Ever tried the knock off versions? I've been tempted by these but no experience yet.
Frankenbrakes and brake improvement discussion
- Thread starter Udi
- Start date
@Udi uses a copy of the original Avid pro kit from AliExpress with great success. There are all kinds of sets, like this one e.g.
de.aliexpress.com
Maybe he has a better link. I think there is even a link in this thread somewhere.
7.49US $ 30% OFF|Universal Fahrrad Hydraulische Scheiben Bremse Bleed Kit BikeTool Kit für shimano & tektro & magura & hayes & formel & sram & avid & riesen & nutt bremse|Fahrradreparaturwerkzeuge| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
de.aliexpress.com
I use that one as well, it has urethane seals in the syringe, which should be safe for dot and mineral oil. But I think it uses Buna-n on the connectors which is definitely safe for mineral oil, but I'm not sure about dot. I've only used mine with dot since my wife's deore brakes haven't needed any maintenance.
I've used the Quaxar branded ones off eBay, they have two sets of syringes, one for DOT and another for mineral oil. They even include several types of fittings, although I ended up using the Formula ones for pretty much everything I serviced, since they are slim enough to avoid interference with the master cylinder's body.
EDIT: this one:
https://www.bike-discount.de/es/comprar/quaxar-universal-bleeding-kit-54297
Then I perma-lent the kit to a friend who got fired from his work and started wrenching and doing bike services at home for a living. He's been using it pretty much daily for over a year, and he hasn't complained so far.
I use the
+1 on these ezmtb branded ones. They are sold by a lot of different shops on aliexpress so any legit one is fine, I bought from this one for example https://www.aliexpress.com/store/3200026?spm=a2g0x.12010608.1000001.12.38b27603WALwOd@Udi uses a copy of the original Avid pro kit from AliExpress with great success. There are all kinds of sets, like this one e.g.
Maybe he has a better link. I think there is even a link in this thread somewhere.7.49US $ 30% OFF|Universal Fahrrad Hydraulische Scheiben Bremse Bleed Kit BikeTool Kit für shimano & tektro & magura & hayes & formel & sram & avid & riesen & nutt bremse|Fahrradreparaturwerkzeuge| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
Follow up questions if anyone can help?
1. Bought one of the bleed kits for my Ones and now this happened... The knurled fitting is too short for the FCS and fouls it. I see this is a semi common problem as the link below shows. Aside from buying a "slim bleed adaptor" (painful, having to import from UK to Australia) or filing down the adaptor, has anyone else solved this issue?
2. Also, considering these are DOT 4 brakes, is the best grease to redo sticky pistons still PFPAE (perfluoropolyalkylether) grease (from another great RM thread, with thanks to @Udi)?
Thanks team!
Using Avid/SRAM bleed syringes with my RO's I have to wind the FCS out a few turns to be able to thread the syringe to the lever. Not sure if that will work with yours as the fitting looks slightly fatter...
Yeah, the FCS is so fat that no matter where it is (wound in or out) it gets in the way of the knurled fitting.
I binned the FCS since I noticed no benefits from it and afterwards I got a more solid lever feel and better bleed - although I suspect mine was leaky.
Otherwise yeah chucking it in a lathe or drill and filing it down should do the job.
PFPE is the good stuff. Formula supplies little 3 gram tubes of it with some of their service kits I think Kluber is what they rebrand in particular.
It can be annoying as hell to get the seals in with the one piece caliper but it does make a difference and pretty much the main thing that needs love on formulas
Is PFPE better than PFPAE?
Ive never tried using krytox
But iv been using red rubber grease on all brake seals lately. Designed just to lube epdm.
I thought they were the same thing just name abbreviated different. Turns out one is perfluoropolyalkylether and the other is Perfluoropolyether
They both sound like blowing a raspberry to me
They both sound like they make Mark Ruffalo really sad...
Edit: In brake news, FYI, I got my rear TRP Slate which is not, it seems, a "G-Code" model, and I like it better than the G-code I have up front. Prefer the traditional set screw for reach rather than the big-hokey knob on the g-code and the lever blade is less bulky and slightly more shimano-like. If I find a blade for the front I'll be swapping it out, but the difference is ultimately pretty minor.
