the rigged steer tube cutting guide, made with two stems clamped on the fork. bike shops have a special little f*cker that clamps in a vice and guides the hacksaw so you don't cut a crooked cut. but i'm impatient.
bwhahaha, that's awesome. I've got the little park ditty for that job and it works fantastic. You can use those or a pipe cutter which works nice too...
caution !! it doesn't work as well as i thought it would because aluminum (your stem) is softer than the fork steer tube. meaning you can be shaving off a layer of your stem and not knowing it.
that's what makes it ghetto !! tryin really damn hard to be legit, but not quite making it.
but you know what it doesn't even matter if your fork is cut crooked. just get a spacer that's taller than the end of your fork and it evens it out. f*ckin a !
I've got a headset remover that I made out of a pipe.
Just cross cut the end with a hack saw, spread it out a little with a crescent wrench, and viola!
I'm constantly using QR skewers to hold the BB tool on a cup when the splines are questionsble.
I've used 14mm axles w/a few washers to install headsets.
this is one i learned a long time ago, but had to do again this morning.
your axle threads are a little rough causing the axle to spin. the cones are overly tight but you can't clamp down on the axle to hold it....
the ghetto remedy: tighten the wheel down on the outside of your frame.... this locks the axle in place, so you can get the other side's cones to loosen up.....
this is one i learned a long time ago, but had to do again this morning.
your axle threads are a little rough causing the axle to spin. the cones are overly tight but you can't clamp down on the axle to hold it....
the ghetto remedy: tighten the wheel down on the outside of your frame.... this locks the axle in place, so you can get the other side's cones to loosen up....
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