[Dirtjumper999]

Just about to send the .dwgs for the prototype of my hardtail. I want to get a build going for it. Light Light Light stiff stiff stiff is the theme.

Since the Argyle RCT is just as expensive as a Fox, I figure I may as well go the full monty. So I have some questions for those of you who run Fox on you dj bike.

I am looking at either the 831 or the 36 Float (shimmed to 100mm)

How does the fork handle torsional stress from footjams?
Do you REALLY use the high and low speed compression adjustments?
For the 831, do the dropouts on the fork have compatibility issues with any 15to20mm axle shims?

I really like the idea of having a sub 4.5lb fork for this build, because I am trying to keep it under 25lbs. The frame should come out to be about 4.6lbs give or take a few ounces.

If you must, give me an in depth personal review on your fox fork, I want to know how they handle abuse. Thanks guys

 

[TheTruth]

I've decided that you should run the fox. But I would prefer if you did not run an air sprung fork, however that is up to you.

Nobody uses high and low speed compression to ride dj. I basically set my fork to stiff and keep the rebound in the middle.

The 831 does run a 15mm maxle but as far as shimming goes i think you should be fine.

Also, I have been foot jamming the **** out of my argyle 318 and it has been fine. THe fox is actually a little bit stiffer imo. But both forks have very stiff lowers and arch's.

All in all i would go with an 831 or a lower end argyle.

 

[nwd_26]

You didn't ask for my opinion. But here it is.

Just about to send the .dwgs for the prototype of my hardtail. I want to get a build going for it. Light Light Light stiff stiff stiff is the theme.
Awesome. I'm the same way, weight weenie who hates flex.

Since the Argyle RCT is just as expensive as a Fox, I figure I may as well go the full monty. So I have some questions for those of you who run Fox on you dj bike.
You're right to stay away from the RCT, it's more or less a Solo Air Pike, which have proven to have seal issues, flex issues, and cracking (in my experience) issues, at the arch. I bought a Pike after snapping my Dirt Jam, ran it for a few years, lowered, cracked, replaced seals, seals, seals. Now I'm on a super custom 36.

I am looking at either the 831 or the 36 Float (shimmed to 100mm)

How does the fork handle torsional stress from footjams?
Do you REALLY use the high and low speed compression adjustments?
For the 831, do the dropouts on the fork have compatibility issues with any 15to20mm axle shims?
Anecdotal evidence (what other kind is there in this sport?) indicates that the 32 platform does not deal well with spinning and footjams. Since the 831, structurally, is just a lowered Float 150, the same applies here. Friend of mine cracked his 32 with astounding speed riding nothing but street. Another friend bent his nose-casing a box jump slightly. An acquaintance who gets Fox help had an 831, decided to send it back and ask for a 36 Float.

The 36 is just beefy as hell. It's a fair bit taller because of the thicker crown, something to keep in mind. However I have not had ANY flex or bending issues with it so far. Footjams are easy as hell because of how tall the arch is. Mine used to be a 36 Float RC2 however upon getting it, I immediately swapped out the RC2 cartridge for a friend's R cartridge from his Vanilla. A few reasons: I didn't want to be banging that compression adjust off everything, it's without, he needed it more than I do (not having air preload), and finally, I figured I just did not need it. A few of my friends have the Float RC2 and honestly I cannot say that their forks feel better for having compression adjust. Want stiffer? Pump in air.

I'm not sure what you mean by compatibility issues with shims...keep in mind the 20mm standard is 20x110mm, but 15mm standard is 15x100. So there's no universal shim you can slide through.

I really like the idea of having a sub 4.5lb fork for this build, because I am trying to keep it under 25lbs. The frame should come out to be about 4.6lbs give or take a few ounces.
That is a light ass frame. Under 25 pounds should be no problem whatsoever, my Riot is 24.3 with parts made to survive a nuclear apocalypse, no brake, but a frame a pound heavier. What parts spec are you thinking?


