Same here with my XT785s. Flip bike over for a minute and it needs the 2 pump rollover afterwards. Cant think of a scientific reason for issues with rear only though.
Sounds good to me, how about lever throw inconsistencies / variations though? How does the total lever throw compare to standard M820s?
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So translated that means you have had the Shimano issue happen with front brake as well?
yes me too, only the rear one.
my brake setup is irrelevant to this thread(i am using Formula t1's and Oro Biancos which both use DOT), but my rear brake is always more finnicky than the front. I think the rear brake are more caused by the longer hose length and more direction change in the hose. does anyone else have a theory on this?
Rear brake with bubbles in the system out of box. Rebleeding several time didn't give any results. So, i've decided to go back to Shimano.
Here come my question.
So, since I am not that good at math
What would be practical result of pairing XT M8000 (or M785) lever with Saint caliper?
From: www.pinkbike.com/u/mikekazimer/blog/first-ride-shimano-deore-xt-m8000.htmlMike Kazimer said:
I missed this one, but no, personally I don't really think this is a common scenario. I have never personally seen an M810, M820, or M640 caliper develop leaking seals, yet these brakes still suffer from the same lever issues that the M785 does (which do develop caliper seal leaks). To me this says that the problem is at the lever. In fact I've seen people replace the levers alone and have the problem go away - I can't say if permanently so, but it's enough to isolate the cause.
That's not an accurate theory, because the uneven pad wear was on the L vs R side of the caliper, not between individual pads on the same side. Joining the pads together would make zero difference in this case - in fact the offending item was an MT5. It may be an isolated issue, but I read a few more cases when I looked up reviews.
Enduro Magazine said:
Yes, the 4-pots are more powerful and result in longer throw due to greater slave piston area. The levers use the same master cylinder diameter (and mechanical leverage curve to my knowledge - if it's different, it's not significant) which is why the M820/M640 brakesets have an excessively long lever throw. My point is that using the M785 lever on the M820 caliper will make no noticeable difference compared to an M820 lever on M820 caliper - however if you have a complete M785 brake set and swap the front caliper for an M820, you'll get increased lever throw on that brake and have a throw mismatch L/R.
Oh, I thought they were wearing from uneven piston movement on each side (have seen that many times in Codes). I have noticed similar behavior with my Louise calipers, one piston is always sticking out a little more than the other, but it is not as extreme difference as in this picture, that you have posted. Sometimes pistons get sticky in magura calipers (tight seals) and it helps to hold the other piston with something and pump the lever few times, to lubricate the sticky one, maybe that is the case.
the only thing I do differently is after installing the bleed cup and hose/syringe to the caliper nipple, I pull the lever as hard as I can and then crack the bleed nip, close nip, release and re-pump lever, crack nip, repeat.
Maybe you misunderstood, if you use a complete M820 on front and complete M785/8000 on rear the result will be the same (throw mismatch L/R). The hydraulic and mechanical leverage of the M820 and M785 levers are similar if not the same, so the throw increase is due to the caliper, there's no need or benefit to purchasing the M820 lever (for you). If you want a throw match you need M820 caliper both ends, or M785/8000 caliper both ends. With that said - you could still try an 820 caliper just on the front, it's possible that it may feel okay, purely because rear brakes can sometimes have longer throws than the front (even though they technically shouldn't) - and the 'longer' front stroke may be closer to a match in practice than in theory.And this is what I feared of
It seems, that it's better to just use different but complete set of M785 (or M8000) on the rear wheel and M820 on the front. Thanx, Udi!
I've found that with the reservoir open (bleed nipple closed), flicking the brake lever tip by compressing it and letting it snap back (under spring force) helps dislodge plenty of stuck air bubbles in the lever. You can watch them pop up in the reservoir (in this case you want the res filled with oil, bladder and cap removed like in the old days).
I will think about it.Maybe you misunderstood, if you use a complete M820 on front and complete M785/8000 on rear the result will be the same (throw mismatch L/R). The hydraulic and mechanical leverage of the M820 and M785 levers are similar if not the same, so the throw increase is due to the caliper, there's no need or benefit to purchasing the M820 lever (for you). If you want a throw match you need M820 caliper both ends, or M785/8000 caliper both ends. With that said - you could still try an 820 caliper just on the front, it's possible that it may feel okay, purely because rear brakes can sometimes have longer throws than the front (even though they technically shouldn't) - and the 'longer' front stroke may be closer to a match in practice than in theory.
If you get a reliable set of Shimano brakes, power is definitely not an issue! Where people have a legitimate gripe, IMO, is in the modulation department.
Does this genius have two brake levers to power the calipers?Solitions:
Yeah that'd be great, no one else is providing it so I'd appreciate that. I assume it's the Tech3 lever.
Thanks for that - I just measured quickly, and not only is it not 10mm, it seems bigger than 11mm even. Are you sure of 11? It looks more like 12mm to me, although that seems a little crazy. I will get the verniers onto it later.
MT5 268.50 g
I'm a bit sleep deprived and stupified after watching a mexican cartoon for work so it may be a stupid question but how does the greater sleve piston area relate to old gustav 2 piston brakes? I remember that while lever was really long the later model lever (plastic, not cast) was really consistent and I'd still run them if not for the weight.
Yep, but it looks like the 9.1 performance pads from MT7s for $17/pair, so I'm going to grab a couple pairs of those too and see what one I like best. Now that I think about it, I'll bet the conjoined pad is where the extra weight comes from.
