[Katz]

Do you happen to have to piston & oring seal measurements? Actually need reference for a set of M640's but I'm thinking I can subtract the difference..

I can pop the O-rings out and measure when I get home. Probably won't be back for another week, though (work).

Having really bad luck with the shimano levers + wandering/no bite point..

It's the Shimano calipers that suck, not the levers.

FWIW (just another data point from a random average MTBer), I used the same M820 calipers since 2013 but went through 3 sets of M985/M9000 levers. The MC bore on my last RH lever was completely worn out - I put the piston/seal assembly from an old leaky LH lever in it, thinking that would get me by for a week, but it didn't even make it through one ride.

I replaced them with a pair of Quadiems. So far so good.

 

[Inclag]

So has anybody installed any of those aluminum aftermarket Shimano pistons yet? If so, any improvement on the leak/wandering bite issues?

 

[Flo33]

So has anybody installed any of those aluminum aftermarket Shimano pistons yet? If so, any improvement on the leak/wandering bite issues?

Paging @kidwoo

 

[StiHacka]

Paging @kidwoo

If he doesn't respond within 24hrs, don't buy the aftermarket pistons.

 

[Flo33]

He will respond within 23 hrs 59 min and 53 sec.

 

[kidwoo]

He will respond within 23 hrs 59 min and 53 sec.

I put the pistons in and my brakes were deadly by the time I got around to trying to ride it.

I don't know if the pads were pre-fucked and I just didn't check before hand but that's all I know so far. They're on a second trail bike I have right now so I haven't really been too diligent. Let me throw some clean pads on and see if they get contaminated with my bike just sitting. That's the real test in my experience.

ha! 23hrs and something something something

 

[JerseyMojo]

Quick question for you guys on Cura's.. What rotors are you running? I've had my Cura's for about 18 months now and have never not had a small amount of brake rub.. I've tried dabbing some brake fluid and silicon on the pistons once they are fully out, but still get really bad rollback on them..

 

[Nick]

Quick question for you guys on Cura's.. What rotors are you running? I've had my Cura's for about 18 months now and have never not had a small amount of brake rub.. I've tried dabbing some brake fluid and silicon on the pistons once they are fully out, but still get really bad rollback on them..

when using with Formula rotors I've had zero rub.

 

[JerseyMojo]

Thanks Nick. Any formula rotor in particular? I’m using ice techs at the moment.

 

[dovbush66]

Thanks Nick. Any formula rotor in particular? I’m using ice techs at the moment.

I had the same issue as you with sram centerlines and using formula rotors also solved it. The formula ones are a bit thicker and hold straighter.

There's the older drilled rotors and the new style cura4 ones.

this is the newer type. Apparently a bit better than the olds iirc.

 

[jstuhlman]

I had the same issue as you with sram centerlines and using formula rotors also solved it. The formula ones are a bit thicker and hold straighter.

There's the older drilled rotors and the new style cura4 ones.
View attachment 131729
this is the newer type. Apparently a bit better than the olds iirc.

any idea where to find these other than ebay? my google-fu is failing me

 

[Flo33]

any idea where to find these other than ebay? my google-fu is failing me

Ze Shermans have them, Bike-Discount, Bike-Components, r2 shop...
A mate had the same troubles with non IceTech Shimano rotors and Curas. The new Formula rotors are fine.

 

[Flo33]

Trickstuff did an in house brake test, comparing some aftermarket brakes with the original pads on their own dyno.
X-axis shows finger force in Newton, y-axis braking momentum in Nm.

The winner is their new and coming Maxima brake, second Direttissima and third Magura MT7 with the performance lever.

1st Trickstuff Maxima
2nd Trickstuff Drittissima
3rd Maguar MT7
4th Saint
5th new 4 piston XTR 9120
6th Code RSC
7th Cura 4 with organic pads
8th XTR race 9100
9th Hope V4

On a side note, Formula sinter pads should provide a significantly higher momentum.

 

[Happymtb.fr]

@Flo33 where did you find that?
Would be nice to have the stroke length and particularly the dead stroke length.

Would have been nice to have the new Hayes too

 

[StiHacka]

Would be nice to have the stroke length and particularly the dead stroke length.

This. It would be a shame if the mile long Magura blades (langer Hebel) didn't require tiny force indeed.

