Fox DHX 5.0 & RCS Ti Spring(3.0)
- Thread starter Ambriel
- Start date
What's the inner diameter of the spring? I know RCS now makes a spring specifically to fit the DHX with an ID of 1.38. They use to say the 1.43 ID fit the DHX, but I ran one on my shock for a while and ended up taking it off cause it moved around too much. And I'd have to use way too much preload to keep it still.
Do they even make a bigger retaining plate (the one you have pictured) for the DHX?
Do they even make a bigger retaining plate (the one you have pictured) for the DHX?
I would say that spring is too big for your shock. You'll need way too much preload to keep it in place. You can find the RCS springs that fit the DHX here: http://www.go-ride.com/SPD/rcs-dhx-ti-springs--800023CE-1201726024.jsp
I am thinking about doing some custom wafer which fits on the Ring.
Then there would be no rattling even with no preload.
The only question is if the Ring and Spring can handle the forces on the contact point, because the spring and ring are only supported up to the middle of the coil.
Then there would be no rattling even with no preload.
The only question is if the Ring and Spring can handle the forces on the contact point, because the spring and ring are only supported up to the middle of the coil.
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get two of these: http://www.azpartsmaster.com/images/catalog/ishop/6060.jpg (slip joint washer available at any hardware store for about 10 cents)
Put one at either end of the spring with the tapered side facing the spring. This will center your spring and keep it from moving..no need to get another spring or crank the preload. I ran this same set-up on my DHR for over a year...works perfect (RCS actually made a similar part for about $10 each, but they are no longer on their site). If the spring is a high rate(thicker wire diameter), it might rub on the bottom out knob a bit, but you can remove it in 30 seconds.
Zero preload is considered when the spring is just snug and making full contact with the spring collars. If you need to back the preload off further for sag, your spring is too stiff.
Put one at either end of the spring with the tapered side facing the spring. This will center your spring and keep it from moving..no need to get another spring or crank the preload. I ran this same set-up on my DHR for over a year...works perfect (RCS actually made a similar part for about $10 each, but they are no longer on their site). If the spring is a high rate(thicker wire diameter), it might rub on the bottom out knob a bit, but you can remove it in 30 seconds.
Zero preload is considered when the spring is just snug and making full contact with the spring collars. If you need to back the preload off further for sag, your spring is too stiff.
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EXACT same shock and spring as mine. No problems in 5 years. I run 2 and 1/2 turns of preload.