If you must, give me an in depth personal review on your fox fork, I want to know how they handle abuse. Thanks guys
Glad you asked. I started out with a stock, used, 2007 36 Float RC2. Immediately swapped cartridges or whatever with a 2009 Van R. Dropped it to 80mm. One thing that's nice is that Fox travel spacers come in one side, work in both platforms, 32 and 36. I ran it at the max PSI, 90, and found that it would actually "raise" itself back up to like 120mm under high pressure. When I cracked it open to look at it, turns out one of the top-out springs snapped itself into three pieces. ****ty situation. Finally the piston straight-up blew up, there's a little metal pin taking a lot of force that just sheared. So the suspension tech at the local replaced it with a 32 piston he'd ordered in previously. This was probably the most important upgrade in retrospect.

It takes 150PSI rather than 90, doesn't raise itself up, and the shorter piston is both (slightly) lighter, and makes for a larger air chamber, obvious benefits there, over the 831 even (same piston). Now since 2007, I think they'd upped the pressure rating and I don't know if they still suffer from the self-raising issue. A friend has the 2010 36 Fit Float on his Capital, dropped to about 60mm, he's happy with it. Bone stock, no piston upgrades or anything.

I've had the fork for about a year and a half. No cracks, no flex, lots of snot beaten out of it. If it takes this....

I'm confident it's probably one of the strongest forks out for jumping/street.

 

[ServeEm]

Man that's pretty exciting about the frame. When do you think you'd get it once you send out the dwgs?

 

[BeerMe]

I've decided that you should run the fox. But I would prefer if you did not run an air sprung fork, however that is up to you.

Nobody uses high and low speed compression to ride dj. I basically set my fork to stiff and keep the rebound in the middle.

The 831 does run a 15mm maxle but as far as shimming goes i think you should be fine.

Also, I have been foot jamming the **** out of my argyle 318 and it has been fine. THe fox is actually a little bit stiffer imo. But both forks have very stiff lowers and arch's.

All in all i would go with an 831 or a lower end argyle.

Hahahahaha

 

[demo 9]

I like my 831, its really light. I cant speak for footjams that much, since i dont do them often, but from what i did, i didnt notice any issues. You will really notice the weight, that is what i got mine for. I run it on "force lock out" so it more or less rides like a rigid, but will give when you hit it hard. I dont use the adjustments-i have, but after i found what i like, that was it. I really like the lockout, i cant tell you enough how great it is. Its essentially a ****LOAD of LCS, that will open up upon a big impact, but why is it so good, flip a lever and it turns into butter, should you be riding to the trails. (in my case, almost a mile, with tons of roots) I keep mine pretty low on air, since its always locked out, but you can have it ride like a traditional fork, a soft XC fork, or a skatepark wrist saver, which is something i was never able to get with my previous DJ1 2 or 3. I think the chassis is good enough, and i dont think you will have any problems. Id give it a 9/10 and only missing 1 since i think it should still be a 20mm axle like everybody else.

 

[Tetreault]

i want to know when demo or the truth became suspension guru's

I am looking at either the 831 or the 36 Float (shimmed to 100mm)

Something to think about is for 2011 the 36mm chassis are using the RLC platform just as the 32mm forks, the rc2 is not limited to the 180mm, assuming that you wouldn't want to lower the fork almost half of its efective travel. there is no internal performance gain with going to a 2011 36 over a 32.

If you are thinking about going the used route, or you manage to find some new old stock with the 160mm rc2, then let me know and ill provide some info on that front.

How does the fork handle torsional stress from footjams?

the 36 chassis is noticeably stiffer even just while riding on some light cross country trails, and thus makes a massive difference under extreme amounts of stress such as footjams, the larger you are the more you should consider the 36 over the 32. The 32 is actually a noodle in comparison to the 36 now that i think about it.

Do you REALLY use the high and low speed compression adjustments?

yes and no, i set my rebound and compression once when i got the fork (32mm rlc forks) and then never touch it again. I found that with the older 36 models with the rc2 i would change the setting often as the bikes that i usually have a 36 on deal with a wider range of riding conditions.

For the 831, do the dropouts on the fork have compatibility issues with any 15to20mm axle shims?

15mm to 20mm shims?? what are these? are you talking about hub cones like what hadley, king, and hope use? is so then no there is no problem, the 32 forks have a groove in which the hub slides into the fork, so as long as the end of the cones are the right diameter there is no issue.