 

[Flo33]

@Flo33 where did you find that?
Would be nice to have the stroke length and particularly the dead stroke length.

Would have been nice to have the new Hayes too

There is a pretty long and a bit annoying thread at mtb-news.de following the press release of the new Maxima brake. https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/trickstuff-maxima-noch-staerker-noch-standfester-noch-besser.880773/
Some muppets were complaining about some shit and Trickstuff employees as well as the owner himself responded and part of it was this diagram.
They also promised another test series with equal pads in all of the brakes. We shall see.

 

[Happymtb.fr]

Thanks @Flo33 !
25 pages of German is a little zu viel für mich... please keep us updated

 

[Flo33]

Thanks @Flo33 !
25 pages of German is a little zu viel für mich... please keep us updated

Will do.

 

[Katz]

Do you happen to have to piston & oring seal measurements? Actually need reference for a set of M640's but I'm thinking I can subtract the difference.

Sorry it took a while. From left to right...

- Leading side screw o-ring, 8.8-ish mm (maybe 9.0mm?) O.D. x 0.70mm. No o-ring groove machined in the caliper halves EDIT: see edit below.
- Leading piston seal, square o-ring, 21mm O.D. x 2.0mm
- Trailing piston seal, square o-ring, 19mm O.D. x 2.0mm
- Trailing side screw o-ring, 10mm O.D. x 1.5-ish mm.

EDIT: It's been a while since I took the caliper apart and I hadn't had coffee yet. I got confused. No fluid passage by the leading side screw, so no o-ring/seal necessary there. This o-ring actually sits on the shoulder of the trailing side screw, as shown in the pic below.

 

[SylentK]

View attachment 131785 Trickstuff did an in house brake test, comparing some aftermarket brakes with the original pads on their own dyno.
X-axis shows finger force in Newton, y-axis braking momentum in Nm.

The winner is their new and coming Maxima brake, second Direttissima and third Magura MT7 with the performance lever.

1st Trickstuff Maxima
2nd Trickstuff Drittissima
3rd Maguar MT7
4th Saint
5th new 4 piston XTR 9120
6th Code RSC
7th Cura 4 with organic pads
8th XTR race 9100
9th Hope V4

On a side note, Formula sinter pads should provide a significantly higher momentum.

How the heck did they get a hold of the new Shimano quad piston XTRs?! AFAIK they are not out yet...If anyone knows who actually has them in stock...I know a guy interesting in selling his kidney for a set.

Also, isn't it always the company putting on a fancy test/chart like this always the one that does the best? LOL

 

[Flo33]

I don't know but I can/will ask.

Regarding the power of the Trickstuff brakes it is common knowledge that they are mighty powerful. Enduro mag did their brake comparison two times and the Direttissima was the strongest brake in both events, at the Hope lab.

 

[Flo33]

How the heck did they get a hold of the new Shimano quad piston XTRs?! AFAIK they are not out yet...If anyone knows who actually has them in stock...I know a guy interesting in selling his kidney for a set.

Also, isn't it always the company putting on a fancy test/chart like this always the one that does the best? LOL

Here ya go

Resin pads

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/XTR-Enduro-BR-M9120-Disc-Brake-Set-w-Resin-Pads-p65626/

Sintered pads

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/XTR-Enduro-v-h-Set-Scheibenbremse-BR-M9120-mit-Metallbelag-p68079/

 

[Happymtb.fr]

Maybe Shimano doesn't need to make their brake any better: they are fully supported by the PB crowd: https://m.pinkbike.com/poll/1760-which-brand-of-brakes-will-you-be-purchasing-next-for-your-.html

 

[dovbush66]

I stuck a set of Uberbike sintered pads in one my brakes (2013 R0). Can def recommend them.
They work just as well so far, seem to be biting a bit better in the wet but I've only ridden in light drizzle so far
Few small downsides though -
Amount of braking material on the pad is smaller, so they'll probably glaze over easier. Also took way longer to bed in.

Dunno the backing material, would most cheap chinese pads be steel?

Can't really go wrong for 7 pound per wheel otherwise

 

[mykel]

I stuck a set of Uberbike sintered pads in one my brakes (2013 R0). Can def recommend them.
They work just as well so far, seem to be biting a bit better in the wet but I've only ridden in light drizzle so far
Few small downsides though -
Amount of braking material on the pad is smaller, so they'll probably glaze over easier. Also took way longer to bed in.

