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Frankenbrakes and brake improvement discussion

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
19,948
18,813
Canaderp
Has anyone tried using shims under the pads as the wear? My Dominion A4 have quite a much free play in and for some reason bleeding doesn't seem to help. My DH bike Saints had same issue and replacing pads fixed this little "feature".
My front pads were pretty low, but I honestly didn't notice any difference at the lever.


As for my rattling pads. It's been a none issue here in Alberta. The trails are rocky enough so I just can't hear it. That at I had them ripping hot on a steep trail. Wow they were loud. :rofl:
 

OGRipper

back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
10,638
1,099
NORCAL is the hizzle
Has anyone tried using shims under the pads as the wear? My Dominion A4 have quite a much free play in and for some reason bleeding doesn't seem to help. My DH bike Saints had same issue and replacing pads fixed this little "feature".
I definitely find that I need to replace pads that are not fully worn to get the best performance from different brakes (SRAM, shimano, and TRP). Once the pads get down a bit you get too much piston extension, causing other issues. Shims are an interesting idea that might help extend pad life while retaining performance.

Sounds like a job for a beer can, some snips, and a drill. Let us know how it goes!
 

Jozz

Joe Dalton
Apr 18, 2002
5,709
7,141
SADL
Has anyone tried using shims under the pads as the wear? My Dominion A4 have quite a much free play in and for some reason bleeding doesn't seem to help. My DH bike Saints had same issue and replacing pads fixed this little "feature".
Got 3-4 sets of pads almost down to the spring without any change of feel at the lever.
 

marshalolson

Turbo Monkey
May 25, 2006
1,770
519
Got 3-4 sets of pads almost down to the spring without any change of feel at the lever.
I'm with you... pads are typically 80-90% word by the time the wear begins negatively effecting the lever, and at that point, I feel I've gotten my money's worth out of the pads!
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,419
4,643
Australia
I did not have a good experience with Galfer Pro pads, bought multiple pairs on recommendation from a local enduro expert and while they didn't do anything terribly wrong, they just didn't stop / bite all that well. Probably the most lacklustre brake pad I've purchased in a while.

I used them with new Shimano rotors, not sure if there's some kind of incompatibility but I wouldn't buy Galfer pads again.
FWIW, I was underwhelmed with the Galfers on the Shimano RT86 rotors. Just couldn't get any grab out of them. They worked brilliantly on the Hope rotors I had though. Not sure why there would be any difference really.

I'm also finding the Shimano rotors more prone to warping than other brands.

Local Enduro Expert
 

Nick

My name is Nick
Sep 21, 2001
23,818
14,173
where the trails are
would a quick MC bleed probably introduce the extra needed fluid to comp for the pad wear?
ex: anything that uses a cup at the lever: install bleed cup w/fluid, pump a few times, viola?
 

Boozzz

Chimp
Sep 12, 2019
80
84
Amsterdayummm
would a quick MC bleed probably introduce the extra needed fluid to comp for the pad wear?
ex: anything that uses a cup at the lever: install bleed cup w/fluid, pump a few times, viola?
Yes, but be sure to open up the bleed screw before pushing the pistons back when you install new pads. Some diaphragm damage might occur otherwise. Especially with Shimano, but no surprise there.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
19,948
18,813
Canaderp
Found some MTX red pads here in Revelstoke.

They any good?

I think I still have half the metal Hayes pads left, so will see how they last here in the park tomorrow.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,914
1,198
Galfer still a no from me.

If you can't make a pad that works with the most common midrange rotor in the world...
FWIW it was an icetech RT86 203mm (they're still made in Japan), seems to work fine with other pads.

