Quantcast

Frankenbrakes and brake improvement discussion

  • Come enter the Ridemonkey Secret Santa!

    We're kicking off the 2024 Secret Santa! Exchange gifts with other monkeys - from beer and snacks, to bike gear, to custom machined holiday decorations and tools by our more talented members, there's something for everyone.

    Click here for details and to learn how to participate.

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
Dafuq is up with using Shimano MC's for frankenbrakes?
IME a shimano MC has a 1 year life before it's kaputz.
Correct. Given that somehow this hasn't already been made infinitely clear:
The problem with Shimano brakes isn't just the caliper or just the lever. It's BOTH.
I don't know. I bought cura 4s for 105 quid per end. That's pretty affordable.
Documented issues in this thread already - from memory the MC capacity is too small for the caliper and will run out of fluid before the pads fully wear. Otherwise a good brake I believe, I've liked the ones I've ridden. I'm interested to hear if this issue has been addressed.
Can someone here who likes the marshy/gravity bleed convince me that it's not a stupid idea?
Seems rather counter intuitive
Find stupid idea, use logic to explain why said idea is stupid, then ask people to convince you otherwise.
Seems rather counter intuitive.
 

Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
2,074
1,442
SWE
The possible positive thing with the marshy bleed on shimano caliper is that it lubricates the seals with reference to the quote from PB where the ceramic pistons are too rough to "allegedly" allow the seal to glide when needed.
 

Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
2,074
1,442
SWE
Anyone knows what bleed kit is compatible with Hayes Dominion? I have Avid/Sram and Formula at home. Would that be OK?
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
88,888
27,079
media blackout
also, i've been wondering if using high frequency vibrations (akin to an ultrasonic parts cleaner) pressed against a brake caliper would free any air pockets to help them better escape the system
 

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!
also, i've been wondering if using high frequency vibrations (akin to an ultrasonic parts cleaner) pressed against a brake caliper would free any air pockets to help them better escape the system
I asked around down here, a friend of a friend of a friend recommended these:

 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
88,888
27,079
media blackout

Bikael Molton

goofy for life
Jun 9, 2003
4,088
1,235
El Lay
This thread is great for preventing me from spending money on any brakes on offer. I was close on Cura4s and Maguras, but the lever issues, especially on the plastic maguras, seem ridiculous.

I'm just going to bleed the Codes again and deal with it... at least the MC is made of metal and has survived impacts that scratched and gouged it to hell. That seems like a basic requirement for a mountain bike brake.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
Regarding the Maguras, down here they have a bad reputation among shop mechanics because they tend to leak oil through the pressure equalization port in the handlebar clamp if you go too hard on the pressure when bleeding them. Has anyone here experienced this?
Not specific to Magura, but that's not abnormal in most brakes. When bleeding any open system brake, if the lever is in the neutral position, the timing port is open and thus the MC piston pressure seal is inactive. If you pressurise the system in this state, the pressure is instead on the bladder / compensation seal - which is often designed to leak fluid under excess pressure. Maybe it happens a little easier on Magura.

It's worth noting that the same applies for vacuum (on avid-style bleeder equipped brakes, eg. Formula / SRAM / TS), if you syringe-pull too hard while the lever is released you can very easily draw air in through the reservoir seal and think you are pulling air from the system when instead you're just adding it. You can improve the situation in this vacuum case by holding the lever closed (allows a little more vacuum pressure to draw out bubbles) but it's still limited, as the MC directional pressure seal is being loaded in reverse, and thus will still pull air through the reservoir at a much lower pressure than the system's functional max pressure.

As a general comment, I think people bleed brakes excessively to temporarily fix problems which are actually caused by a combo of design flaws and premature system wear.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,184
10,716
AK
Yeah, if its that hard or complicated to get a “good bleed”, then the system and therefore brake, sucks.
 

jeremy_2640

Monkey
Oct 4, 2007
114
42
Melbourne
Correct. Given that somehow this hasn't already been made infinitely clear:
The problem with Shimano brakes isn't just the caliper or just the lever. It's BOTH.

Documented issues in this thread already - from memory the MC capacity is too small for the caliper and will run out of fluid before the pads fully wear. Otherwise a good brake I believe, I've liked the ones I've ridden. I'm interested to hear if this issue has been addressed.