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I decided to put an 8" rotor out back for kicks. I wasn't 100% sure if I had the right adapter, and I couldn't get the damned caliper aligned with the mystery adapter I'd found in my parts bin... So I cannibalized the other adapter I had off the carcass of my DH bike... That one worked, but then as I was making sure all 4 pistons were moving equally, I managed to blast of of them clean out of the caliper.
(pro tip: don't do that)
So, this turned into a major bleed effort tonight.
Other than yanking the rubber seal off the caliper syringe requiring a total repeat of the process, it went quite well.
Brake feels awesome. I need to set up a new caliper syringe...
Bonus: I will be less stupid next time I embark on the exercise.
Maguras. Semi-idiot proof. Still sold a year later.
(pro tip: don't do that)
So, this turned into a major bleed effort tonight.
Other than yanking the rubber seal off the caliper syringe requiring a total repeat of the process, it went quite well.
Brake feels awesome. I need to set up a new caliper syringe...
Bonus: I will be less stupid next time I embark on the exercise.
Maguras. Semi-idiot proof. Still sold a year later.
Do the pads rock very slightly on your MT7's?
Fitted a pair to my DH bike and wife's DH bike yesterday and standing still to check headset play they both seem to rock slightly. Hers not as much as the new front rotor must be slightly warped as it gets stuck...
Need to resolve her front rotor issue and cut/bleed all four brakes still.
my shimanos do, it's pretty fucking annoying. Not sure if the maggies do
Update....
1. Ground down one of the fittings for the bleed kit using the "poor man's lathe" (aka put the fitting into a drill, put the drill into a vice, zip tie the trigger and use the power point to turn the "lathe" on and off while you file away).
2. Rebuilt the front caliper with the Extreme Fluoro Grease
3. Bleed brakes properly.
4. Profit/ride bike properly. Whichever you see fit.
Thanks everyone for your input.
1. Ground down one of the fittings for the bleed kit using the "poor man's lathe" (aka put the fitting into a drill, put the drill into a vice, zip tie the trigger and use the power point to turn the "lathe" on and off while you file away).
2. Rebuilt the front caliper with the Extreme Fluoro Grease
3. Bleed brakes properly.
4. Profit/ride bike properly. Whichever you see fit.
Thanks everyone for your input.
YES! Been using this method on some motorcycle parts myself...usually with a counter-rotating dremel tool and a carbide bit or flap wheel.
Pretty big pad rock on mine too. With them being on my trials bike, and the massive sudden wheel lockups they see in this application, the rocking makes for a very loud snapping noise too. It does get better/quieter when the pistons wear into the pads a bit.
This is a good material on brakes, very informative for noobs like myself. Bit of a roadie view on the topic, still worth checking it out! https://cyclingtips.com/2020/02/nerd-alert-podcast-how-to-make-the-perfect-disc-brake/
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merlin has a good deal on magura brakes right now, if you're after MT5s, MT Trails, or 220mm rotors...
Disc Brake - Sets
Buy Mountain Bike Parts products online at Bike-Discount Bike Shop: Bike ➤Bike Parts ➤Mountain Bike Parts ➤Brakes ➤Disc Brake - Sets ✓ BEST PRICE - Fast Delivery!
www.bike-discount.de
This seems be the best deal on most Magura's.
If you want the Trails Jenson has a killer price of $299 for the set.
Question for the brake improvement-quest Monkeys:
Can you pair organic brake pads with a rotor that has previously only used sintered pads?
I want to put these pads:
www.bike-components.de
on my current, sintered pad, rotor.
Thanks!
Can you pair organic brake pads with a rotor that has previously only used sintered pads?
I want to put these pads:
Trickstuff Disc POWER Brake Pads for Formula
The POWER is an organic brake pad. Organic pads have the great advantage of being a thermal insulator, which protects the seals in the caliper from overheating. Specifications: Brake Pad Compound: organic Backing Plate Material: steel Cooling Fins: n
www.bike-components.de
Thanks!
