You should consider doing a cut as I have shown here, to prevent some serious crushing of metal on full bottom. Look at the last one too. Take the spring off and bottom the shock to see that it will hit.
Just FYI, that pic you posted (of my bike, not Jorgen's) already has the modification that you are recomending.....it was filed for clearance and then painted.
But yes there is potential for metal on metal contact at that point...AND in the main pivot shell. ALL of this was covered back on page one of this thread..
Holes are the same size (6mm) although they do look different in that pic (although it would not really matter as the pivot axle is pinched tight by the mount bolt)...I think because the new hole is lower as it is along the circumfrence of the arc from the main pivot. The second hole is exactly the same distance from the main pivot, rather than being along a horizontal line.
finally got my first ride on the bike after the mod..
It felt exactly how you guys said it would.. I loved how stable it was and how it shot out of corners.
I thought though bike was still as nimble as it was before the mod..
just my 2cents. thanks for the help guys!
Mega grave bump, but this thread is awesome and just saved me a bunch of money on a "new school" frame.
Drilled out my 2001 DHR Saturday morning using the davep method - 9mm back and 1 or so down, along the arc of the main pivot. Went from 66/67 degrees at 14.5"ish BB to 63/64 degrees, 13.5" BB and added 1/2" to the wheelbase. I didn't check for clearance as the '01 only has 7.6" travel but I definitely bottomed it out while riding and there was no drama.
Rode Windham Mountain later that day and was absolutely loving it!! Smashed the pedals once or twice on the Citizens DH course but it flat out railed the berm/jump trails! Also noticed the added stability on the steeps and when ripping through gnarly rock gardens.
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