Dunno the backing material, would most cheap chinese pads be steel?

Can't really go wrong for 7 pound per wheel otherwise

I have a set of their Race-matrix pads - as used by the "Steve Peat Syndicate Downhill Team"
I have not tried them yet. They came with a seperate set of cooling fins that I guess you are supposed to put behind the pads...

Have not measured everything up yet to figure out where they got the space for the finned shim thing....but your comment on the pad thickness makes me think. I thought they may take a smidge off of the pad, and some off of the backing, thinking they would make up the thermal mass with the finned section. Problem with that would be unless the mating surfaces are really flat and / or you use a thermal paste the effectiveness of the added separate fin section is highly debatable...

I am interested to see how the pad composition works though.

 

[dovbush66]

I have a set of their Race-matrix pads - as used by the "Steve Peat Syndicate Downhill Team"
I have not tried them yet. They came with a seperate set of cooling fins that I guess you are supposed to put behind the pads...

Have not measured everything up yet to figure out where they got the space for the finned shim thing....but your comment on the pad thickness makes me think. I thought they may take a smidge off of the pad, and some off of the backing, thinking they would make up the thermal mass with the finned section. Problem with that would be unless the mating surfaces are really flat and / or you use a thermal paste the effectiveness of the added separate fin section is highly debatable...

I am interested to see how the pad composition works though.

By smaller I meant the width of the braking material bit is smaller, so there's more backplate showing and it's a bit differently shaped, top and bottom aren't curved. Smaller overall area leads to more glazing iirc? This is probably specific to the formula pads anyway

Finned versions I think they took more material off backplates than pad. Be cool to hear if they work, I would have tried but from googling the versions for formulas didn't work well, mainly causing rub and longer lever pull because of play between the fin and pad.

I've heard mixed stuff on the race matrix compound on this forum and others, only one way to find out for sure though.

 

[mykel]

By smaller I meant the width of the braking material bit is smaller, so there's more backplate showing and it's a bit differently shaped, top and bottom aren't curved. Smaller overall area leads to more glazing iirc? This is probably specific to the formula pads anyway

Finned versions I think they took more material off backplates than pad. Be cool to hear if they work, I would have tried but from googling the versions for formulas didn't work well, mainly causing rub and longer lever pull because of play between the fin and pad.

I've heard mixed stuff on the race matrix compound on this forum and others, only one way to find out for sure though.

If I try them ( who is kidding who, I eventually will ) I think I will put some copper or nickel anti-seize between the pad and the fin section to act as a thermal paste / air-gap filler, that may also help a smidge with the play.

Like the man said - you never know until you try.

 

[Udi]

I've wanted to post some things in this thread for a while now, there'll be more to come soon as I'm supposed to be fitting and bleeding a set of new Cura4 for a buddy this afternoon.

First things first, I wanted to make some commentary on the maxima.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1894071550/trickstuff-maxima-hydraulic-bicycle-disc-brake

I noticed these points in their list (obviously applies to the direttissima also):

• Additional teflon support ring next to secondary seal: Prevents aluminum piston from rubbing against the cylinder bore for a wear free piston.
• Anodized BMC piston bore: Piston bore free from wear: no black brake fluid after months of riding

Is it just me or have trickstuff been reading our brake thread? I felt like I was reading my own words, words I'd never seen them use before (in any of the DRT marketing material, etc). Of course these things are true, but the phrasing is awfully familar...

More importantly - while I agree with almost everything they say - there are some things they DON'T tell you about the Maxima, which I was hoping someone else would notice and comment on.

If we've already minimised pad rollback as much as practically possible (DRT, Cura4), and thus pad/piston:rotor clearance, how can we get higher peak force from a brake without variable mechanical leverage (i.e. SW)? The single-pivot mechanical leverage curve is already fairly well optimised on the DRT (the close-to-bar pivot point helps a lot), and to simply increase hydraulic leverage would increase lever throw in direct proportion. So what did they do? Basically the latter - they claim small changes to the mechanical curve, but the reality is: the maxima will have noticeably longer free-throw than the diretissima. Trickstuff are not stupid, they have attempted to address this by "including the upgraded stainless braided hoses" for you. In reality these aren't an option, they are mandatory - they reduce the "squish" (practically + specifically: lever travel beyond the pad contact point) in the system so that even though the brake has longer free throw, it does not then travel into a physically unsafe range (which can and does happen on rear Saint M820 brakes for example - fixed by people running the static reach very far out, forcing extra fluid into the system, all sorts). This is absolutely no different to the Hope V4 vs. E4, if you put plastic hoses back on a set of V4s, the practical throw (i.e. free throw + throw beyond contact point together) will become too long.

