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Gearing n shit...1x?

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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So I'm looking for a new road bike, and I'm basically in love with the 3T strada. I don't know why- I don't need an aero road bike, I don't compete, there are plenty of disc-equipped comfortable aero bikes now. Also, I originally cringed at the idea of 1x on a road bike, where literally all you do is spin at as close to a constant cadence as possible for a long time.

That being said, with the advent of 12 speed, I've found I can completely replicate the range of my 12-27 x 36/52 with a 10-33 x 44. In fact, the total number of 1t jumps on my current cassette is the same as the 12s. The % jump is slightly higher on the low gears, but everything is below 15% until the two lowest gears.



So...any thoughts? I'm starting to get on board with the idea of 1x as here in new england, everything is rolling and there really are no extended climbs. There are no long descents, either. I'm hoping to start group rides in the spring, but it's unlikely I'll ever be in a pro-style peloton.
 

6thElement

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Jul 29, 2008
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On my MTB's with a 10 cog it's not a "clean" rotation as I spin out my high gear. Not saying it's turning a square on the rear, but I can (in my mind) feel the small cog. I think the version of the bike you linked the other day just had a 50T at the front, no way I'd want just that, 44T looks more manageable.

At the other end though, in NY I needed 34/25 low gear for the climbs in the surrounding states, which matches with your ratio's above. Where I am now though I like having slightly lower again 34/28 saving the rear 32 cog as a bail out in a couple of local spots. Not sure how those last couple of higher % jumps would feel, probably fine once you're used to them.

If you're happy the low end will be low enough to last you several years as you age and you're not planning on climbing Mt Washington in a headwind any time soon. Then it looks like the ratio's will work for you.
 

Sandwich

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Thanks for the advice. I agree about the 10t. 3T actually sells a 9-32t cogset that has 1t shifts from 9-10-11 and so on, but the idea of turning a 9 and 10t on an efficient drivetrain seems pretty stupid. Still though, the 10t should be used pretty sparingly- I know I spin out pretty rarely on my road bike, and at that point I'm usually hitting enough wind to warrant tucking rather than pedaling.

I think the other bike I linked does come with a 50t chainring, but 3t's website says an 11-36 cogset. That might be low enough for some things around here, but it also will come with larger jumps than I would prefer. An 11-34 or even 11-32 with a 42 or 44 would probably work, with some gaps at the bottom, but I think 12sp solves some major issues with the 1x concept on road.

Also, one major reason for considering a 1x gearset around here is that I find myself needing to shift more often than I would like on the front. I can typically run in the small ring happily through the cluster, but then I start to spin out and need to shift up to the big ring before cross chaining. Then on the big ring I'm happy but I start to get bogged down on the long, shallow climbs and need to shift back down. So then I find myself going front shift-3x rear shifts, front shift 3x rear shifts way more than I would like just to keep my cadence happy and give myself bandwidth to keep going. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong with my shifts though.
 

Sandwich

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Oh, I'd be using sram force axs etap for this gearing, btw. Shimano doesn't have 12s yet
 

Muddy

ancient crusty bog dude
I'd suggested a 1x road bike build to a shop recently. Was a 'Rabbit Hole' I'd been told.
3T and Aqua Blue Sport could not cope with it during the Tour last year. That's racing though and, likely someone bodged a Red22 CR on there with the XX1 Chain.
I've got almost 4500 miles on a 1x set up for 3 seasons now. Could go out for 45mins on Stowe, climb 1500 ft and push out 15 miles. Other rides would see similar elevation-per-mile (100ft avg) and I'd had no problem; was also never on a road-style bike or, having ridden 2x. Gearset would be 46t x 11-36 SRAM Force1 or 38t if doing hill climbs.
Your gearing seems on point. It's efficient but, replace chains more often. Drivetrain throb sets in after one dirty gravel ride.

You do the whole ride-with-watts thing? My road bike build is stored onto Strava and have pretty huge discrepancy if I upload a 5lb lighter bike, instead of my 21.5lb Ridley.

EVGACnsv.jpg
 

Sandwich

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Thanks for the real world feedback. I decided to go for it. The deal was too good on the Strada and I like my gearset now, just not the constant shifting up front. I think this is a bit of a two birds thing, but we'll see. I might be gravely disappointed, but I doubt it. This is eastern mass, there are no mountains, and if anything I'll struggle with climbs (which I have not struggled with yet) and can probably swap to a smaller ring.

I read as much as I could about aqua blue...I'm not sure that 1x is truly suited to the highest level of racing around. And they only had 11s when they did it anyways. I think 12/13/14spd makes sense in this aspect. I'm not sure it's necessary to have a 26" ring on your cassette.
 

Sandwich

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I'd suggested a 1x road bike build to a shop recently. Was a 'Rabbit Hole' I'd been told.
3T and Aqua Blue Sport could not cope with it during the Tour last year. That's racing though and, likely someone bodged a Red22 CR on there with the XX1 Chain.
I've got almost 4500 miles on a 1x set up for 3 seasons now. Could go out for 45mins on Stowe, climb 1500 ft and push out 15 miles. Other rides would see similar elevation-per-mile (100ft avg) and I'd had no problem; was also never on a road-style bike or, having ridden 2x. Gearset would be 46t x 11-36 SRAM Force1 or 38t if doing hill climbs.
Your gearing seems on point. It's efficient but, replace chains more often. Drivetrain throb sets in after one dirty gravel ride.