Galfer Pro / Green = didn't bite very well
Galfer Red = didn't bite in wet conditions
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
980
962
Anyone able to compare MTX Gold vs. Galfer Pros on Dominions? I have run Golds on Code RSCs in the past, and just put Pros on both my pairs of Dominions. The Pros felt great at first, but seem to be wearing out incredibly fast (like... 2 weeks and I'm already starting to have to constantly fiddle with the reach adjust). From what I remember on the Golds, they lasted forever, but I also remember I had to fiddle with the contact adjuster on the Codes constantly, so they might not be any better in that regard than the Galfers.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
980
962
Anyone able to compare MTX Gold vs. Galfer Pros on Dominions? I have run Golds on Code RSCs in the past, and just put Pros on both my pairs of Dominions. The Pros felt great at first, but seem to be wearing out incredibly fast (like... 2 weeks and I'm already starting to have to constantly fiddle with the reach adjust). From what I remember on the Golds, they lasted forever, but I also remember I had to fiddle with the contact adjuster on the Codes constantly, so they might not be any better in that regard than the Galfers.
I did a road trip up to OR last weekend, and 1/4 pairs of Galfer pads shit the bed somehow on the trip up there. I can't say for certain it's the pads' fault, but I do know that after 3 rounds of iso, sanding, iso on both the rotors and pads, they were still honking like a demonic goose. Every time I'd go to bed them in, the pads would get really dark, black smears would appear on the rotor, and honking would start as soon as soon as bed-in finished. I tried 2 different rotors too. Only thing that made it go away was going to a fresh set of Hayes 100 sintered pads. It's possible that it's just some road gunk, but seems odd that the rest of the pads/brakes were fine.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
19,948
18,813
Canaderp
I did a road trip up to OR last weekend, and 1/4 pairs of Galfer pads shit the bed somehow on the trip up there. I can't say for certain it's the pads' fault, but I do know that after 3 rounds of iso, sanding, iso on both the rotors and pads, they were still honking like a demonic goose. Every time I'd go to bed them in, the pads would get really dark, black smears would appear on the rotor, and honking would start as soon as soon as bed-in finished. I tried 2 different rotors too. Only thing that made it go away was going to a fresh set of Hayes 100 sintered pads. It's possible that it's just some road gunk, but seems odd that the rest of the pads/brakes were fine.
Just noisy and dirty or they also didn't stop well?
 

konifere

Monkey
Dec 20, 2021
482
599
I will run cable actuated brakes before running brakes that require trailside bleeding.
I have never touched the shitty Radius cable disc brakes on my fat bike in 3 years (only use it in the winter between 0C and -20C basically), and with 180mm rotors it's enough to stop me in the snow. My friends are always fiddling with sticky pistons or levers with their DOT or mineral oil brakes, and I just ride.

I must say that I carry my fat bike in the car though, as road grime in the winter destroys everything and I don't feel like cleaning it after each ride.

So @Andeh, it could be a contamination issue from the road maybe? I usually cover my rear rotor when lubing my chain and when hosing my bike and make sure to clean the rotors with IPA before braking again. I don't doubt your meticulousness at all, just wondering out loud.
 
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canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
19,948
18,813
Canaderp
I have never touched the shitty Radius cable disc brakes on my fat bike in 3 years (only use it in the winter between 0C and -20C basically), and with 180mm rotors it's enough to stop me in the snow. My friends are always fiddling with sticky pistons or levers with their DOT or mineral oil brakes, and I just ride.

I must say that I carry my fat bike in the car though, as road grime in the winter destroys everything and I don't feel like cleaning it after each ride.
I have shitty Shimano brakes on my fat bike and pretty sure they leak or something.

But they still work - not that they have to do much on snow, it doesn't take much before the tires lose traction.

But yeah, I never put my bike on the rack as soon as they start laying down salt or thay brine stuff on the ground.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
980
962
Just noisy and dirty or they also didn't stop well?
The brake technically worked, but it vibrated so much I felt it through the frame. It was really unnerving to try and drop speed before a corner and have the whole bike shake and honk. Luckily it was on the bike I only rode 1 day, and my bike I rode the other 2 days was fine. I didn't wash the bike or lube the chain, and it wasn't raining at all. I mean, it probably was something from the road, but I'd think that 3 rounds of decon would have fixed it. Rotor was true enough not to rub. All the pistons were advancing.
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,419
4,643
Australia
The brake technically worked, but it vibrated so much I felt it through the frame. It was really unnerving to try and drop speed before a corner and have the whole bike shake and honk. Luckily it was on the bike I only rode 1 day, and my bike I rode the other 2 days was fine. I didn't wash the bike or lube the chain, and it wasn't raining at all. I mean, it probably was something from the road, but I'd think that 3 rounds of decon would have fixed it. Rotor was true enough not to rub. All the pistons were advancing.
When I put Dominions on my Smuggler the rear was honking quite a bit, though I'd never had an issue with the Hope E4 on that bike. I ended up trying new pads, a new rotor and then replacing the frame bearings (wondered if they were worn and causing a resonance/vibration). In the end I dropped from a 203 to a 180 rotor and dead silence. Not sure if it was the adaptor causing the issue or just something to do with the torque? I've left it like that cos with the Dominion the 180 is heaps for that bike, but will try to find another adaptor and try the bigger rotor again in the future.

Glad swapping pads fixed your issue.

FWIW, I've never really had any luck trying to decontaminate brake pads. Once they're done, they're done IME.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
980
962
Yeah, I tried both the 220 that was on there (it's an ebike) and a 200, because I thought it might be rotor flex or something weird, but that didn't fix it. My theory is: road gunk got on 1 pad and penetrated deep. Uneven pad grip side to side caused a slip/start vibration.

I agree with it barely being worth the effort to try decon'ing pads... I think I've been successful at it like one time in a half dozen attempts or so, and that involved heavy sanding and lighting the iso on fire. i.e., not worth the effort.
 

appltn

fastest banhammer in the west
Apr 19, 2022
9
13
I just had a banjo bolt head shear off of my Direttissima C42 which is annoying. I‘ve emailed Trickstuff and I’m sure they’ll ship me a new one but it’ll take a week or so to arrive to the UK from Germany. Has anyone had success using a different bolt in a Direttissima C42 caliper? Maybe a Sram or Shimano?
 

Boozzz

Chimp
Sep 12, 2019
80
84
Amsterdayummm
Shimano, Hayes, Hope, Goodridge, should work, they're all the same with M6x1 thread. I recall the old SRAM code had a slightly different looking screw, not sure what they use nowadays. Magura uses M5 for some strange reason, so defo avoid that.
 
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appltn

fastest banhammer in the west
Apr 19, 2022
9
13
Oh that’s encouraging, thanks for the reply. I’ll take the broken one to the bike shop tomorrow and see what they’ve got that matches.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,757
9,484
AK
That reminds me of the bullshit crimped hydro fittings on the caliper end of shimano. Was a pain in the ass to find at a local shop. Would much prefer the same on both sides like Hope.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
19,948
18,813
Canaderp
That reminds me of the bullshit crimped hydro fittings on the caliper end of shimano. Was a pain in the ass to find at a local shop. Would much prefer the same on both sides like Hope.
Some Shimanos do have the same fittings on both ends, which is just the barb and olive.

But the ones with the banjo bolts, yeah are not replaceable. But the hoses aren't too expensive.

The bad thing is Shimanos cross compatibility list and part number lookup vs model. Once you toss that out the window and realize they all work together, it's easier to find.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
53,932
19,668
Sleazattle
Had to try 4 different 203mm rotors until I could find one that was straight enough to not rub from side to side on Hayes A4s, and that is after attempting to straighten while measureing with a dial indicator. They seem to need to be within 0.003". Great brakes but the required rotor tolerances are much tighter than even Hayes seems to produce.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
19,948
18,813
Canaderp
Had to try 4 different 203mm rotors until I could find one that was straight enough to not rub from side to side on Hayes A4s, and that is after attempting to straighten while measureing with a dial indicator. They seem to need to be within 0.003". Great brakes but the required rotor tolerances are much tighter than even Hayes seems to produce.
What rotors did you try?

I have some Trickstuff rotors that are 2.1mm (I think...) thick and at least the front one got warped from heat in BC.

Was going to try Hayes own rotors, as they are ever so slightly thinner.
 
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konifere

Monkey
Dec 20, 2021
482
599
FWIW the 3 Magura rotors (203mm) I bought from R2bike were very warped, like a mm or more. I got to put them pretty straight, but it's still annoying. I had two extras from another store that were straight so I used those instead. They probably got bent in shipping, maybe that was the case with yours too @Westy ?
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
53,932
19,668
Sleazattle
What rotors did you try?

I have some Trickstuff rotors that are 2.1mm (I think...) thick and at least the front one got warped from heat in BC.

Was going to try Hayes own rotors, as they are ever so slightly thinner.
Sram, which were potato chips out of the box and couldn't be straightened enough. 2.3mm TRPs which were too wide for the Hayes, at least with fresh pads. Then I bought some actual Hayes rotors which could be straightened to work in the shop but would get all wobbly after any real application of brakes. Eventually some 1.8mm 2 piece TRPs did the trick. I am guessing being thin out of the box helped. Unfortunate that they aren't compatible with 2.3mm rotors as logic would assume they would be straighter and more stable.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,757
9,484
AK
FWIW the 3 Magura rotors (203mm) I bought from R2bike were very warped, like a mm or more. I got to put them pretty straight, but it's still annoying. I had two extras from another store that were straight so I used those instead. They probably got bent in shipping, maybe that was the case with yours too @Westy ?
Mine wasn't warped, but it didn't quite measure 2.0 as claimed, so if you need some "bigger than 1.8, but not bigger than 2.0" they might make a good buy.