However the reality is, stainless hoses don't reverse the increase in free throw that the maxima experiences, so this "solution" is a compensation of one thing for another, and those things are NOT the same. Stainless hoses also add mass, so what you have is a brake that is a) heavier than the DRT, mandatory, and b) has longer free throw than the DRT: also mandatory. I think it's an acceptable compromise / solution if VERY high braking force is required (i.e. WC-level DH rider on 29" bike, for example), and could potentially remove the need for a 225 rotor in that scenario.

Now just to be fair: the DRT does have much shorter free-throw than any brake with competing peak force (M820, MT7) and even manages shorter free-throw than brakes with less peak force (Guide, Code, V4, etc). So I imagine the Maxima will still be decent on this front.

It's great that they made an even more powerful brake, this is a company I encourage people to support.
I don't like the sneakily implied "free lunch" rubbish though, so I wanted to bust that myth.

Trickstuff did an in house brake test
...
9th Hope V4
On a side note, Formula sinter pads should provide a significantly higher momentum.

The other thing I wanted to address is this.
I already mentioned earlier in the thread that the Enduro MTB test left some things to be desired. Yes the DRT won that test (although I can't find the numerical torque results graph anymore?), but I pointed out once already that while yes the DRT is an excellent brake, dyno testing 10 brakes with 10 different pad compounds and materials dilutes the force information about the actual brake, by adding the pad as a significant variable. To me, these tests mean very little.

Now Trickstuff has gone and done their own test - but yet again - all different pads, and reading the fine print they go on about a new pad compound for the Maxima - which makes me wonder if they even used the same pad compound for the DRT and Maxima in that test. Did no one see that huge jump in supposed peak momentum and think, hang on, is that possible?

If we look carefully at the results we can see some interesting things.
1. M820 curve is different to the others, we can see the aggressive servo wave acting early
2. All the brakes are using either organic pads or sintered metal pads with heatsinks, except for one brake which is using a pad that is both sintered AND has no heatsink. This brake is the V4, which scores strangely low on the test.

I know most people think sintered pads are great - the reality is they're great until you overheat them, which actually happens very easily in hard use (eg. bikepark), and once overheated the peak friction force drops permanently. Guys like buckoW throw out sintered pads daily because they lose too much bite and become useless and dangerous very quickly, personally I ran Trickstuff organic pads in the DRT all last season, except for a few weeks where I switched to Shimano sintered (non-heatsink) pads to test, and I wrecked them to the point of very little bite within just one day of runs. I went through 3-4 brand new pairs and put them back in their packets each after a day or two of riding. I've still got those pads, with 90% pad material remaining, but peak friction level: now useless.

If you use full sintered pads under hard use for longer than a day, you need to limit their peak heat, and the only way this is done successfully is through the genuine Shimano heatsink system (i.e. direct physical contact between metal pad material and aluminium heatsink, riveted together as one piece with stainless backing).

Obviously it's hard to comment on the temperature-driven permanent deterioration of a smorgasboard of different organic pads used in the other brakes, but at least on the ones I've experienced (Magura MT7, Formula, Trickstuff), they hold up much better than the average heatsink-less sintered pad.

The sintered pads on the V4 may have easily been pushed into their permanent-friction-reduced-zone after merely breaking the pads in. Using the galfer-made red organic Hope pads would have been a fairer comparison.

If anyone has followed this far, the general point I'm making is that these tests are not very useful, but this test in particular was probably unfair to the Hope V4. I don't own the V4, but I think the purpose of this thread is to separate fact from fiction - and the important thing to remember about testing is that the results are only as useful as how well the test was designed.

 

[HardtailHack]

There is a pretty long and a bit annoying thread at mtb-news.de

Well, we have a What Kind of Car Should I Buy thread that is 21 pages long and the OP ended up with an Alfasud or something similar.

I remember when Magura released their MT8/6 brakes,they had a "test" showing the rotors glowing red but I'd be fucked if I could even get mine to stop on a moderate slope, maybe I had to get them to red hot?

 

[Flo33]

I've wanted to post some things in this thread for a while now, there'll be more to come soon as I'm supposed to be fitting and bleeding a set of new Cura4 for a buddy this afternoon.

First things first, I wanted to make some commentary on the maxima.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1894071550/trickstuff-maxima-hydraulic-bicycle-disc-brake

I noticed these points in their list (obviously applies to the direttissima also):

• Additional teflon support ring next to secondary seal: Prevents aluminum piston from rubbing against the cylinder bore for a wear free piston.
• Anodized BMC piston bore: Piston bore free from wear: no black brake fluid after months of riding

Is it just me or have trickstuff been reading our brake thread? I felt like I was reading my own words, words I'd never seen them use before (in any of the DRT marketing material, etc). Of course these things are true, but the phrasing is awfully familar...

More importantly - while I agree with almost everything they say - there are some things they DON'T tell you about the Maxima, which I was hoping someone else would notice and comment on.

If we've already minimised pad rollback as much as practically possible (DRT, Cura4), and thus pad/piston:rotor clearance, how can we get higher peak force from a brake without variable mechanical leverage (i.e. SW)? The single-pivot mechanical leverage curve is already fairly well optimised on the DRT (the close-to-bar pivot point helps a lot), and to simply increase hydraulic leverage would increase lever throw in direct proportion. So what did they do? Basically the latter - they claim small changes to the mechanical curve, but the reality is: the maxima will have noticeably longer free-throw than the diretissima. Trickstuff are not stupid, they have attempted to address this by "including the upgraded stainless braided hoses" for you. In reality these aren't an option, they are mandatory - they reduce the "squish" (practically + specifically: lever travel beyond the pad contact point) in the system so that even though the brake has longer free throw, it does not then travel into a physically unsafe range (which can and does happen on rear Saint M820 brakes for example - fixed by people running the static reach very far out, forcing extra fluid into the system, all sorts). This is absolutely no different to the Hope V4 vs. E4, if you put plastic hoses back on a set of V4s, the practical throw (i.e. free throw + throw beyond contact point together) will become too long.

However the reality is, stainless hoses don't reverse the increase in free throw that the maxima experiences, so this "solution" is a compensation of one thing for another, and those things are NOT the same. Stainless hoses also add mass, so what you have is a brake that is a) heavier than the DRT, mandatory, and b) has longer free throw than the DRT: also mandatory. I think it's an acceptable compromise / solution if VERY high braking force is required (i.e. WC-level DH rider on 29" bike, for example), and could potentially remove the need for a 225 rotor in that scenario.

Now just to be fair: the DRT does have much shorter free-throw than any brake with competing peak force (M820, MT7) and even manages shorter free-throw than brakes with less peak force (Guide, Code, V4, etc). So I imagine the Maxima will still be decent on this front.

It's great that they made an even more powerful brake, this is a company I encourage people to support.
I don't like the sneakily implied "free lunch" rubbish though, so I wanted to bust that myth.



The other thing I wanted to address is this.
I already mentioned earlier in the thread that the Enduro MTB test left some things to be desired. Yes the DRT won that test (although I can't find the numerical torque results graph anymore?), but I pointed out once already that while yes the DRT is an excellent brake, dyno testing 10 brakes with 10 different pad compounds and materials dilutes the force information about the actual brake, by adding the pad as a significant variable. To me, these tests mean very little.

Now Trickstuff has gone and done their own test - but yet again - all different pads, and reading the fine print they go on about a new pad compound for the Maxima - which makes me wonder if they even used the same pad compound for the DRT and Maxima in that test. Did no one see that huge jump in supposed peak momentum and think, hang on, is that possible?

If we look carefully at the results we can see some interesting things.
1. M820 curve is different to the others, we can see the aggressive servo wave acting early
2. All the brakes are using either organic pads or sintered metal pads with heatsinks, except for one brake which is using a pad that is both sintered AND has no heatsink. This brake is the V4, which scores strangely low on the test.