The questions you should be asking yourself when deciding between a 32 and a 36 is how tough are you on your parts, how heavy are you, and what exact kind of riding are you going to be doing. I like the 32 chassis, its fine for me more then enough on dj's and trails, but i do notice the flex and some while riding street or park and im only 160lbs.

 

[Dirtjumper999]

i want to know when demo or the truth became suspension guru's

I just know they both have experience with fox on dj bikes, and they both ride similar to how I do. They were just two of many I wanted to hear from.

I think I might go for the 36, I heard from a few other people that the 831 has a fair bit of flex on the high stress situations e.g. foot jams and 360s. And in some cases, cracks. I have always been a big fan of RockShox but they don't have the weight I am looking for.

@ ServeEm
I am having it built at a local shop in 3 stages really. First is going to be a non treated frame, to check the clearances and make sure they are how I calculated them. That will take a few weeks of tinkering with the geo, next stage I am going to get a basic frame made and get it heat treated to ride it a bit. Going to basically test the geometry and see how it is. If it is exactly how I want it, I am going to send off the drawings for the headtube, dropouts, bottom bracket, and gussets. Then order the tube-set. So... probably another 8 weeks at least.

 

[demo 9]

For what its worth, in my expierience, the 831 has not flex. I am 220, probalby more than you weigh, i also dont do gnarly foot jams, and when i do, i try to land more on the wheel than into the fork, if that makes any sense. (kinda like a nose manual compared to an endo) I have a 36 Talas, its stiffer, but i wouldnt call the 831 flexy, IMO. You will be fine either way, you may have trouble with the 831 knob if anything. Maybe that will help support the 36, but its true none the less

 

[Tetreault]

if you ride hard the 32 (831) is flexy. I'm currently using mine and like DJ999 said, you defiantly notice is on off from perfect landings (360's) and footjams. I do prefer my 831 to the 36 float i used two seasons ago, but if flex is your main concern the 36 is what you want, if it isnt then the 32 will do just as well

 

[Dirtjumper999]

if you ride hard the 32 (831) is flexy. I'm currently using mine and like DJ999 said, you defiantly notice is on off from perfect landings (360's) and footjams. I do prefer my 831 to the 36 float i used two seasons ago, but if flex is your main concern the 36 is what you want, if it isnt then the 32 will do just as well

On my NS I have an Argyle, I can feel the flex a bit on some high torsion tricks, but not too bad. When I say high torsion, I mean 360 to foot jam, manual to foot jam, things where you are giving the arch very immense amounts of pressure.

Yea Demo, I have seen a lot of stories about the knobs on the 831, I don't think that will be a factor in choosing though, as in the final frame the downtube will curve out from the headtube.

 

[Tetreault]

you may have trouble with the 831 knob if anything. Maybe that will help support the 36, but its true none the less

sadly, this issue is even worse with the new rlc 36's

 

[kidwoo]

How does the fork handle torsional stress from footjams?

Just fine but your boyfriend's wiener gets in the way sometimes.

Footjams? Forget fox and get a razor scooter. Moar trix!

Do you REALLY use the high and low speed compression adjustments?

Nope. Mine are setup so stiff you don't notice anyway.

If you must, give me an in depth personal review on your fox fork, I want to know how they handle abuse.

I bought the two fox 36 forks I have because they're fvcking huge and I can crank the air pressure up to jesus. So they're stiff for steerin and tough for crashin. I've tossed my bike at trees and rocks and I still have a fork I'm not worried about.

It's dirtjumping what else do you need?

Besides to quit stressing about foot jams I mean.

 

[TheTruth]

i want to know when demo or the truth became suspension guru's

Since the day I realized the bed springs had too much rebound when I was banging ya motha!!!

I am just kidding. No insult intended. However, I discovered tight pants and the internet not too long ago. Now look where I am!

 

[Tetreault]

humpin peoples moms after deploying heavy amounts of Roofalin?

 

[demo 9]

humpin peoples moms after deploying heavy amounts of Roofalin?

Zing!

 

[TheTruth]

humpin peoples moms after deploying heavy amounts of Roofalin?

When I offer the roofalin, they deny because they tell me that they would not want to be asleep for the experience.

 

[Dirtjumper999]

Derpa Derp derp derp.

What?