Frankenbrakes and brake improvement discussion
- Thread starter Udi
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At around the 07:00 minute mark, I think it's Joe Breeden [sp?] on the NS Fuzz discussing his preference for Direttissima lever with Maxima caliper over Maxima-Maxima... interesting to note that the Direttissima has more initial bite and the Maxima more modulation. He says it's down to the leverage ratio of the caliper.
@Udi mentioned something about that when the Maxima came out. I don’t remember the specifics though.
Without having watched the video and consulting the master sheet I think it's because of the fact that the Maxxima-Maxxima combo has an even higher hydraulic leverage than the DRT and therefore softer feel at the lever. That's why they sell it only with Goodrige lines.
^I need those rotors in my life. I'm a self proclaimed rotor nerd, and those are sweet.
Honestly cool to see them looking at rotors rather than just adding moar pistons.
Honestly cool to see them looking at rotors rather than just adding moar pistons.
What in the heck is that? 8 pistons?
Zero clue, PB posted it on Instagram. Whatever it is, we should kill it before it breeds
If you put it on the front, you'd need at least....53mm stanchions and a 3" steerer.
I'll stray from the modding and lead time conversation for a quick review of these TRP DHR Evos.
I have 5 rides on these now & I'm a huge fan so far. All rides about 1200-1500' fast, sustained descents.
I'm running them with stock brake pads and 180 rotors on my trail bike. Lines were easy to trim to size, and super easy to bleed. Bleed fitting is larger than anything I had on hand for shimano or formula. If you buy them grab a bleed kit.
Simple and clean 4 piston caliper design and a nice lever. Rotors are 2.3mm thick and nothing revolutionary.
Lever "feel" is excellent. Split perch clamps have zero flex.
I like to run my levers close to the bars, pictures show the adjustment all the way in where I like them, there's about 10mm throw between open and engaged. If you like the hooks of your levers closer than 45 mm these may not work for you.
There's enough adjustment to crank them out a full inch I'd bet for riders with larger hands. Tool free adjusters too. The short throw is nice, and modulation is excellent. These stock pads are interesting too. They are advertised as resin pads but they feel like a metal pad. I'm not really a break dragger but I sensed no fade on the few rides I've had.
I'd rate power = the 820 saints they replace with moar better modulation. I also have a pair on my downhill bike with 8" rotors.
All old brakes are for sale. If these don't suffer from random bite point or some other long term issues these are absolute winners.
I have 5 rides on these now & I'm a huge fan so far. All rides about 1200-1500' fast, sustained descents.
I'm running them with stock brake pads and 180 rotors on my trail bike. Lines were easy to trim to size, and super easy to bleed. Bleed fitting is larger than anything I had on hand for shimano or formula. If you buy them grab a bleed kit.
Simple and clean 4 piston caliper design and a nice lever. Rotors are 2.3mm thick and nothing revolutionary.
Lever "feel" is excellent. Split perch clamps have zero flex.
I like to run my levers close to the bars, pictures show the adjustment all the way in where I like them, there's about 10mm throw between open and engaged. If you like the hooks of your levers closer than 45 mm these may not work for you.
There's enough adjustment to crank them out a full inch I'd bet for riders with larger hands. Tool free adjusters too. The short throw is nice, and modulation is excellent. These stock pads are interesting too. They are advertised as resin pads but they feel like a metal pad. I'm not really a break dragger but I sensed no fade on the few rides I've had.
I'd rate power = the 820 saints they replace with moar better modulation. I also have a pair on my downhill bike with 8" rotors.
All old brakes are for sale. If these don't suffer from random bite point or some other long term issues these are absolute winners.
Interesting. I've had good results with reliability on the Slate, and really like the lever feel, but they're nowhere close to DH worthy power. Very solid trail bike brake (especially considering the price) but not more than that.
And re: those organic pads "feeling like metal" get them wet and get back to me.
And re: those organic pads "feeling like metal" get them wet and get back to me.