I know most people think sintered pads are great - the reality is they're great until you overheat them, which actually happens very easily in hard use (eg. bikepark), and once overheated the peak friction force drops permanently. Guys like buckoW throw out sintered pads daily because they lose too much bite and become useless and dangerous very quickly, personally I ran Trickstuff organic pads in the DRT all last season, except for a few weeks where I switched to Shimano sintered (non-heatsink) pads to test, and I wrecked them to the point of very little bite within just one day of runs. I went through 3-4 brand new pairs and put them back in their packets each after a day or two of riding. I've still got those pads, with 90% pad material remaining, but peak friction level: now useless.

If you use full sintered pads under hard use for longer than a day, you need to limit their peak heat, and the only way this is done successfully is through the genuine Shimano heatsink system (i.e. direct physical contact between metal pad material and aluminium heatsink, riveted together as one piece with stainless backing).

Obviously it's hard to comment on the temperature-driven permanent deterioration of a smorgasboard of different organic pads used in the other brakes, but at least on the ones I've experienced (Magura MT7, Formula, Trickstuff), they hold up much better than the average heatsink-less sintered pad.

The sintered pads on the V4 may have easily been pushed into their permanent-friction-reduced-zone after merely breaking the pads in. Using the galfer-made red organic Hope pads would have been a fairer comparison.

If anyone has followed this far, the general point I'm making is that these tests are not very useful, but this test in particular was probably unfair to the Hope V4. I don't own the V4, but I think the purpose of this thread is to separate fact from fiction - and the important thing to remember about testing is that the results are only as useful as how well the test was designed.

Hey Udi, some very good points again. Just a short reply. Trickstuff's owner promised another test series with all the brakes running their organic Power pads. I'll post any results I shall find.
I think Trickstuff also mentioned a slightly changed lever geometry with a slightly higher toggle effect in the Max levers, but I'm not 100% sure about that. Will check.

 

[roflbox]

Is it just me or have trickstuff been reading our brake thread? I felt like I was reading my own words, words I'd never seen them use before

 

[slimshady]

 

[roflbox]

also those badboys are 990 euro without rotors
whew
wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew

 

[dovbush66]

Starting to have issues with my brakes (2013 R0) I think it's down to tired seals somewhere, since I've been doing a good bit of hard riding lately. I tried bleeding them a few times, but it makes no difference - a small amount air gets out during each bleed attempt but it's getting back in somewhere. Tried bleeding with the lever reach both in and out and again, no difference.

Issues are longer lever throw and mushy feel. Extending the lever reach makes it go away.

Which seals should I go after first? Master cylinder Diaphragms, Caliper pistons rings or something else?

 

[slimshady]

Starting to have issues with my brakes (2013 R0) I think it's down to tired seals somewhere, since I've been doing a good bit of hard riding lately. I tried bleeding them a few times, but it makes no difference - a small amount air gets out during each bleed attempt but it's getting back in somewhere. Tried bleeding with the lever reach both in and out and again, no difference.

Issues are longer lever throw and mushy feel. Extending the lever reach makes it go away.

Which seals should I go after first? Master cylinder Diaphragms, Caliper pistons rings or something else?

Formulas are notorious for failing at the lever's barb seal (that small o-ring integrated into the barb). Try replacing the barb before diving deeper into the master cylinder.

 

[Flo33]

Hey @Udi , can you copy that?

 

[dovbush66]

Formulas are notorious for failing at the lever's barb seal (that small o-ring integrated into the barb). Try replacing the barb before diving deeper into the master cylinder.

Sick, thanks for that. I'll check it out.

EDIT Again:

Replacing the barb helped make it feel better, but I found a leak in both of the MCs, so I';ll just do a full rebuild of the brakes.

 

[vinny4130]

That looks like a trp barb and olive

 

[Udi]

If anyone wants a better solution for potential barb/olive interface leaks, you can try the Hayes one-piece barb/olive, which eliminates the possibility of leaks past the barb OD and into the hose fibre braids. I've used these on Formula brakes with no problems.

 

[sundaydoug]

If anyone wants a better solution for potential barb/olive interface leaks, you can try the Hayes one-piece barb/olive, which eliminates the possibility of leaks past the barb OD and into the hose fibre braids. I've used these on Formula brakes with no problems.

Pretty cool, any chance you've tried fitting these on Shimano brakes?