We actually used the WW tire & Kenda Nevegal as the standard for the minimum clearance with the sliders all in....I can manage a CS length brealy over 16.25". But, of course, this is with some custom configurations and no hope for a front der.
Frame design
- Thread starter Ted Wojcik
- Start date
I was just wondering if with the sliders all the way forward if it would give a 17 inch or under Chainstay length. Reason being is that a 1x8 or 1x9 or 1xsomething drivetrain is a popular route for many folks to take these days.
The total range of slider adjustment on this frame is from approximately 16.85"-17.6". I should have the last of the photos tomorrow night before the frame is painted.
Looking forward to that next batch of photos.
Any New News?
Rumor has it that the frame is heading off to paint!
so.... just "3 more weeks"?
It's off to paint. Here are the last of the photosView attachment 93821
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lookin good!
Thanks for the new photos Ted. Looks sharp!
What's this lug? Derailleur mount of some sort? I've not seen the like before.
Hmmm, the picture is of the knob on the seat tube above the bb. Just in case you don't want to click.
looks perdy cant wait to get one for myself 
what were you thinking for pricing?
what were you thinking for pricing?
It must be to mount the front derailleur I'd guess - but I too hope Ted responds.
I like the downtube cable routing on it.
Wow, what a fantastic thread. I just noticed it. Wish I would have noticed it when it began, as I have a lot of technical information (derailleur clearances, tires sizes/drawings, frame drawings...) that could have helped in the design process.
I noticed that there was a lot of talk on chainstay length. IMO (and especially for me personally as a very tall guy), one of the things I like about 29ers is that the chainstays tend to be longer than 26" wheel bikes. Because my seat is a mile in the air, I tend to sit more over the rear wheel. When climbing, the longer stay aids in keeping the front end down. The front end of a bike comes up when climbing when the rider's body mass is not over the center point of the bike (which changes going either up or down).
Great job on the frame, Ted. I really like your use of the rivet-on cable stops as removable stops. I will bet money (well actually, not real money) that that feature will soon find its way onto a lot of other frames.
Mike
I noticed that there was a lot of talk on chainstay length. IMO (and especially for me personally as a very tall guy), one of the things I like about 29ers is that the chainstays tend to be longer than 26" wheel bikes. Because my seat is a mile in the air, I tend to sit more over the rear wheel. When climbing, the longer stay aids in keeping the front end down. The front end of a bike comes up when climbing when the rider's body mass is not over the center point of the bike (which changes going either up or down).
Great job on the frame, Ted. I really like your use of the rivet-on cable stops as removable stops. I will bet money (well actually, not real money) that that feature will soon find its way onto a lot of other frames.
Mike
Mike - Glad you dig the thread. It is a pretty cool one isn't it?
Just to note - This frame is sort of a way for Ted to test things out a bit and get rider feedback on it.
So some of the information you have that you mention may still come in handy for "future refinements" from this test sled if you will - so feel free to chime in with those thoughts here since I bet many people following the thread (including Ted) might find benefit in hearing your thoughts.
Cheers,
Mark
Those "plates" for the removable cable guides are pretty cool!
The stub you see on the bottom of the seat tube is a boss needed for the Shimano e-type front dérailleur, commonly referred to as a nerblur.
One more advantage of the slider dropouts, adjusting chainstay length for handling reasons. I want to thank everyone for their input, the frame is out for paint and I can't wait to get it together for a ride. Hang in there while waiting and ask me any questions that pop up while we have some time.
One more advantage of the slider dropouts, adjusting chainstay length for handling reasons. I want to thank everyone for their input, the frame is out for paint and I can't wait to get it together for a ride. Hang in there while waiting and ask me any questions that pop up while we have some time.
Oh boy! New techno bike lingo!
So, would the nerblur be used in lieu of the bracket that would clamp to the frame via the BB, or in addition to?
Is it still possible to use a bottom swing clamp on derailleur with the nerblur there?
So, would the nerblur be used in lieu of the bracket that would clamp to the frame via the BB, or in addition to?
Is it still possible to use a bottom swing clamp on derailleur with the nerblur there?
During the design stage, I tried all the Shimano front dérailleurs in my shop and the e-type gave the most room, hence the nurbler. In case you are not familiar with the e-type dérailleur, it is mounted with a plate that goes between the B.B. shell and B.B. cup on the right side of the frame. that plate is stabilized with a screw mount to the nurbler. A traditional clamp on dérailleur certainly could be used by eliminating the nurbler, but there will be requirement for a more rearward position of the drop-out sliders
Also - with that nerblur there - would there be a way that you could design a Ted Wojcik chainstop type of thing for someone who wanted to run a 1x9 set up? Sort of a Ted Wojcik signature thing to keep the chain from falling inward? That'd rock!
Thanks Ted. I had never taken a close look at a bike with an e-type mount. I did indeed wonder how the long flat mount was kept from flexing too much.
