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Fux My Rear HUB!

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WhoRyder

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2007
1,834
0
NYC
I have the WTB Laser Disc hub.. while it light and strong, this hub sucks for Horizontal Dropouts.... I have this hub laced with Rhino lights on my BlackMarket MOB....



The Allen key nuts do not tighten tight enough to hold the rear wheel... i put chain tugs in but they still shift....

I even put a quick release on it... same deal...

very very annoying...

Anyone know of a nice cheap reliable hub with a Solid Axle?
 
Last edited:
Stoked

Stoked

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2004
1,809
1
LI, NY
what are you using to tighten the allen bolt? long handle wrench or a multi tool?

maybe the pc that sits in your dropout is wider than the dropout and the bolt is bottoming out before it gets tight.
 
sittingduck

sittingduck

Turbo Monkey
Jun 22, 2007
1,958
2
Oregon
w00dy said:
There's some guy who's been posting pics of his nashbar hub with an oddyssey driver forever. That looks pretty cheap and tough.
Click to expand...
That would be me! Paid more for the driver than I did for the hub too. And it's held up great for about 3 years now. It's not light though.
They were $35 back then, $50 now.
 
W

WhoRyder

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2007
1,834
0
NYC
Stoked said:
what are you using to tighten the allen bolt? long handle wrench or a multi tool?

maybe the pc that sits in your dropout is wider than the dropout and the bolt is bottoming out before it gets tight.
Click to expand...
I used a Allen Key wrench tool..... It's hard to explain..... I iwll get some Washers/Spacers and attempt to run it like that, and see if it works, but if not i'm going to need a new hub, and that 50.00 dollar one looks like it will do that job for me...

I'll show you this weekend at Cunningham.... every 5 minutes i have to check and make sure the wheels is lined right....
 
Bikael Molton

Bikael Molton

goofy for life
Jun 9, 2003
4,088
1,235
El Lay
there should be a supplied / built-in washer between the bolt head and the outside of the dropout. If that isn't on the hub, then it has gone missing and will cause problems with tightening. Also, clean/degrease that bolt head, and the inside dust cap on the hub that grips the inside of the dropout. clean/degrease the dropouts too. On new frames, the hub bolts/dust caps often tear paint off the frame where they are seated. That crunched-up paint grit may cause slippage. Clean that off.

Try a quality, long (6" or more) allen key. OR get allen sockets for your socket wrench.



Most MTB singlespeed hubs and many BMX hubs have the same axle set-up as you (bolts into a female axle). Major slippage shouldn't be an issue if everything is clean and set up correctly.
 
eaterofdog

eaterofdog

ass grabber
Sep 8, 2006
9,185
2,690
Central Florida
If your axle is close to being slammed in the drop outs, you can stick a small metal bit like a ball bearing into the gap and install as usual. The axle traps the bearing when it starts to slide forward.
 
W

WhoRyder

Turbo Monkey
Nov 28, 2007
1,834
0
NYC
eaterofdog said:
If your axle is close to being slammed in the drop outs, you can stick a small metal bit like a ball bearing into the gap and install as usual. The axle traps the bearing when it starts to slide forward.
Click to expand...
that ad this is is doesn't move in, the non-drive side pulls out....
 
jcaramia

jcaramia

Monkey
Oct 28, 2007
914
0
Clifton, NJ
Dave, if your gonna get a new hub, why not get a standard mtb hub and put a ss conversion kit on it. I've been doing that for the past 2 years and have had no problems. Just get any 9speed 10x135 hub, space everything out and bolt on the cog. You'll need to get a 10 mm axle and some chain tensioners(which you have). I have a 12x135 with a 12mm reducer axle. (reduces to 10mm) And some sockets to crank down on them bolts.
 
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