[aham73]

Very excited to ride in 2012. Going to race more, and I'm pumped to see what the new management of former Diablo Freeride Park has to offer. I'm riding a 2011 Trek Session 8, and need to get my bike race ready.

Bike status: No real problems. Recently rebuilt the Boxxer, but the bike overall feels a bit creeky and off. I plan on basically disassembling the thing and rebuilding it, re-torquing and greasing everything as I go. Do you guys have any tips or tricks for getting ready for a big DH season? Last season my bike was new and didn't need much except cockpit adjustments to get dialed in. This year I have wear and tear, creaks and squeaks, to deal with.

I just bought a pair of Kenda Excavator 2.5 DH Sticky and some Deity Compound pedals, along with TLD ODI grips to keep the bike rolling fresh this season.

Upgrades otherwise are as follows:
Saint rear mech, Gore cable
Deity Fantom DM stem
34T e13 Guidering

This thread would make a good place for general/overall DH bike prep tips and tricks.

Thanks!

 

[ruralrider]

I usually clean everything on the bike, get all of the grit out. Get some new bearings for everything, wheels, frame pivots, bottom bracket. If the bearings are nice and smooth just get the sizes for them and have them on hand. Fresh oil for the fork and shock, cables and housing.

 

[klunky]

My tip would be to not run gore cables. They are a pain the ass for me.
Shimano SS wire with full length SP41 outer. Run it till it feels crap then change it in 5 minutes.

 

[SinatorJ]

My tip would be to not run gore cables. They are a pain the ass for me.
Shimano SS wire with full length SP41 outer. Run it till it feels crap then change it in 5 minutes.

If I lived back east and wanted the Best shifting possible I would run Gore cables. They do require a precise set-up, but the benefits are awesome. I only say this because I ran them for years when I raced XC back east and I work for Gore here in Flag. Awesome product, comes stock with SRAM red. Don't forget to true your wheels.

 

[bizutch]

If I lived back east and wanted the Best shifting possible I would run Gore cables. They do require a precise set-up, but the benefits are awesome. I only say this because I ran them for years when I raced XC back east and I work for Gore here in Flag. Awesome product, comes stock with SRAM red. Don't forget to true your wheels.

I know an industry insider.
I know an industry insider.
I KNOW an industry insider.

What's your address?

 

[Sandwich]

Nice thread.

True/retension your wheels, particularly if they are machine built like outlaws. While you're at it, check the bearings to make sure they still work. My last set of outlaws lasted about a season and a half before needing new rears.

Bleed your brakes. Just do it, don't complain. Check your pads for life span and replace if necessary. Throw your old ones in the toolbox in case you foul or ruin one of the new ones.

Maintain your fork if necessary. Might be worth replacing the damper fluid while you're at it, if you can.

New cable and possibly housing. I got three years out of my high quality alligator fortress housing, but I replaced the cable.

Clean ALL the things. This was the biggest one for me, simply taking the bike apart, cleaning every part really well, then putting it back together will show you any and all issues with it and give you easy access to replacing bolts/bearings or just cleaning out dirt.

 

[aham73]

Nice thread.

True/retension your wheels, particularly if they are machine built like outlaws. While you're at it, check the bearings to make sure they still work. My last set of outlaws lasted about a season and a half before needing new rears.

Bleed your brakes. Just do it, don't complain. Check your pads for life span and replace if necessary. Throw your old ones in the toolbox in case you foul or ruin one of the new ones.

Maintain your fork if necessary. Might be worth replacing the damper fluid while you're at it, if you can.

New cable and possibly housing. I got three years out of my high quality alligator fortress housing, but I replaced the cable.

Clean ALL the things. This was the biggest one for me, simply taking the bike apart, cleaning every part really well, then putting it back together will show you any and all issues with it and give you easy access to replacing bolts/bearings or just cleaning out dirt.

Yeah I am most excited to take everything apart and clean all mating surfaces and regrease bolts/friction points. I might also get rid of the Deore shifter. It's a total piece of ****e. I had problems with my rear mech cable getting ripped out by trail debris last season, so the gore cable is fresh. And since they're $50, I'm going to keep that jawn for this season too!

I'm also wondering if it's time to move up a spring level in my boxxer. But that will have to wait till I get the thing on trails. Now that I'm faster, I end up riding low in the front after high speed hits. I can try and combat this with rebound and LSC, but IDK if it's going to ride correctly. Might be overly dampened and ride harsh.

How do you guys feel about the new super wide handlebars that are coming out?

 

[jonKranked]

Very excited to ride in 2012. Going to race more, and I'm pumped to see what Mountain Creek Bike Park has to offer. I'm riding a 2011 Trek Session 8, and need to get my bike race ready.

Bike status: No real problems. Recently rebuilt the Boxxer, but the bike overall feels a bit creeky and off. I plan on basically disassembling the thing and rebuilding it, re-torquing and greasing everything as I go. Do you guys have any tips or tricks for getting ready for a big DH season? Last season my bike was new and didn't need much except cockpit adjustments to get dialed in. This year I have wear and tear, creaks and squeaks, to deal with.

I just bought a pair of Kenda Excavator 2.5 DH Sticky and some Deity Compound pedals, along with TLD ODI grips to keep the bike rolling fresh this season.

Upgrades otherwise are as follows:
Saint rear mech, Gore cable
Deity Fantom DM stem
34T e13 Guidering

This thread would make a good place for general/overall DH bike prep tips and tricks.

Thanks!

FTFY.

The old name is now blasphemy, and shall no longer be spoken.

 

[IH8Rice]

How do you guys feel about the new super wide handlebars that are coming out?

which new wide bars are you talking about? anything wider then 31" is ridiculous unless your 6'11.5" like HuckBanzai

 

[Sandwich]

Get at least 760mm, it's worth it. Hell, get 800 and then cut to size. Nobody I know has ever said their handlebars are too long, but they'll sit and make fun of other people for it. Had a buddy make fun of me excessively for my 32" long Kore torsions. I got rid of them after a couple of seasons (seemed like a good idea after my e13 stem put some wear marks on them) and he now rides them. Shut him right up.

To aham, if it's a 35mm boxxer and you need springs, let me know. I have 2 of every flavor besides firm.

 

[ruralrider]

if you have long arms and a wide grip grab some wider bars. they were much more comfy and natural feeling for me. If you are shorter and have a narrower reach cut em down to what feels good.

 

[buildyourown]

Get at least 760mm, it's worth it. Hell, get 800 and then cut to size. Nobody I know has ever said their handlebars are too long,

I love long bars, but they can be too long. I bought 800s and rode them for a few months. Cut them to 780 and I think they are perfect. So yes, I went a bit too long and came back. Put my wife on 745 and they are perfect for her AM bike.

 

[aham73]

I'm going to keep the Bonty bars for now. If I feel the need to go longer, I'll grab some Deitys early season.

Took apart the front end. Regreased and reassembled the headset, front brake, bar/stem/cups, trued front wheel.

 

[amishmatt]

Buy the Deity bars, they rock. Dirty 30s or Blacklabels. Until you try wider, you don't know what you're missing. Once you go wide, you'll never go back.