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SkaredShtles

Michael Bolton
Sep 21, 2003
65,735
12,759
In a van.... down by the river
kinghami3 said:
Damn, I've free-climbed a 5.7 before (though I can cleanly lead a 5.10a with pro), but 400 ft. is nuts. One screw-up and it's all over. :dead:
Come on - once you've free soloed passed about 40 feet, it doesn't really matter how high you go........ the result if you fall from 50 feet is likely to be exactly the same as if you fall from 400. :p
 
Jul 28, 2003
657
0
Eat, ME
SkaredShtles said:
Come on - once you've free soloed passed about 40 feet, it doesn't really matter how high you go........ the result if you fall from 50 feet is likely to be exactly the same as if you fall from 400. :p
SPLAT!!!!!

The Cheese
 

N8 v2.0

Not the sharpest tool in the shed
Oct 18, 2002
11,003
149
The Cleft of Venus
SkaredShtles said:
Come on - once you've free soloed passed about 40 feet, it doesn't really matter how high you go........ the result if you fall from 50 feet is likely to be exactly the same as if you fall from 400. :p

Acceleration due to gravity is 32_ft/sec^2

The higher you fall from, the bigger the spat
 

Barbaton

Turbo Monkey
May 11, 2002
1,477
0
suburban hell
N8 said:
Acceleration due to gravity is 32_ft/sec^2

The higher you fall from, the bigger the spat
Terminal velocity of a free-falling human is about 18 ft/s, so you would reach your maximum splatting speed in about 1.7 secs, or roughly 16 ft of falling...
 

ZoRo

Turbo Monkey
Sep 28, 2004
1,224
11
MTL
Buck Fever said:
I was going to say something like that except without the factual content. I would have gone something like this..."I'm pretty certain he died doing something illogical a while back."

And then I would have pointed out the double dyno and gone :eek:
Yeah that double dyno is sick. But I think, as a couple of monkeys pointed out, 5.7 is somewhat of a walk in the park for seasoned veterans like the late Osman. On the flipside, you could be freesoloing a 5.5 and the consequences are as high as if you are doing a 5.14d

Monkey climbers-->was Osman's nickname "Dirty Bird" or was it another popular freesoloist?
 

biggins

Rump Junkie
May 18, 2003
7,173
9
lux said:
For an experienced climber, 5.7 is fairly easy -- I've never seen a dynamic requirement on any 5.7s I've done. I watched it a few times and could see him dynoing past tons of holds. Dan was always quite the showman.

It's been sooo long since I climbed or bouldered, but I used to watch his vidoes a lot.

Remember the one where he had a rope strung between two spires, sprinted off one spire, leapt and clicked a quickdraw to the rope and slid along it to the other (lower) spire? Sick.
he did all those dynos in order to skip movements. if you have stringg of good holds and one really big hold above them just dyno to em and you are good to go.


i must also add that after being a rock climber for 8 years i still think dan was idiot. when he fell and died his anchor cords, webbing, bolts and ropes had been subjected to a couple of weeks worth sun and freezing temps.
 

biggins

Rump Junkie
May 18, 2003
7,173
9
ZoRo said:
Yeah that double dyno is sick. But I think, as a couple of monkeys pointed out, 5.7 is somewhat of a walk in the park for seasoned veterans like the late Osman. On the flipside, you could be freesoloing a 5.5 and the consequences are as high as if you are doing a 5.14d

Monkey climbers-->was Osman's nickname "Dirty Bird" or was it another popular freesoloist?
the dirty bird was Jim Bridwell
 

biggins

Rump Junkie
May 18, 2003
7,173
9
SkaredShtles said:
Come on - once you've free soloed passed about 40 feet, it doesn't really matter how high you go........ the result if you fall from 50 feet is likely to be exactly the same as if you fall from 400. :p
not all the time. my buddy Kenneth to a free fall 80 footer to the deck. no head injuries at all but it took two orthopedic surgeons and one surgeon over 14 hours to get him back together. he was the fourth person to repel down at cliff at night and the entire anchor let go. he landed feet first. he also now climbs hard 5.13 on a very regular basis.
 

biggins

Rump Junkie
May 18, 2003
7,173
9
stoney98 said:
aka. Static line drops
When I climbed alot before I started biking, we used to do static lines quite a bit. I got up to about 100ft, and it started getting scary so I stopped. You have to REALLY trust the guy doing the math on the tension strengths and g-forces, else you can have a HUGE problem.
It's fun, but damn the consequences are high. Damn high.

I argee with SS about the 5.7 being easy. At his level of climbing, a 5.7 is as easy as climbing a ladder,or walking up stairs. Alot of the better climbers I know use 5.7 climbs (although roped in) for practicing dynos. When we boulder, we intentionally dyno as far as we can on climbs of that level just to see how many holds we can skip (and I'm not that good even).
actually they are droping on dynamic ropes. a static rope without any swing on a huge drop would break you in half as well as most likely snap even the strongest 11mm rope.