[SirChomps-a-Lot]

My old bmx had chain tugs, so getting the right tension on the chain was easy. New bike has no tugs, and I can't seem to get the right tension.

Any special techniques to try? I don't really want to buy tugs.

 

[Bikael Molton]

1) use a bigger wrench

2) sand the dropouts on both inside and outside so the hub and bolts can get a better grip.

3) Simple wheel slammers (i wish they made these in 3/8")

 

[opjones]

I wedge a hammer handle, or something along those lines, between the seat tube and tire while the bike is upside down and push forward while I tighten the nuts.

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

I wedge a hammer handle, or something along those lines, between the seat tube and tire while the bike is upside down and push forward while I tighten the nuts.

Dude! That's genius. I don't know why I didn't think of that.

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

1) use a bigger wrench

2) sand the dropouts on both inside and outside so the hub and bolts can get a better grip.

3) Simple wheel slammers (i wish they made these in 3/8")

I don't have any problems with slipping... Is that what those wheel slammers are for? I don't get it.

 

[Bikael Molton]

sorry - thought slipping was the issue, not alignment!

For alignment, I just use one hand to hold the tire between the chainstay yoke while tightening driveside bolt with my other hand.

 

[sittingduck]

I always shake my head when I see kids trying to tighten their chains.
It's so simple if you just use a little common sense.
Pull the wheel back.
Snug the non-drive side.
Grab the tire near the bottom bracket and pull it toward the chainring.
Snug the drive side.
Spin the cranks and check chain tension.
Check the wheel alignment, adjust with the non drive side.
Make sure both sides are tight.
Go ride.

 

[opjones]

I always shake my head when I see kids trying to tighten their chains.
It's so simple if you just use a little common sense.
Pull the wheel back.
Snug the non-drive side.
Grab the tire near the bottom bracket and pull it toward the chainring.
Snug the drive side.
Spin the cranks and check chain tension.
Check the wheel alignment, adjust with the non drive side.
Make sure both sides are tight.
Go ride.

Okay I can't believe we're about to start a debate on how to tighten you rear wheel, but here we go.

While that may work easily and get the job done, it puts uneven side loads on the bearings and will wear them faster.

 

[A Grove]

The design behind hubs is to prevent side load (IE. bearing races). How would that being putting uneven side load on the bearings?

Or am I mis-understanding something....

 

[cmc]

Not clear exactly what Sir Chomps' question is.... He says it's chain tension...but then says his wheel isn't slipping.... Huh?

Anyway, if slipping actually is this issue.... a lot of times, especially with older bmx bikes, the rear wheel's inside hexagonal lock nuts create a ridge/ groove/indentation on the inside of the dropouts. The wheel wants to keep slipping back into that spot.

An easy way to fix that is to put washers on the inside of the dropouts. They may have to be thin washers depending how much space you have. Some frame/wheel combos may not leave any room for extra washers.

 

[sittingduck]

While that may work easily and get the job done, it puts uneven side loads on the bearings and will wear them faster.

Wow, really? I just can't see that.... I'd think a g-turn or a half-assed 180 would put 100 times more pressure on them.
What do you mean by "uneven"? if your bearings are tight, I don't think there's any way you could hurt them with the method I described.

 

[A Grove]

^ agreed...

 

[sittingduck]

I don't have any problems with slipping... Is that what those wheel slammers are for? I don't get it.

The wheel slammers are just shims. you have to get the right size so that your axle and the slammers are all touching the inside end of the dropouts. Like having your wheel "slammed" all the way up in the dropouts. I think it's a bad idea, since I tighten a new chain up 3 or 4 times over the life of it. I'd need 3 or 4 sets of slammers for each stage of chain growth.

 

[opjones]

Wow, really? I just can't see that.... I'd think a g-turn or a half-assed 180 would put 100 times more pressure on them.
What do you mean by "uneven"? if your bearings are tight, I don't think there's any way you could hurt them with the method I described.

Hmmmm, you may be correct, I always just thought that tightening one side and torque the wheel over would cause a constant side load on the bearings. It just doesn't seem that would be a correct method of tightening down a hub/axle.

 

[sittingduck]

Hmmmm, you may be correct, I always just thought that tightening one side and torque the wheel over would cause a constant side load on the bearings. It just doesn't seem that would be a correct method of tightening down a hub/axle.

I think the only way you could create the situation you are suggesting is if you somehow bent the dropouts. Even then, I think most hubs would be just fine.

 

[JGill]

Not that it's too helpful...but I put my bike in the rack on my car and secure the front wheel and leave the back wheel unsecured and tighten the chain that way. It's a Yakima Hold-Up that is a hitch mount with trays that you don't have to remove the front wheel to use. I always found it easier to do it in there vs. my repair stand. I tighten the drive side first though and check the tightness twice on each side before I call it good. Haven't had an issue since I started doing it this way...

 

[t1maglio]

I get my chain tension to where I want it and then tighten the drive side first. Then I just grab the tire brace my hand on the stay and pull towards the non-drive side so that the space between the stays and the tire are the same on both sides and tighten it down.

Leverage and a rough clamping area are key to not slipping. I actually have 14mm dropout and 3/8 axles so I use step washers and my setup has been slip free since I set it up. I used to always run tensioners, I actually still have a Knight on my Tonic, they aren't a bad idea. The little slammer washers are cool as well if you have 14's and know exactly how big the gap is.

 

[DirtBag]

The wheel slammers are just shims. you have to get the right size so that your axle and the slammers are all touching the inside end of the dropouts. Like having your wheel "slammed" all the way up in the dropouts. I think it's a bad idea, since I tighten a new chain up 3 or 4 times over the life of it. I'd need 3 or 4 sets of slammers for each stage of chain growth.

Sittingduck's way works without any hub issues. I always find the tight spot in the chain (if any using splined ) then adjust. I barely snug, check tension all the way around and then lock it down. Never slips.

Agreed on the shims. Once the chain stretches a bit, they are useless unless you have the next size.

 

[Savage_Animal]

Mine always slipped so I would have to adjust it almost every day, but just getting a pair of chain tensioners like this made a huge improvement. I barely touch it once a month now.

 

[xtremedoritoes]

i use the cable buds of brake cables for my riot. You just cut them off of an old cable and they fit right in there. They're about 6mm in width. Then file (or pound) them till you want the right tension. If you need way less than 6mm then use the cable buds off some derailure cable. but similar idea. Why pay for those simple things when you can just use what's lying around?

 

[xtremedoritoes]

like so....

 

[buckoW]

I know it doesn't help much but the new system on my bike works great. There are oval inserts and each is a different length. When you find the right tension you insert the little discs and the wheel can't slip forward (chain torque) or back (brake forces).

 

[Bicyclist]

I always shake my head when I see kids trying to tighten their chains.
It's so simple if you just use a little common sense.
Pull the wheel back.
Snug the non-drive side.
Grab the tire near the bottom bracket and pull it toward the chainring.
Snug the drive side.
Spin the cranks and check chain tension.
Check the wheel alignment, adjust with the non drive side.
Make sure both sides are tight.
Go ride.

This is the correct answer.

 

[Cru Jones]

I wedge a hammer handle, or something along those lines, between the seat tube and tire while the bike is upside down and push forward while I tighten the nuts.

Same.

 

[S4Sean]

i use the cable buds of brake cables for my riot. You just cut them off of an old cable and they fit right in there. They're about 6mm in width. Then file (or pound) them till you want the right tension. If you need way less than 6mm then use the cable buds off some derailure cable. but similar idea. Why pay for those simple things when you can just use what's lying around?

Perfect.
You make me proud to be in the same vicinity as you.
Stamford