You do the whole ride-with-watts thing? My road bike build is stored onto Strava and have pretty huge discrepancy if I upload a 5lb lighter bike, instead of my 21.5lb Ridley.

View attachment 138724
I don't do the ride-with-watts thing...I'm just getting started, really.
 

Muddy

ancient crusty bog dude
Not knocking just asking for clarification. 100' gain per mile?

I wish.
The Gravel routes are nearly all residential in Stowe unless entering into Land Trust and Mountain Bike trails. 100ft elevation per mile is what turns into the average. Fifteen, Thirty, Fifty, Sixty-Two miles -- loop-rides show 1500, 3000, 5000, 6200ft. of climbing.

I don't do the ride-with-watts thing...I'm just getting started, really.
Uploaded a 3hour ride over the weekend to the wrong bike. Difference in wattage estimate from Strava has me wondering how to interpret it properly. It's all after the effort for me, smartphone only - no segment alerts or minding a computer to remind me I'm riding.
 

6thElement

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In fairness living in NYC I always aimed for as much climbing as possible on my 100 mile road loops, 1000ft/10 miles being the objective, but tough to get to. They were normally a lot less. So the same ratio as your 100/1.

In CO where I am now, it's tough to do a road ride with under 1000ft/10 miles.
 

Nick

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Sep 21, 2001
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behind you, don't wait up.
In fairness living in NYC I always aimed for as much climbing as possible on my 100 mile road loops, 1000ft/10 miles being the objective, but tough to get to. They were normally a lot less. So the same ratio as your 100/1.

In CO where I am now, it's tough to do a road ride with under 1000ft/10 miles.
the climb up Lookout Mtn Rd from my house to yours must be 500'/mile.
 

6thElement

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the climb up Lookout Mtn Rd from my house to yours must be 500'/mile.
Probably about 350ft average. But remember round trip there's no climbing on the way down.

I think it used to be 12 miles/2000ft round trip to buffalo bills from our old place on Ford st. I used to be able to do that in 55 mins during a lunch hour hammer.

edit: 12m/1600ft for that out and back, so 290ft/mile average on the actual climb up.
 
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Sandwich

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strada is 1x only. I suppose I could bondo a FD mount on...

I think it'll be fine. Right now my biggest debate is 42 or 44t front ring.
 

Sandwich

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particular reason why? 44 matches my current range...I'm not sure whether I want to get one cog lower, so I can climb steeper things/climb longer than what I have now. New bike should be considerably lighter, more aero, and by the spring I should be in even better shape if I keep up with pelotoning/losing weight...but if I'm riding longer and faster, I may want the ability to bail out on the way back...
 

Sandwich

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I think SRAM forceps has the ability to add blip shifters to each side....and that's how the shifters work, left is down and right is up, both together to shift the front ring
 

jonKranked

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particular reason why? 44 matches my current range...I'm not sure whether I want to get one cog lower, so I can climb steeper things/climb longer than what I have now. New bike should be considerably lighter, more aero, and by the spring I should be in even better shape if I keep up with pelotoning/losing weight...but if I'm riding longer and faster, I may want the ability to bail out on the way back...
i guess that's more of a personal assessment on my end, what little road riding i do is just about pancake flat, so i never find myself running out of gear on the low end.
 

Sandwich

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First ride update-
love it. AXS is fast and clean, and the range on this cassette is just about perfect. I think I used my lowest gear once or twice on the same climbs I used my lowest gear before, and had plenty of room to go faster. AXS is expensive as hell and a pain in the ass with the specific chainring and chain tool I needed, but I loved not having to dick around with a front shifter. Drivetrain is pretty quiet and it is neat not having rattly cables or anything. I did notice a few times where I wanted to be slightly faster or slower (ie big gear gap), but A) my old drivetrain has a TON of overlap and B) I think I'll get used to it quickly.
 

6thElement

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I have the same 10-33 cassette but with 46/33 cranks for wife's new roadie.

Same top end as her current 11-32, 50/34, but slightly easier low gear.

Partially built at the moment with more parts turning up this week, BB and bars. LB wheels are probably another couple of weeks at least.
 

Sandwich

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Coronavirus has single handedly (virally?) prevented me from buying dumb shit from china. $20 spec power knockoff saddle? NO SOUP FOR YOU
 

amishmatt

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Sep 21, 2005
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LB wheels are the only thing I buy direct from China. I only buy from their China warehouse because you can get the no decal option for rims, and in this case 350 hubs, both if which are not available from the NA warehouse.

Tracking has updated and the wheels are in NY.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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I have liked ordering small parts from china. My centerlock adapters came from there, a stem for my kid's bike, some other things. Will buy some carbon spacers once corona passes... maybe some knockoff POC sunglasses.
 

6thElement

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When did you order?

I ordered a wheelset on Jan. 11. It finally shipped on Feb. 26, but tracking hasn't updated since then.
I think a couple of weeks ago, checking the status page a day ago they were about to be laced I think.
 

amishmatt

Turbo Monkey
Sep 21, 2005
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Mine came in on Saturday right before I left for a week of vacation. Got them setup and on the bike yesterday and did a nice 70 mi. mixed surface ride. Wheels are great, tires are too damn big and heavy on this bike.

IMG_4923.jpg
 

6thElement

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Wife's wheels shipped yesterday/today. Let's see how long they take from Gina.
 

Sandwich

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new bike is fucking dope. I know strava is frowned upon around these parts, but on my last ride I set PRs in 11/17 segments, which included several I have never ridden before. I both feel faster and AM faster on this bike. #itsworking