoastHucker said:
so maybe this should have said?....
Dogboy said:
Or you space out the adapter with two washers :evil:Dogboy said:Sorry man, not trying to be confusing. Let's say you have 2 Marzocchi DJ forks, one with a QR front wheel and one with a QR20, and a Hayes caliper with a 6" rotor. The Hayes adapter on the QR front wheel will not position the caliper far enough inboard on the fork with the QR20 to line up with the rotor, therefore a different Hayes adapter is required-one with the post mount holes positioned closer to the center of the hub laterally-left to right. Geez this crap is confusing
Fox just eliminated the washersZark said:
ink:
methinks it repositions the mounting bolts as they would be on a 6" rotor. This would let you use an older Shimano XT w/o adapter or a hayes w/ 6" adapter if I'm correct.Dog Welder said: