Frankenbrakes and brake improvement discussion
- Thread starter Udi
- Start date
Hayes replied, they're 684 bearings. I ordered a 10-pack off Amazon for $11 of 684-2RS (double rubber seal, appeared the same as what were in there). Dimensions of 684 bearings are different then Code/Guide bearings, which are imperial sized.
The cascade calipers with code rsc levers are not on brakes ddzyne nl?
Is there any info online that shows the numbers with how they actually compare to the brakes on that site?
How do they stack up against the Maximas etc?
Is there any info online that shows the numbers with how they actually compare to the brakes on that site?
How do they stack up against the Maximas etc?
The cascade calipers with code rsc levers are not on brakes ddzyne nl?
Is there any info online that shows the numbers with how they actually compare to the brakes on that site?
How do they stack up against the Maximas etc?
Also meant to ask if anyone has paired the latest Hope tech4 v4 levers with the cascade calipers?
Is the hope master cylinder piston size smaller than the code rsc lever?? Edit - I see that the code is 9.5mm on the spreadsheet.
I'm not sure if the newest hope tech4 lever is on the spreadsheet?
Is there any info online that shows the numbers with how they actually compare to the brakes on that site?
How do they stack up against the Maximas etc?
Also meant to ask if anyone has paired the latest Hope tech4 v4 levers with the cascade calipers?
Is the hope master cylinder piston size smaller than the code rsc lever?? Edit - I see that the code is 9.5mm on the spreadsheet.
I'm not sure if the newest hope tech4 lever is on the spreadsheet?
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The Cascade callipers use a 18/16 mm slave cylinder combo, same area as e.g. a Hope V4. So combine a Code R lever and a V4 calliper on the site to get an idea. Note that the RS/RSC lever should give you a bit more mechanical advantage due to the leverage modifying link in there.
As far as the Tech 4 lever goes, I unfortunately didn't measure mine when I had them (was dealing with too many QC issues/leaking and eventually returned them for a refund), but according to the guys on the German forums who measured them, total leverage ratio for the Tech 4 V4 is comparable to a Hayes Dominion, both around the 40 mark.
Question for people running 2.0mm rotors on Dominions... what do you usually do when you install new pads? Whenever I've done this, there's basically so little clearance between pads and rotor that it's nearly impossible to not have intermittent rub unless the rotor is perfectly true. (Even with pistons fully retracted before installing new pads.) And then also the lever bite is crazy quick.
Do you do a top bleed to relieve some pressure? Sand down the pads a bit (seems like counter to the point of fresh pads)? Suffer the rub & feel for a few rides until the pads wear down a bit?
Also, do you adjust the lever reach to a certain distance from bar before bleeding? I know on SRAM's bleed guide, they tell you to do that, but Hayes doesn't mention it. I ask because the brake I'm installing the fresh pads cannot be set to pull fully to the bar, whereas my other 3 can. I'm assuming I need to wind the reach out a bit before I bleed it next time, correct?
Do you do a top bleed to relieve some pressure? Sand down the pads a bit (seems like counter to the point of fresh pads)? Suffer the rub & feel for a few rides until the pads wear down a bit?
Also, do you adjust the lever reach to a certain distance from bar before bleeding? I know on SRAM's bleed guide, they tell you to do that, but Hayes doesn't mention it. I ask because the brake I'm installing the fresh pads cannot be set to pull fully to the bar, whereas my other 3 can. I'm assuming I need to wind the reach out a bit before I bleed it next time, correct?
I might be lost here but I'm sure bite point adjust might be worth setting all the way out before a bleed but what would lever reach do?
I just stuck new pads in my Dominions and only had to back the pistons out fully. Levers feel the same as before. Oh and also had to adjust the calipers on the mounts - as mine don't seem to push out the pistons equally on both sides, on both the front and back calipers. They work and I've tried cleaning and resetting the pistons multiple times, but it always happens....so I just ignore that now.
It sounds like you might have too much fluid in your brakes? My front one did that when new, but stopped with the instant engagement after bleeding it a second time. I bleed them with the bleed block in.
But yes, very little wiggle room.
It sounds like you might have too much fluid in your brakes? My front one did that when new, but stopped with the instant engagement after bleeding it a second time. I bleed them with the bleed block in.
But yes, very little wiggle room.
I hadn't touched the bite point adjust since I've gotten them. Both are set all the way clockwise. I backed off the touchy brake a few full rotations and it didn't seem to do much.
Today I did a top bleed and as soon as I opened the MC port, quite a bit of fluid came out. I was able to get the pads in without rub after that, but the front brake (the trouble one) still has a reach such that if it's fully wound in, it corresponds to a few full rotations (~12-15 clicks) out on the rear brake for the same distance to the grip. They feel pretty similar now but I'm thinking next time I bleed the front, I'm going to try winding the reach much further out. Or when I bleed the rear, wind it's reach all the way in.
One thing I've noticed with the Dominions compared to the SRAM brakes using the syringe bleed is that it seems a bit vague to find the neutral/non-pressurised fill amount. Might be the syringes I've got being a little sticky or the reservoir bladder design but they don't have a positive feel to indicate when you can removed the syringe and not spill fluid out or suck air in. I just slightly pressurise it and have a rag handy when I unscrew the syringe.
https://www.instagram.com/lewis_bike_brakes/
Anyone? Seen those on bee_kay77 instagram today. They seem to be trickstuff copies with some mods.
Anyone? Seen those on bee_kay77 instagram today. They seem to be trickstuff copies with some mods.
A buddy just sent me this very link. I'm intrigued.
Mineral oil, pads that look like either Hopes or Dominions, and their recommended bleed kit is the one I bought off Ali Express...
I wonder...
Already discussed at Vital's tech news thread. They are a Chinese factory who rebranded to Lewis a few months ago. You can get the same brakes under the ZRace brand for half the price or less on AliExpress. They indeed use Hope pads.
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After perusing their site, I checked the ‘ol Ali, and had a look for “Lewis brakes”.
Lots of levers look similar, but none of them have the same calliper or hose assemblies.
I still like my Dominions a lot, so this is a future me consideration.
Along with my Arrival ponderings.
There are some good reviews of the other brands' brakes are emptybeer and chinertown.
Zrace is a completely different brake. Different lever/hoses/calipers
My bad, I meant ZTTO. I wrote that post while commuting and mixed up the brands.
I have no interest in the calipers, but am curious to try out the levers
Hello there ! Made an account for this thread, biking 10 years and never had a good brake. Always to much lever throw, and to much arm pump. I like to understand a few things.
1: In the spreadsheet, the hydraulic leverage is not correct? like my hope v4 brakes, master area is 78.5 and slave is 911. So hydraulic leverage is 911 : 78.5 = 11.6. But the spreadsheet says the half of it ( 5.8) why is that ? because they are opposite of each other? i dont get it
2: When there is more leverage (hydraulic or mechanic) there is also more lever throw. so if we mount a massive caliper, or extreme long lever blades. And we squeeze the brake, we hit the grips before we have pad contact. So the big question: How can motorbrakes, quad brakes or motocross brakes have so much power, without all that lever throw ?
1: In the spreadsheet, the hydraulic leverage is not correct? like my hope v4 brakes, master area is 78.5 and slave is 911. So hydraulic leverage is 911 : 78.5 = 11.6. But the spreadsheet says the half of it ( 5.8) why is that ? because they are opposite of each other? i dont get it
2: When there is more leverage (hydraulic or mechanic) there is also more lever throw. so if we mount a massive caliper, or extreme long lever blades. And we squeeze the brake, we hit the grips before we have pad contact. So the big question: How can motorbrakes, quad brakes or motocross brakes have so much power, without all that lever throw ?
I've been down that road. Doesn't fix the issue. Doesn't even come close unfortunately. Maybe a teeny bit better, but so close to baseline that it's not really worth it IME.
Who the fuck names a mineral oil "like water"?
1. Yes, because they work opposite each other.Hello there ! Made an account for this thread, biking 10 years and never had a good brake. Always to much lever throw, and to much arm pump. I like to understand a few things.
1: In the spreadsheet, the hydraulic leverage is not correct? like my hope v4 brakes, master area is 78.5 and slave is 911. So hydraulic leverage is 911 : 78.5 = 11.6. But the spreadsheet says the half of it ( 5.8) why is that ? because they are opposite of each other? i dont get it
2: When there is more leverage (hydraulic or mechanic) there is also more lever throw. so if we mount a massive caliper, or extreme long lever blades. And we squeeze the brake, we hit the grips before we have pad contact. So the big question: How can motorbrakes, quad brakes or motocross brakes have so much power, without all that lever throw ?
2. Because they have a massively large diameter disc compared to their wheel size. Their leverage actually ratio isn't much off from MTB brakes. E.g. a Brembo 4 pot racing caliper with 30 mm pistons can be used with a 19 mm MC, which gives a pretty average hydraulic leverage ratio (just under 5).
It's just because everything MTB is so tiny, that if a tolerance is slightly off, it'll feel like ass pretty quickly.
funny, probably died on the first ride
what were those videos about? I remember that I should watch them when i got the opportunity but they are now private...
It was a shittily filmed unboxing "review" video of the Lewis brakes.
I would guess it was put out by someone who sells them.
na was some private dude, bikes were way to shitty for someone in the biz.
bee_kay77 has another vid out on them, apparently good first impression:
BK on Instagram: "Brake upgrade? Installed, fine tuning and testing underway. @lewis_bike_brakes"
13K likes, 150 comments - bee_kay77 on October 22, 2023: "Brake upgrade? Installed, fine tuning and testing underway. @lewis_bike_brakes".
www.instagram.com
Typical of most things manufactured in China, they can copy anything and make it look purdy.
It's the QC, materials used, and durability that is usually lacking.
Have these been mentioned here yet? Not too bad with the current exchange rate to USD.
www.radicperformance.com
It's the QC, materials used, and durability that is usually lacking.
Have these been mentioned here yet? Not too bad with the current exchange rate to USD.
High Performance MTB Brakes | Made In New Zealand
The KAHA brake set is the best brake upgrade option for all mountain bikers & e-bikers. It is considered as one of the strongest and most powerful brakes on the market. Designed & engineered in New Zealand, the KAHA brake set is the ultimate choice for discerning riders seeking unparalleled
www.radicperformance.com
Those look good. I exchanged some email back in early '22 about availability. at the time, they weren't ready/able to ship to the US. Looks like that is an option now. Also, at the time that guy said most people were running 2.0mm Gafler rotors with great results.Typical of most things manufactured in China, they can copy anything and make it look purdy.
It's the QC, materials used, and durability that is usually lacking.
Have these been mentioned here yet? Not too bad with the current exchange rate to USD.
High Performance MTB Brakes | Made In New Zealand
The KAHA brake set is the best brake upgrade option for all mountain bikers & e-bikers. It is considered as one of the strongest and most powerful brakes on the market. Designed & engineered in New Zealand, the KAHA brake set is the ultimate choice for discerning riders seeking unparalleled
$NZ exchange isn't too bad either. If my TRPs weren't already so good I'd roll the dice.
doesn‘t look too shabby?
www.instagram.com
BK on Instagram: "Lewis lever internals. Very easy to disassemble and reassemble for cleaning and servicing, with a nice and simple (but very effective) reach and bite point adjuster design. Simple diaphragm design with removable reservoir cap that can deal with a large amount of retraction and expansion and that also runs out of room in the reservoir, which means it won't be susceptible to the dreaded blown/burst diaphragms some brakes suffer from. It means you can also safely use a syringe on the lever and use quite a bit of force which can help with extracting bubbles up and out. @lewis_bike_brakes"
2,218 likes, 79 comments - bee_kay77 on October 27, 2023: "Lewis lever internals. Very easy to disassemble and reassemble for cleaning and servicing, with a nice and simple (but very effective) reach and bite point adjuster design. Simple diaphragm design with removable reservoir cap that can...
www.instagram.com