Yes.Question for the brake improvement-quest Monkeys:
Can you pair organic brake pads with a rotor that has previously only used sintered pads?
I want to put these pads:
on my current, sintered pad, rotor.Trickstuff Disc POWER Brake Pads for Formula
The POWER is an organic brake pad. Organic pads have the great advantage of being a thermal insulator, which protects the seals in the caliper from overheating. Specifications: Brake Pad Compound: organic Backing Plate Material: steel Cooling Fins: n
Thanks!
Like @johnbryanpeters said, yes, no problems. Did the exact same thing. Be warned though, the Power pad is their race orientated pad, which prioritizes the last bit of power over wear and for me tends to produce some slip stick effects on steep slow trails. The standard pads are not far behind in terms of power, last a good bit longer while being better than all the other organic pads out there. This is confirmed by Trickstuff in various posts on the biggest German bike forum.Question for the brake improvement-quest Monkeys:
Can you pair organic brake pads with a rotor that has previously only used sintered pads?
I want to put these pads:
on my current, sintered pad, rotor.Trickstuff Disc POWER Brake Pads for Formula
The POWER is an organic brake pad. Organic pads have the great advantage of being a thermal insulator, which protects the seals in the caliper from overheating. Specifications: Brake Pad Compound: organic Backing Plate Material: steel Cooling Fins: n
Thanks!
Generally for organic pads it's better to have rotors with smaller holes in them whereas for sintered pads bigger holes are preferable. See the explanation in their Know How article regarding glazing of pads.
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Interesting. From that article it seems when switching it's more about taking care of the pads for the first bit, rather than worrying about stuff that's embedded in the rotor. So switch between with due care? No need for sanding or iso-propyl alcohol on the rotor?
The back story is I took the hardtail on some pretty steep techy stuff. I was getting pump up (I assume fluid expanding under constant use) and the pads were weak. My plan was to get some Powerpads to deal with both issues (insulated and more power). I might consider the general Trickstuff pads though, in light of what's been said.
In the interest of science, I've also got some finned uberbike pads coming (race matrix compound), so I can compare and contrast.
Brakes are Formula The Ones, fwiw.
As long as the rotors aren't contaminated with oils or brake fluid it's a none issue. But it does no harm to sand them down a bit and clean with alcohol.
If you're considering finned pads you could also give Shimano L04C a try, finned sintered pads for their Ultegra disc brakes that fit the later dual piston brakes like R0, T1, R1 etc.. Worked quite well for me in the R0Rs, but Trickstuff have more power and were also quite stable.
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I've been following these guys on insta for a little bit:
Looks interesting and one of the first non frame applications of 3d printed metal components...
Pistons are 15/16mm unlike the hefty 18mm Cura4's I'm currently on but looks like they could offer some benefits over a traditional manufactured caliper.
Some of the drawbacks are surface will be rough and potentially gather grime, not sure on implications of this internally for fluid flow - however being 3D printed it could be designed for super easy bleeds.
Discuss...
Looks interesting and one of the first non frame applications of 3d printed metal components...
Pistons are 15/16mm unlike the hefty 18mm Cura4's I'm currently on but looks like they could offer some benefits over a traditional manufactured caliper.
Some of the drawbacks are surface will be rough and potentially gather grime, not sure on implications of this internally for fluid flow - however being 3D printed it could be designed for super easy bleeds.
Discuss...
Pad material does not embed itself in rotors.
Doesn't bedding in of pads involve transfer of pad material to the rotor?
It does indeed.
Not to any meaningful extent.
Support, plz.
Looks nice... not sure whether the mounts are burly enough. Doesn't it look like the whole thing would snap off the frame/fork under hard braking?I've been following these guys on insta for a little bit:
Looks interesting and one of the first non frame applications of 3d printed metal components...
Pistons are 15/16mm unlike the hefty 18mm Cura4's I'm currently on but looks like they could offer some benefits over a traditional manufactured caliper.
Some of the drawbacks are surface will be rough and potentially gather grime, not sure on implications of this internally for fluid flow - however being 3D printed it could be designed for super easy bleeds.
Discuss...