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Frankenbrakes and brake improvement discussion

slimshady

¡Mira, una ardilla!

Balgaroth

Chimp
Oct 22, 2021
43
28
Alsace (FR)
Good question, maybe the stagered piston arrangement gives more modulation as one set is supposed to move out first and then the second set vs all 4 at the same time ? I might be wrong but I remember ready such argument for staggered pistons in some brake review, was it marketing bs ? Possibly, I don't have the knowledge to confirm or deny that theory.
 

Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
1,517
834
SWE
According to trickstuff, the staggered piston is for applying a more even pressure on the pads. From there intagram:
Screenshot_20220612-132505_Instagram.jpg


I cannot say if the decrease in performance caused by uneven wear is such during a 3 to 4 minutes long WC run that it motivates a different caliper with staggered pistons. Especially considering the track record of Shimano's caliper...
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
600
600
I've got a brake question. I've noticed that recently on my brakes (Code RSCs, 200mm HS2 rotors, MTX Gold pads), that after a typical descent where I'm on the brakes a lot, I have to move the rear brake's contact point adjust out 1-2 clicks. It started a few months back, where this would happen every few rides, and it's getting to the point where I find myself doing this nearly every ride. I just bled the brakes last month and while they felt a bit fresher after, it didn't really make the problem go away. What's the most likely culprit - needing new pads? I admit I haven't checked the thickness - just eyeballed them and it seems to have enough material left. They're not making any noise or smell, and the rotors are brown not blue. When I bled them, I checked the piston movement and it seemed good. I haven't noticed any signs of fluid loss (oily grime accumulation on the MC or caliper).

My "typical descent" is a trail that starts out flowy and moderate grade where you're on and off the brakes, then gets into a faster steeper section where you're on the brakes most of the time, only letting off in short spurts. It's about 2 minutes long, 575 ft descent. When I brake, I always pull both at the same time, just varying relative front/rear pressure for control.
 

Leafy

Monkey
Sep 13, 2019
190
144
Did you just bleed or did you flush out all the old fluid? This sounds like you're boiling the fluid, it's just kind of surprising that it's happening so easy.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
600
600
Did you just bleed or did you flush out all the old fluid? This sounds like you're boiling the fluid, it's just kind of surprising that it's happening so easy.
Just bled (top & bottom syringes, whatever the standard amount of fluid SRAM recommends). The fluid wasn't particularly gross looking, a little dark, 1 or 2 flecks of black gunk.
 

appltn

fastest banhammer in the west
Apr 19, 2022
5
13
trickstuff has announced an upgraded caliper model (c42), but no website updates.

:wait:
My Direttissimas which arrived about six weeks ago came with the C42 calliper but no mention of it in their online docs - the bolt to open the bleed port had me confused for a few minutes of pushing on the bleed syringe and nothing happening :doh:
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
77,718
17,922
media blackout
My Direttissimas which arrived about six weeks ago came with the C42 calliper but no mention of it in their online docs - the bolt to open the bleed port had me confused for a few minutes of pushing on the bleed syringe and nothing happening :doh:
yea apparently they made the changeover earlier this year and stopped making the c41 iteration. sounds like all orders since early this year have been fulfilled with c42, and all open/pending orders will be too, with no upcharge
 
Feb 21, 2020
394
565
SoCo Western Slope
I finally got a real day of riding the TRP DH-R EVO's, and went until my hands were blistered and bloody. Conditions were the best I have ever had with a lift, dark dirt all day long.

0702221224a_HDR.jpg



0702221502a.jpg



The brakes were for the most part great; excellent modulation, no noise, tons of power, very consistent. I for sure don't need the 220 rotors, 200 would be more than enough.

The only issue is lever position, as in how close I can get it to the bar. It is dialed all the way in and still much too far out.

They are bled to perfection, and I was hoping a break in ride would somehow get some more travel out of them, but they remained at the exact same spot.

Back in the dark days of Hayes, we would push the pads in and then put business cards between pads/rotor when setting them and this would yield some more throw.
These also have the 2.3mm rotors, so I could put some standard width ones in there as well.

Anyone have any insight into these brakes in particular or how to get the levers closer to the bar?
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,414
1,787
Seattle
Anything you do to try to make the throw longer by messing with the hydraulics is going to be very temporary. Narrower rotor won't do it either.

If you can find a pair of the lever pushrods (the bit that the reach adjust knob attaches to) out of the Slate T4, those are shorter and bring the lever in closer.
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
4,286
2,938
Australia
Anyone have any insight into these brakes in particular or how to get the levers closer to the bar?
Are you trying to increase the throw and just move the bite point closer or do you want both the released and locked postions closer to the bar.