Their trail/xc brake isn't as powerful as a DH brake? Disappointing.Interesting. I've had good results with reliability on the Slate, and really like the lever feel, but they're nowhere close to DH worthy power. Very solid trail bike brake (especially considering the price) but not more than that.
And re: those organic pads "feeling like metal" get them wet and get back to me.
Yeah yeah. But they're not as powerful as, say, XT 4 pots, or even Guides.
power- both tons
lever- I prefer TRP
modulation- too early to tell, the Curas are great as are these Evos
setup- TRP, my Cura are a pain to bleed
general- if for nothing more than the setup I'd take TRP. much easier to get dialed, no rubbing (although I had better results with my Curas and icetech rotors, slightly thinner?)
How do Curas and these TRPs compare to the lever feel of Shimano?
One reason I like my shimano brakes (when they work, aren't leaking or making me shit my pants), is that the levers feel solid. Hard to explain, but I like how it feels almost as if the levers/pads slam into the rotor and give some feedback. Compared to the Codes on my girlfriend's bike, which have felt spongy since new.
My Cura2s have a very solid lever bite feel. More "direct" feeling than Shimano because Formula doesn't have Servowave.
I also prefer the "slam" effect to sponge aka "modulation."
I also prefer the "slam" effect to sponge aka "modulation."
Been trying to get my hands on a set for a while now, just haven't made it happen yet.
OK, Shimano brake question. I noticed a week or two ago that there was a tiny bit of mineral oil weeping out of the end of the rubber reservoir when I applied the brake lever. I assumed it was pooched, as those aren’t repairable, so I ordered a new right brake. Just for fun while waiting for the new brake to arrive, I bled it, and took it down a blistering, rocky trail. It seemed to work perfectly…and this baffles me, as it is losing a teeny bit of oil (seemingly) with every lever pull.
Any observations?
I am still going to replace it, but just curious. The last time I over pressurized the reservoir and it weeped oil, it was toast.
Any observations?
I am still going to replace it, but just curious. The last time I over pressurized the reservoir and it weeped oil, it was toast.
I think it was due to this thread, but I went and purchased some metallic pads from Trucker Co. for my MT5's.
Utter absolute garbage brake pads. Had them installed for a single ride and did my first DH race practice in years today. They glazed instantly. Thankfully I was able to get some Magura race pads at the resort.
I'm aware that glazing is a risk with Metallic pads, but I've never had a pad fail pretty much instantly like these did.
Anyway, thought it wise to share my experience.
Utter absolute garbage brake pads. Had them installed for a single ride and did my first DH race practice in years today. They glazed instantly. Thankfully I was able to get some Magura race pads at the resort.
I'm aware that glazing is a risk with Metallic pads, but I've never had a pad fail pretty much instantly like these did.
Anyway, thought it wise to share my experience.
So, a while back I posted about black fluid in the Magura MT5 levers. Have been flushing the system every 5-6 months since then, and every time the fluid in and near the lever is black. They're on my trials bike, so they do see a very high amount of action, way more than with regular MTBing. But still, excessive lever piston wear or what? Any solid brakes out there that have anodized lever pistons that don't wear that much?
I have done a lot of service to magura brakes and I have seen discolored royal blood, but it was still blue dark maybe but I wouldn’t call it black like old grey metallic Shimano fluid. It could be an indicator of another problem.
Pro-tip: if you mix Royal blood with Shimano fluid, you get color that matches anodized purple parts so well.
Dayummm, my trials bike has purple parts all over! Tip of the week! Now I especially need a lever that doesn't turn it black
Mine is definitely dirty grey black like old Shimano fluid. Only near the lever, so it can only be from master cylinder wear. How are the Cura levers, are their master cylinders anodized?
Or maybe time for Trickstuff levers after all, though I would hate to crash on those and scrape them on concrete!
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Have we discussed these babies yet? Looks like a made in ‘Murcia brake is on the horizon
PNW components
PNW components
I already got Imperial brakes.