Next question; The chainstays look great. Nicely shaped without big divots in the bends. Did you have to do any shaping on those or do you get them in that shape?
Next question; The chainstays look great. Nicely shaped without big divots in the bends. Did you have to do any shaping on those or do you get them in that shape?
What a great idea for a chain keeper. when the frame gets back, we'll see what can be done. the chainstays are as supplied except for some slight indenting in the tire pocket.
Ted,
I think this is the first thing in history designed by committee that looks like it won't end up like this :
Kudos to you for that!
I think this is the first thing in history designed by committee that looks like it won't end up like this :
Kudos to you for that!
Do any of you remember the Edsel? I must admit, I tried to steer this thing in a certain direction.
I'm waiting for the Monkey Butt to come back from powdercoating. The guy I've used for the last three years closed down so it is in the hands of a new shop. Trying to find a shop that wants to do high quality powder work in small quantities is hard, and if they are willing to do it, the costs are very high. The shop I use for liquid finishes is backed up with motorcycle work and is going slow anyway due to the exceptional cold temps we have been having. I'm sure this bike will be passed around, so it needs a very durable finish. I have some nice parts to go on it for the test.
The things that I think are noteworthy, removable cable stops to make single speed use look less like there are things growing on the frame and slider dropouts that allow some adjustment in geometry and easy conversion to single speed use. How well the New England geometry plays out remains to be seen. The project has generated a lot of dialog telling me not everyone is interested in quick handling single track frames. To each his own. I hope to have the frame back next week as well as a bunch of customer frames from the liquid painter. It will be a busy week and I will get it together as time permits.
Pictures will be posted when there is something to show.
I'm waiting for the Monkey Butt to come back from powdercoating. The guy I've used for the last three years closed down so it is in the hands of a new shop. Trying to find a shop that wants to do high quality powder work in small quantities is hard, and if they are willing to do it, the costs are very high. The shop I use for liquid finishes is backed up with motorcycle work and is going slow anyway due to the exceptional cold temps we have been having. I'm sure this bike will be passed around, so it needs a very durable finish. I have some nice parts to go on it for the test.
The things that I think are noteworthy, removable cable stops to make single speed use look less like there are things growing on the frame and slider dropouts that allow some adjustment in geometry and easy conversion to single speed use. How well the New England geometry plays out remains to be seen. The project has generated a lot of dialog telling me not everyone is interested in quick handling single track frames. To each his own. I hope to have the frame back next week as well as a bunch of customer frames from the liquid painter. It will be a busy week and I will get it together as time permits.
Pictures will be posted when there is something to show.
Hehe Ann Rand would be so disappointed.Ted,
I think this is the first thing in history designed by committee that looks like it won't end up like this :
Kudos to you for that!
But on a serious note: The frame looks great Ted. Im pretty excited for the geometry you have going on.
Frame looks great (as always) Ted!
I love the bolt on cable holders. very nice detail!
I love the bolt on cable holders. very nice detail!
Ted - care to share the color or color scheme for the frame's paint job - or are you going to keep that top secret?
Best,
Mark
Best,
Mark
how funky can you get with a powercoat paint job? can you do funky cut in's and multi colors? i'm not too familiar with how powdercoat works. but the frame looks kick ass like all of Ted's frames. mine still looks good even after 10 yrs.
Aztec was designed by committee.
Ted, it's good that you asked opinions and then did what you needed to do. That's not going to please everybody, but this bike isn't meant to please everybody, either. I'm about to build a milder version of my own bike, one that will appeal to a broader range of people and will be more test-ride friendly. A true east-coast bike can be a big shock to someone used to normal 29ers.
Ted, it's good that you asked opinions and then did what you needed to do. That's not going to please everybody, but this bike isn't meant to please everybody, either. I'm about to build a milder version of my own bike, one that will appeal to a broader range of people and will be more test-ride friendly. A true east-coast bike can be a big shock to someone used to normal 29ers.
Feel free to start a thread on that new ByStickel if you'd like to keep us updated through posts and photos. I'd be happy to sticky something like that as I think we all enjoy seeing a frame being produced from start to finished via words and photos.
You can get very funky with powder. Check out Spectrum Powder Works. They are doing amazingly complex schemes.
Maybe... sure y'all aren't going to be a little burned out on east-coast 29ers by then?
Maybe I should document the 29er rigid, independent drive, S&S coupling mountain tandem I have coming up.
You people like trainwrecks? ; )
woah - that's a lot going on Steve.
Cheers,
Mark
Cheers,
Mark
Ted,
You taking the 'Butt to NAHMBS?
You taking the 'Butt to NAHMBS?
The fork in here and I'm just waiting for the wheels from Mavic. It should be done Friday. Full report soon. I won't be at NAHBS
So, I guess this was a different frame from the current 'butt?