In the dark old Shimano days we used to brace the lever at the pivot point and physically bend the levers slightly to get the position correct. That may be an option if the levers aren't carbon and look flimsy enough. Just be gentle doing it
 

Cerberus75

Monkey
Feb 18, 2017
483
185
Are you trying to increase the throw and just move the bite point closer or do you want both the released and locked postions closer to the bar.

In the dark old Shimano days we used to brace the lever at the pivot point and physically bend the levers slightly to get the position correct. That may be an option if the levers aren't carbon and look flimsy enough. Just be gentle doing it
Yeah 2 closed crecent wrenches and be gentle. If not carbon or magnesium.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
600
600
Any issue using SRAM mount fittings (PM front, IS rear) with Dominions? And the 2.0mm HS2 rotors with them?

I just ordered a set of the sexy black Dominion A4s from ze Germans. At 320 Euros shipped it was hard to say no.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,414
1,787
Seattle
Any issue using SRAM mount fittings (PM front, IS rear) with Dominions? And the 2.0mm HS2 rotors with them?

I just ordered a set of the sexy black Dominion A4s from ze Germans. At 320 Euros shipped it was hard to say no.
The Dominion calipers are pretty bulky, they don't work with every adapter out there. What sizes are we talking?

Can't see why the rotors wouldn't work, Galfer 2.0mm ones are good.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
600
600
The Dominion calipers are pretty bulky, they don't work with every adapter out there. What sizes are we talking?

Can't see why the rotors wouldn't work, Galfer 2.0mm ones are good.
The 20mm post mount (180mm fork to 200mm rotor) and 200mm IS rear. I thought I remembered hearing that there were some clearance issues. Hayes doesn't even make 200mm adapters (just 203mm) so if I can't use the SRAM adapters I'll have to get new rotors too.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,414
1,787
Seattle
The 20mm post mount (180mm fork to 200mm rotor) and 200mm IS rear. I thought I remembered hearing that there were some clearance issues. Hayes doesn't even make 200mm adapters (just 203mm) so if I can't use the SRAM adapters I'll have to get new rotors too.
If it's the current style +20 front adapter with the bridge connecting the two mounts it won't work. I don't have the rear mount handy but I bet it's okay, there's a ton of room in there.

Galfer's +20 adapter does work if you want to go that route instead of getting new rotors.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
600
600
Thanks guys. I checked with a buddy who owns Dominions, and he said that the Hope PM adapter works. The SRAM IS rear looks like it will work. I'll track down a Galfer or Hope adapter for the front.
 

Inclag

Turbo Monkey
Sep 9, 2001
2,660
346
MA
What's the word on 220mm or 223mm rotors? I read that the SRAM Centerlines are 2.0 thick. Will other brands offer much of a performance upgrade? Anyone have an opportunity to mess around with various brands and have any opinions?
 

Flo33

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2015
1,678
938
Styria
What's the word on 220mm or 223mm rotors? I read that the SRAM Centerlines are 2.0 thick. Will other brands offer much of a performance upgrade? Anyone have an opportunity to mess around with various brands and have any opinions?
The 220 mm Formula Monolitic one-piece has been flawless for me. No warping, no strange noises, no fading. I'm weighing very un-american 68.5 kg though.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
600
600
I'm not sad that I missed on those ordering A4s a week ago - would rather have tool-free reach adjust than carbon levers. And I already have Ti bolts for caliper mounts. I'll need to look and see if their clamp screws are anything unique, or if I can order those direct from Hayes.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
15,387
6,757
AK
What's the word on 220mm or 223mm rotors? I read that the SRAM Centerlines are 2.0 thick. Will other brands offer much of a performance upgrade? Anyone have an opportunity to mess around with various brands and have any opinions?
I’m going to stick the 2.3 TRP on tonight to replace my kinda warped Magura 2.0. The magura lasted around 2 seasons before picking up some warpage, it’s not horrible but I consider rotors a wear item so it also won’t last forever IMO. My V4s can take the 2.3, but you really need the 220/223 size to make them adequately powerful. Planning on buying a set of x2 tech 4s and swapping the levers over so I can increase power further.
 

Avy

Monkey
Jan 24, 2006
437
138
Hey All,was watching Pit Tech video and in the the comment section a lot of people wanted a 3D printed Brake Handle Clamp to the Bar for constant tension on the Caliper of a TRP Brake. I think that is what it is for,but know not why? Question:

Can not a Zip Tie/Rubber Band or even a small Clamp be just as good?

It looks Tits for sure,just wondering?

Avy