I went from the two lever to the HC1 levers before my whistler trip and I love them much more than the two finger levers. The levers have a same shape and feel as Zees.
Does anyone actually two finger their brakes? Seems like a bad idea. With the two finger Magura levers I run them pretty far inboard so it's just my index finger on the hook.
Only before trying to avoid hitting a tree. I hit the tree anyways
DOH!Only before trying to avoid hitting a tree. I hit the tree anyways
Whisler is a good example on the steep slabs where you want all the freaking power in the world AND fade resistance. I was not let down by the 220 V4 setup, but I can still go for more power (Tech 4 lever for the front coming). Those are good examples though of some of the stuff I ride where I need those elements, sustained crap like that, even if a few dozen meters long, overheats small rotors wicked fast and that's where you get your wandering bite point as you try to reposition/re-grab/modulate. If you got the control there...man it saves your hands and your life. If you are just barely pulling it off every time...we've all been there...man that is scary and the 2-finger pull is usually a part of that...
Yeah a smaller inner diameter has less area for the fluid to generate force that the line has to resist and will be stiffer for the same wall thickness.
What are those orings going around? I was thinking it was one stretched over the outside pin head and and distal end of the pin, but that can't be the case based on the picture. What am I missing here?
Why not have a single taller brake mount?
Maybe he flips between 200mm and 180mm rotor depending on course and it's a way to avoid fucking up the captured threads in the frame?Why not have a single taller brake mount?
Couldn't mount the prototype not live valve 2.0 live valve sensor.Why not have a single taller brake mount?
That bottom thing isn't a standard brake mount by the looks. Must be something the frame comes with to adapt from frame to normal mount.Why not have a single taller brake mount?
Yeah, the Altitude has a bolt-on mount that you flip around depending which chainstay flip chip setting you're using to move the brake caliper to match.
You're looking for a PM7 to 223/+43 mm adapter.
www.bike-components.de
Well I have the freaking Tech 4 lever sitting here...bike is still at a friends house. Once I'm able enough I plan on hooking that up to the V4 with the 223, but fuck if I know when that's going to happen now. Really want to try it. The 220/223 rotors were really instrumental in keeping the heat away from the V4s on 50% sustained grades and I just wanted more bite still.
The stronger the brakes the less force you need to brake at the limit of traction, the less force you need the more control you have and the less arm pump you get.
What he said. Plus you've got more margin for still having working brakes when you get stuff hot.
Yeah. The bleed kits weren't even available yet when I got mine, so I just did it by carefully topping up the reservoir with the cap removed.Do the T4s require a new bleeding kit?
(I think I can guess the answer)
I've tried 203s at both ends, and a 220 front. Didn't need more power than the 203, strictly speaking, but I'm pretty sold on the idea that going "overkill" is actually pretty great from a control and hand pump perspective, just because you don't have to squeeze as hard. At least provided that your trails are long and steep enough to put some heat into the brakes.
No clue. Just curious to see if anyone has every tried this mix. I never liked Shigura except with the XTR Race levers that don't have servowave. If they ever make Sram DB8 levers in an RSC version, they might be the best new lever to match with Magura calipers for folks that don't like the Magura levers. Personally, I love the hc3 levers, but it's always fun to experiment.
Hows the lever length/ergonomics compared to the T3 V4?
