A friend is returning a set of Formula C1s I lent him after both levers failed. The calipers and hoses are okay though. Could teh monkeys suggest me a good set of levers to match them to? Or would it be just a waste of time?
C1 = 2x 22mm slaves and DOT fluid, so you should have plenty of options.A friend is returning a set of Formula C1s I lent him after both levers failed. The calipers and hoses are okay though. Could teh monkeys suggest me a good set of levers to match them to? Or would it be just a waste of time?
I think if you're gentle you can probably undo it without breaking it still. You could also very gently clamp the nut in vice and rotate lever around it. Try it your way first, either way if you work slowly and carefully I doubt you'd have any problems getting it out.My plan is to cut the hose, leaving a length out of the MC, jam that in a vice and unscrew it. think it'll work?
If you cut the hose you could get a 6 point box wrench over it and hold it pretty fully captive. That'll be loads better than using an open end.fuck lads a compression nut on one of my levers has a crack in it. It'll crumble away for sure if I go at it with a spanner. Anyone ever encounter this?
My plan is to cut the hose, leaving a length out of the MC, jam that in a vice and unscrew it. think it'll work?
Have you had any inconsistencies with the MT500?I went for Shimano MT500 levers
I had at the beginning (inconsistent bit point) which might be due to a poor bleeding by myself since they have been ok after a second bleeding during which I swapped the Magura fluid for Bionol. I also noticed last week that after having the bike upside down the lever went to the bar for the first few strokes.Have you had any inconsistencies with the MT500?
Looks very similar. Mine have just Shimano written on themwonder if same as these (very cheap):
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-deore-m6000-disc-brake-lever/rp-prod161608
4 times 17mmAlso do you have slave piston diams for the new Hayes you mentioned?
Probably not as big a deal as TS makes out.4 times 17mm
A bit sad they went for equally sized pistons...
"Free stroke" adjusters are plain dumb because all they do is increase the physical distance the MC piston must travel before it even reaches the timing port (i.e. they can be thought of as "stroke increasers", that's all they are capable of). It's 100% dead weight. This is true for Hope, SRAM, Formula. Shimano's does almost nothing, possibly for the best.i think that fcs yoke was doing sweet fuck all. Are they actually worth using?
As I understood it they put some efforts into the levers to make sure the seal lip of the MC is very close to the timing port as well as probably making the timing port smaller.Do you think they reduced the rollback over past calipers, from your graph comment?
I have tektro aurigas on the hard tail. They aren't bad brakes for a pure entry level brake. New pads and clean rotors and they're ok. They are also mineral oil and comfortable enough. What can I measure to give you an idea of compatibility?@Sandwich
If you can make an exception for a servo-wave lever I'd try them with the M615 deore levers if you can find em new, probably available still. From memory troy was running them with MT5 or MT7 and found that they were possibly a bit better constructed internally than the "higher end" Shimano levers. I'd shoot troy a PM and see what he recommends. I'd say jury's still out on the newer M6000 deore lever but either way I think the end result might be decent, and worst case, a pretty cheap mistake to make.
RE: Tektro lever, hard to guess without knowing which model and ideally the MC size, but could try it and see.
Would need to know the MC piston / bore diameter, probably hard to find without pulling one apart but worth some google-fu just in case. The mechanical lever measurements are easy after that, but need both to give conclusive answer without testing.I have tektro aurigas on the hard tail. They aren't bad brakes for a pure entry level brake. New pads and clean rotors and they're ok. They are also mineral oil and comfortable enough. What can I measure to give you an idea of compatibility? There are also Chinese knockoffs on Amazon I'm tempted to try, just because they are purple
I just read the article, I think it's cool that they at least considered a lot of things that no one other than trickstuff really has. They've got a glide ring on the MC piston, and it sounds like the timing adjustment can be changed internally (?) and potentially allows positive adjustment unlike any other "throw adjust" BS on the market. I wonder if the range can only account for mfg variations, or actually compensate for wear over a few years. The wear that causes the timing to change in any brake is usually at the topout plate mechanism. Usually a ball end wears a conical groove in the topout plate (inside edge), or the plate itself starts wearing into the circlip, or something similar. Theoretically replacing those parts should reset the timing on any brake where parts are available.As I understood it they put some efforts into the levers to make sure the seal lip of the MC is very close to the timing port as well as probably making the timing port smaller.