Find stupid idea, use logic to explain why said idea is stupid, then ask people to convince you otherwise.
Seems rather counter intuitive.
@twodogsfighting

I'm almost two years into Cura4's and have had a positive experience.

Pro's
- Oddles of power
- Nice lever feel
- Easy enough to bleed
- Mineral Oil

Con's
- Top up MC halfway through pad wear (small MC resi)
- If I travel with my bike in vertical position can take a couple of pumps of brake to bring back to normal feel (small MC resi?)
- Wore out lever pivot bushings (replaced easy enough)
- Pad availability (bought a whole bunch at one time to reduce cost, pad availability is definitely better than when I first got them)

Overall I'm happy with them and would purchase them again.
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,735
1,247
NORCAL is the hizzle
Fed up with the high maintenance of Codes as well as recent terrifying experiences of lever going to the bar, I made the highly questionable decision to give a set of 4-piston SLX brakes a shot instead. (Downgrade?) Got 'em cheap and easy so I figured what the heck. After a couple of rides I'm digging the feel. I'm one of those people who rode shimano brakes forever, even after SRAM 1X came out. My last couple of bikes came with SRAM brakes so I lived with them, but I'm happy to be back on Shimano. I haven't been able to hit any longer/steeper descents to really test them yet, but no wandering bite point so far. Fingers crossed that I don't die...

Interesting that they don't include a bit point adjustment screw with SLX, there's just a plastic dummy screw in its place. I hear you can just add a grub screw for an easy upgrade and may give that a shot to see if it does anything.

If these end up sucking I'm gonna need to pivot to something like TRP or Trickstuff unless maybe new Saints actually materialize and seem promising.
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
17,271
14,738
Fed up with the high maintenance of Codes as well as recent terrifying experiences of lever going to the bar, I made the highly questionable decision to give a set of 4-piston SLX brakes a shot instead. (Downgrade?) Got 'em cheap and easy so I figured what the heck. After a couple of rides I'm digging the feel. I'm one of those people who rode shimano brakes forever, even after SRAM 1X came out. My last couple of bikes came with SRAM brakes so I lived with them, but I'm happy to be back on Shimano. I haven't been able to hit any longer/steeper descents to really test them yet, but no wandering bite point so far. Fingers crossed that I don't die...

Interesting that they don't include a bit point adjustment screw with SLX, there's just a plastic dummy screw in its place. I hear you can just add a grub screw for an easy upgrade and may give that a shot to see if it does anything.

If these end up sucking I'm gonna need to pivot to something like TRP or Trickstuff unless maybe new Saints actually materialize and seem promising.
Trickstuff have got some cheap brakes coming out :D

 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
56,042
22,064
Sleazattle
also, i've been wondering if using high frequency vibrations (akin to an ultrasonic parts cleaner) pressed against a brake caliper would free any air pockets to help them better escape the system

Time to bust out the ultrasonic fanny hammer and find out
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
56,042
22,064
Sleazattle
Just in time for 2022.

Seriously though, I haven't. But I've been tempted to and charge you like $400 markup just to have them right away once I take delivery. Because you're so impatient
I may have ordered a bike on a whim knowing that once I got it I could easily resell it at little to no loss. Hell could probably make money, but wouldn't try.
 

Cummo

Chimp
May 29, 2021
4
2
Hi Guys, Please excuse me for dropping in here on a scintillating conversation that Trick Stuff may have stock and it may even be cheap but i suffered a bit of a head banger last week and I have searched high and low for an answer which isn't coming. Maybe your guys could please help.

I have a new set of MT7 Racelines, I crashed after about 3 hours of use and the lever went to the bar. After much headache ( read bleed, bleed again) I decided it must be a problem in the MC so i pulled it apart.. Sure enough the 10.5mm Master Cylinder main seal sheared right through, resulting in a sealed system with no lever pressure.

I mailed Magura and prayed, sure enough they came back an said it wasn't a warranty as the system isn't leaking and they don't sell rebuild kits, so its a 100EUR lever to fix a 1 dollar seal.

Would anyone know if there a possibility to source just the seal anywhere, I searched and searched but cannot find anything. I found a number of piston kits but i cant be sure the seal lip is correct or dimensions are the same.

Apologies again if its been answered, which would be awesome.

Thanks.
 

Attachments

Last edited: