Future of the DW Turner DHR?
- Thread starter richgardiner
- Start date
Not with that bike. I live in Seattle.
Apparently he has an evil twin on the best coast.
BTR, i wanna say the Ranger.
BTR Ranger. It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.
https://www.btr-fabrications.com/product/ranger/
Geometry. The Ranger is way lower, way slacker, and designed around a shorter fork. Also, 26".
whats the HA on that hardtail?? looks as slacked as my DHR.. probably camera angle
BTR makes a dh ht with a 61* head angle. 
You should check the headangle on your dh bike while sagged some time. 
The hardtail can only get steeper.
The hardtail can only get steeper.
63.5.
Like 'woo said, that's a lot less insane than it sounds. For one, it only gets steeper as it goes through its travel. For another, between the short stays and short travel fork (120mm travel) the wheelbase isn't that long, and the front wheel isn't really that far out in front of you. It rips.
The future of the DHR is good, and the DHX2 feels as silky smooth as a top shelf Vegas stripper.
Next stop, Shred the Gnar™
Next stop, Shred the Gnar™
????
how far back (-X axis, drive-side view) would the DHR axle have to go to fit a 650 wheel and 2.5" DHF?
im looking at the hanger itself
machineability wise it is do-able to alter it, but how many things will get screwed up? (leverage ratio, brake mount location, bb height, ha angle)
heres a nice large drive-side picture for reference
and I would obviously do the exact same for the non-drive side "hanger"
winter boredom has struck and its not even winter yet
how far back (-X axis, drive-side view) would the DHR axle have to go to fit a 650 wheel and 2.5" DHF?
im looking at the hanger itself
machineability wise it is do-able to alter it, but how many things will get screwed up? (leverage ratio, brake mount location, bb height, ha angle)
heres a nice large drive-side picture for reference
and I would obviously do the exact same for the non-drive side "hanger"
winter boredom has struck and its not even winter yet
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haha shit. lets rewind.
im coming from a totally 'custom fab' welder/ machinist kind of angle.. if i get my hands on a spare DW DHR rear i will consider doing some fun fabricating to it( yes, lengthening it ). I was stirring the pot to see what would get fucked up geometry wise/ suspension rate wise, if i somehow moved the axle back 0.75" or something
there is a thick as chunk of aluminum( where the axle comes through apparently ) that looks like it could be plugged properly, add material properly, mill it, and transfer the bolt pattern "to the left" if you are looking at it from the driveside
maybe this belongs in a frame building subsection...
im coming from a totally 'custom fab' welder/ machinist kind of angle.. if i get my hands on a spare DW DHR rear i will consider doing some fun fabricating to it( yes, lengthening it ). I was stirring the pot to see what would get fucked up geometry wise/ suspension rate wise, if i somehow moved the axle back 0.75" or something
there is a thick as chunk of aluminum( where the axle comes through apparently
) that looks like it could be plugged properly, add material properly, mill it, and transfer the bolt pattern "to the left" if you are looking at it from the drivesidemaybe this belongs in a frame building subsection...
Ride brakeless!I was stirring the pot to see what would get fucked up geometry wise/ suspension rate wise, if i somehow moved the axle back 0.75" or something
there is a thick as chunk of aluminum( where the axle comes through apparently
Get in touch.
they really guillotined the DHR huh..
Wouldn't you run into seat tube interference on full compression if all you did was somehow lengthen the stays?
I don't get the hype over switching to 650b...
You'll raise your BB about half an inch, maybe as much as 3/4"
You'll have to lengthen your chainstays the same amount
The shock rate and everything else will stay the same, presuming that you put a proper 650b fork on it.
In the end, you'll be left with a bike that's cobbled together with a taller BB and even longer chainstays (we're talking 18" here) and like 3/4" extra "rollover". It might even be less sellable than the 26" version
My suggestion- just ride the damned bike as a 26, enjoy all the tools selling their near new parts for next to nothing. If you really want "added rollover" just put on some 2.7s instead of 2.5s and save yourself all that money.
You'll raise your BB about half an inch, maybe as much as 3/4"
You'll have to lengthen your chainstays the same amount
The shock rate and everything else will stay the same, presuming that you put a proper 650b fork on it.
In the end, you'll be left with a bike that's cobbled together with a taller BB and even longer chainstays (we're talking 18" here) and like 3/4" extra "rollover". It might even be less sellable than the 26" version
My suggestion- just ride the damned bike as a 26, enjoy all the tools selling their near new parts for next to nothing. If you really want "added rollover" just put on some 2.7s instead of 2.5s and save yourself all that money.
Fear of missing out.
Drives about 90% of high end bike sales.
Drives about 90% of high end bike sales.
650b fomo! lmao
your right.. dreaming alittle too big here. that's what happens when the temp drops, stuck in the apartment with the DH bike and beers.
You could take the bike, beer and some warm gloves to a hill and have a blast.
This might be your best post ever.
Fear of missing out combined with a healthy marketing driven dose of the bike i'm currently riding is why i'm slow/can't jump/brake-in-the-turns/etc and this bike/part will surely solve all my problems.
There's nothing wrong with thinking outside the box. I just think you'd end up with a significantly worse bike trying to get a very very small performance gain switching to bigger wheels.
And this is coming from somebody who rides a 29er by choice...
Cram a 2.7 in there and get a front wheel and fork with six hundred and fifty BEEEES. Bonus points for a BOOOOOST front end.
I say hold out for the Boost version of RUX
gunu be tearing down the DHR so i can drill holes everywhere ( jk, clear coating the raw look so it stays shiny and not grey oxidized look )
knocking out the bearings; can i lightly tap out the bearings with a certain sized socket with a plastic mallet? or is there a specific tool i should be using
and hopefully turner has DHR stickers
thanks
knocking out the bearings; can i lightly tap out the bearings with a certain sized socket with a plastic mallet? or is there a specific tool i should be using
and hopefully turner has DHR stickers
thanks
I really wouldn't advertise you're riding that thing in public.
Prolly should get some pivot stickers.
Pivot supports downhilling.
Yes in 2015, that sentence is actually true.
Thanks Obama!
@TrumbullHucker why on earth would You put 650b wheels on that bike? Just put on some tires with a bigger casing, You will gain much more from that, than from switching to that 650b BS...
Unless you're powdercoating, I'd be lazy and try to avoid removing bearings. You'll want to tape off the bearing surfaces anyway, so really no extra taping-work. If the bearings run well, Id just tape them meticulously and spray that fucker!
Are you gonna polish it first?
dude, just raw it and leave it. trust me.
it will eventually oxidize again even with the clear coat. need to do nickel or chrome plating to keep it looking "shiny". you would be better off just polishing it when you feel like it IMO. also, the DHR pivots are pretty much indestructibru, so I doubt they need to be replaced