Cant recall which is lighter, although id be steering clear of both of em.anyone want to enlight'n?
which is going to be lighter but stonger?
Using it for fr,dh
Funny, they seem to hold up fine for the fastest man on the planet.I clipped one rock with my gravitys just 2 days ago and bent it real out of shape, theres barely a mark on 'em yet it still managed to bend the drive side arm quite alot - wont be getting gravitys again!
Sure about that buddy?Funny, they seem to hold up fine for the fastest man on the planet.
Yeah, I'm sure about it.Sure about that buddy?
Just becasue Hill is fast, doesnt mean his cranks miraculously become stronger... There has been a few occasions in which he has bent cranks mid run at World Cup level, then theres all the other times...
In any case, a DH crank should take more than one faily insignificant hit to bend them.
Yeah, I'm sure about it.
I've seen pics of his bent cranks - Ft. William 2 years ago comes to mind. The point is he hits stuff waaayyyy faster and harder than you or I ever will and still has enough confidence in them to run them. They are PLENTY strong.
best spot to lose weight (most noticable anyway) is the wheels.race face is probably heavier than the hones,I'm trying to lose some weight off my 7.3 but want to find out where I can lose that without ruining parts to fast. any suggestions?
My first thought was the crank.
Actually i've read a story in an aussie Dh mag that quoted sam hill saying he 'ran soft cranks so he didn't bend his pedals' and found that quite amusing...Yeah, I'm sure about it.
I've seen pics of his bent cranks - Ft. William 2 years ago comes to mind. The point is he hits stuff waaayyyy faster and harder than you or I ever will and still has enough confidence in them to run them. They are PLENTY strong.
the FSA moto cranks are only about 75g heavier, and are about $200 at retail., where as the lights are about $280i'm looking at getting some new cranks as my gravity gaps are the older 6061 model and are not only heavier than the newer model but also not as stiff. i might get gaps again to save cash, but i'd ideally like to get some light cranks, right now it's between hones, gravity lights and the rf atlas'. i like the pedal inserts on the hones and gravity lights, but after hearing about the gravity lights bending and also having seen some of sam hill's a little bent, i'm starting to lean away from them. i've also heard about issues with the hones though....what gives? i should probably spend the money elsewhere for weight savings, but if i want to upgrade my cranks anyways, should i go for light stuff?
Fair call on the ambiguity though, but seriously given the question (light + strong) it was easy enough to figure out which cranks he was after.Ive tried the whole lightweight crank route and have wrecked 3 sets doing it (XTs, Hones, Gravitys - although im not sure on their weight)
I will second that ! It is stupid when people compare to the pros and say " X rider use Y product so it must be good". As mentioned, they just get new stuff if it fails and I am sure the pros will have confidence in many products which the average rider should stay clear of considering that the pros only need to have the confidence for a few minutes (then it can be replaced).sure they will get him to the bottom of the hill fine. The difference however is that he can have them swaped out 5min later for free and not be stuck riding with a bent crank the rest of the season.
I have been running Saints the past couple seasons on all my bikes and havn't had to think twice.
yea wheels are a good place to lose weight. same with ditching the 3 inch tyres. seat/seatpost is another place to lose some weight.best spot to lose weight (most noticable anyway) is the wheels.
If you run dual ply tyres, use xc tubes.
Im a bit jaded as Ive had bad luck with cranks, so im never skimping there again.
Nobody rides a product if they think it is going to break. It doesn't matter if they have five more cranksets in the truck, a busted crank on the course could result in a race/season/life ending injury. Few people, especially pro racers, are going to roll the dice like that.I am sure the pros will have confidence in many products which the average rider should stay clear of considering that the pros only need to have the confidence for a few minutes (then it can be replaced).
We are essentially saying the same thingI currently am running for a drivetrain sponsor and trust me, I know the whole thing about a person not running something that will break and also the financial incentive. Having a drivetrain sponsor locks you into a company and also gives you more suport on broken things as well as money in your pocket, but that doesnt mean riders will give up strength, durability, and quality to save some grams. I hate to break you theory up, but i am not gonna risk a race run let alone my personal health/life on a bike part taht i dont trust, regardless of weight. Pro teams are especially rough on parts, and weight is an issue especially when Hills bike weighs in way below 40. But i can tell you with Hills low bb he probably smacks cranks quite a bit even with 165mms. He isnt going to want to run something that could ruin a run because a bad run means the end of a season as far as winning the overall.
that was either pair of truvativs i believe....it wasn't gravity lights....may have been some other gravity cranks but not the lights......i actually think i just bent my left gravity light crank though......i have to throw a new pair of pedals on the bike to find outSure about that buddy?
Just becasue Hill is fast, doesnt mean his cranks miraculously become stronger... There has been a few occasions in which he has bent cranks mid run at World Cup level, then theres all the other times...
In any case, a DH crank should take more than one faily insignificant hit to bend them.
Yess, these are the ones.is this the hones you are talking about?Hone FC-M601-2. 2 ring crankset with outer ring replaced by a 5mm thick bash guard.
Features and Information
* Hollowtech II design, right arm includes integrated 24mm O.D. spindle
* Includes BB set for 68mm or 73mm BB shell
* E-type front derailleur compatible
* Outer ring replaced with a 5mm thick bash guard
Item Specifications
Color Gray
Crank/FD Type Mountain
BB Shell Width 68,73 mm
Crank Intended Use DH/Freeride,Mountain
Chain Compatibility 9-Speed
BB Thread Type English
Spindle Interface Type Hollowtech II
Pedal Spindle Thread 9/16"
Bolt Pattern 4-Bolt
Chainring BCD 104,64 mm