I mentioned that earlier in this thread. It is indeed not optimal but if Hayes managed to get the rest right (short lever throw, good power, consistency, reliability and ergonomy) I could see myself living with such a flaw. Time will tell!I did notice one thing that sucks on that lever design though - the reservoir sits below the MC bore
NoDo you know what the Stroker Ace had?
If you mean the identical/symmetrical one on the underside (?), it's just because the lever is ambidextrous (so you can have a bleed port accessible from the top whichever way you run the levers). Same as SRAM/Formula have done in past.By the way, do you know the purpose of the second port on the lever? The only thing I can think of is that it would probably help bleeding the lever faster, specially the area between the 2 seals of the MC.
I meant the port labelled C on the picture below. B being the timing port.If you mean the identical/symmetrical one on the underside (?), it's just because the lever is ambidextrous (so you can have a bleed port accessible from the top whichever way you run the levers). Same as SRAM/Formula have done in past.
That port (or equivalent) is present in any open-system brake.I meant the port labelled C on the picture below.
I've been thinking about picking up a pair for $50 just to see what they're made of.I found UDI's next brakeset.
Looks legit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZOOM-M875-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Cycling-Front-Rear-Hydraulic-Disc-Brake-Rotor/292492460013?_trkparms=aid=333200&algo=COMP.MBE&ao=1&asc=53467&meid=7bb13048c423489bbdf67f887f95d8a0&pid=100041&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=192606743638&itm=292492460013&_trksid=p5713.c100041.m2061
"No regulatory function. Do not loose it." Now I want to "loose" it just to see what happens.I've been thinking about picking up a pair for $50 just to see what they're made of.
Sorry I missed it the first time, I think this is important enough that I wouldn't personally run that lever - I find any brake will end up with some air in it at some point (since perfect bleeds are almost impossible and fluid has varying amounts of dissolved air - some of which can separate and rise with time and use). When that happens I think it's important that the air can easily escape the active hydraulic system, as you suggest.I am having second thoughts about the new Hayes brakes, specially about the fact that the reservoir is below the master cylinder... intuitively I would say that any eventual air bubble will have quite some difficulties to escape the MC to the reservoir. Don't you think?
I like the ZOOM brand but I'm holding out for the new brake from RISK.I found UDI's next brakeset.
Looks legit.
ZOOM also makes forks Udi. Hold out for those too. Add a few more pesos to the price of the Zoom brakes and you can get Shimano's entry level hydro brakes.I like the ZOOM brand but I'm holding out for the new brake from RISK.
yeah, I keep my eyes peeled for shimano levers or alternatives. I've honestly been eyeing those chinese tektro knockoffs as replacement levers. As it stands, I might just move the maguras onto my trail bike then I'll want to keep the lightweight leversThat's my backup plan for when I inevitably wreck these flimsy plastic master cylinders at least.
Yup, I have a set of m7000 levers for when/if that happens.That's my backup plan for when I inevitably wreck these flimsy plastic master cylinders at least.
Such a fail when they have pictures of bikes with V-Brakes.
go home china, you're drunk
They do make a HC lever for the MT5 - http://www.magurausa-shop.com/product.htm?pid=218692&cat=11915Mt5 levers have better ergonomics from the start, the manual bolt offers closer reach than the knob in the mt7. All of the fancy lever blades are not compatible with the mt5 lever body however.
The calipers are identical, but the mt7 uses four pads while the mt5 uses 2. The four pads offer more bite and more variety of compounds. To swap, you can simply order a new set from magura, but all of the aftermarket sets require bolts that aren't included.
My suggestion, buy the mt5s, ride them as is for a trail brake, swap out the pads ASAP for a dh brake. Buy the mt7 for a more complete brake from the start
I wrecked hard last weekend, master cylinder is fine, lever not so much. Swapping the lever was pretty quick tho.That's my backup plan for when I inevitably wreck these flimsy plastic master cylinders at least.
I haven't really had that issue with either of my pairs, but I'd be inclined to just do new seals and pistons. The kit is only about $20.@Udi @HAB
sorry for the ping, just looking for a little help on the ROR brakes.
Very much digging them overall, but the inside front piston only moves freely whe. The outside piston is pinned down. I have tried all the usual tricks of cleaning in/lubing it, but no success.
Any suggestions beyond replacing the seal?
Thank you!