Quantcast

Fox Forx & 8" rotors

Kornphlake

Turbo Monkey
Oct 8, 2002
2,632
1
Portland, OR
I've only seen one picture where it actually happened but you can break off your dropouts doing it. I ran 8" rotors on my fork for about 2 months without problems although I must admit that I felt alot safer once I got those giant rotors onto a fork with a 20mm axle.
 

grimm

Monkey
Jan 12, 2002
390
0
Sweden
Kornphlake said:
I've only seen one picture where it actually happened but you can break off your dropouts doing it. I ran 8" rotors on my fork for about 2 months without problems although I must admit that I felt alot safer once I got those giant rotors onto a fork with a 20mm axle.

just becouse you have only seen one pic doesnt mean it doesnt happen more often, and yes, should only run 8" on a 20mm axle fork unless warranty states otherwise :thumb:
 

cali4niabiker

Monkey
Jun 29, 2004
296
0
ATLANTA, GA
Enduro said:
I was wondering who ever had problems running 8" rotors on pre-2005 Fox forx?

Thanks
8" adaptors (hayes) don't fit. don't do it b/c the fork is not designed for 8"ers (= bushing/dropout problems down the road) :nope:
 

Enduro

Monkey
Jul 3, 2002
159
0
A country with no mountains
On long downhill runs, my arms/hands start to ache. I'm already running a 8" rotor on my Zocchi MX without any problems and only my right hand (rear brake, 6" rotor) hurts down the hill.

You can use the combination of a 6" I.S. -> 6" postmount adapter and 6" postmount -> 8" Postmount adapter to mount an 8" rotor on QR forks.

8" rotors are really nice for heavier riders like me, even if you're just riding trails.
 

Transcend

My Nuts Are Flat
Apr 18, 2002
18,040
3
Towing the party line.
using 2 adapters to mount a caliper just sounds like about the dumbest thing you can do. Darwinism at work to be sure.

Stick with 6" rotors on this fork. If you need more brake then you probably need more fork as well, so upgrade to a 20mm axle.

Also, if you hands are getting sore, check to make sure you dont have really crappy bars, and that the fork is tuned right. I thought I had brake issues and arm pump for 2 years. Turns out Titec bars are just absolute crap.
 

cali4niabiker

Monkey
Jun 29, 2004
296
0
ATLANTA, GA
Enduro said:
On long downhill runs, my arms/hands start to ache. I'm already running a 8" rotor on my Zocchi MX without any problems and only my right hand (rear brake, 6" rotor) hurts down the hill.

You can use the combination of a 6" I.S. -> 6" postmount adapter and 6" postmount -> 8" Postmount adapter to mount an 8" rotor on QR forks.

8" rotors are really nice for heavier riders like me, even if you're just riding trails.
What kind of brakes do you run?

When I use my Hayes Comp brakes with SEMI METALLIC pads on my XC bike (they require some mashing and I get slight arm pump and I don't really need superman brakes). On the other hand, on my DH bike, I have Hayes Purples with SINTERED METALLIC pads and they are extremely sensitive to the touch (all you have to do is tap the brake and you STOP... immediately! hehehe).

There are a couple of things worth trying:
(1) Adjust brake levers up & down. Instructions below:
Sit on the bike as if you are going to ride (normal stance). Place hands on handlebar. Your hands should be in line with your arms. If your hand is kinked up (as if you are on ground doing pushups), LOWER the levers. They are too high. If your hands bend down (as in waving goodbye), RAISE the levers. Keep doing it until your hands are in line with your arms at normal riding position.
(2) Adjust the levers (in and out)
Depending on type of brakes you have, most have an allen wrench socket to adjust the lever away or closer to you. Adjust the levers so that it is about the same length just below first joint of your index finger. You shouldn't be "reaching" for it.
(3) If 1 & 2 doesn't solve the problem, then try harder grips (soft ones give me trouble) in the likes of ODI lock-ons
(4) Nothing works on 1 - 3, check the length of your stem. It is possible that you are "reaching" too far.

Hope this helps.
 

binary visions

The voice of reason
Jun 13, 2002
22,202
1,390
NC
Hmm.. Thread hijack, but how can bars flat out "suck" if they aren't braking regularly? Are you talking about the width/sweep?

"Titec bars suck" is pretty unspecific and I'm just curious if there's something I'm missing out on, as the Titec Ringleader bars are all I've ever had a lot of experience with for FR/DH. I've had them on two bikes and my buddy has had 'em on his 2 bikes that I've ridden quite a bit. They seem pretty solid and I don't have any problems with the shape...
 

Enduro

Monkey
Jul 3, 2002
159
0
A country with no mountains
cali4niabiker said:
(1) Adjust brake levers up & down. Instructions below:
Sit on the bike as if you are going to ride (normal stance). Place hands on handlebar. Your hands should be in line with your arms. If your hand is kinked up (as if you are on ground doing pushups), LOWER the levers. They are too high. If your hands bend down (as in waving goodbye), RAISE the levers. Keep doing it until your hands are in line with your arms at normal riding position.
This could be the problem. I thought I always liked 'em high in descents.

BTW, I'm running '02 Mags with good old sintered-metallic pads...
 

manhattanprjkt83

Rusty Trombone
Jul 10, 2003
9,660
1,237
Nilbog
Transcend said:
using 2 adapters to mount a caliper just sounds like about the dumbest thing you can do. Darwinism at work to be sure.

Stick with 6" rotors on this fork. If you need more brake then you probably need more fork as well, so upgrade to a 20mm axle.

Also, if you hands are getting sore, check to make sure you dont have really crappy bars, and that the fork is tuned right. I thought I had brake issues and arm pump for 2 years. Turns out Titec bars are just absolute crap.
exactly what i was getting at :eviltongu