[saruti]

Just a small suggestion
Apply the lip of the tire the day before with the sealing material.
Then when you do it you can even inflate with foot pump and it just stuck right to the sides

 

[bullcrew]

Just a small suggestion
Apply the lip of the tire the day before with the sealing material.
Then when you do it you can even inflate with foot pump and it just stuck right to the sides

This

For no rubber strip this will lock it up.

 

[lamp]

Came here to pout about not being able to seat the bead and get the tire to inflate. Then I see this:

Just a small suggestion
Apply the lip of the tire the day before with the sealing material.
Then when you do it you can even inflate with foot pump and it just stuck right to the sides

edit - re-reading this, it seems saruti is suggesting putting sealant on the sidewall a day before mounting the tire. ****.

 

[TortugaTonta]

I ran the getto tubeless setup in the early 2000's for a while until I got d3.1. I eventually gave up on it because I allways got flats anyway.

When I saw this thread a month or so ago I figured I would give it a try again so when I got my new Butchers I set them up tubeless on my 321s. I was loving it with no worries about snake bites. Then I got a puncture and watched the Stans piss out the hole all over the trail, man that stuff sucks. I remembered why I gave up on it before. Stuffed a tube in and pinch flatted about 50 yards down the trail. Couldn't get the patch to stick from the stans residue so I had to walk 4 or 5 miles back.

I saw this stuff for $6 at Autozone. . . http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Automotive-22-5-60051-8-SealSafe-Sealant/dp/B0042F4FLO so I figured I would give the tubeless one more try. This stuff really works. It sealed the puncture in my Butcher right away with about a dime size drop leaking out as opposed to the 1/4 bottle of Stans that pissed all over the trail.

Give it a try, a lot goopier than Stans. I am happy so far and I would have probably gone back to dh tubes if I didn't try this first.

Also the tip on "painting" the bead with sealant befor inflating is a great one.

 

[bullcrew]

I ran the getto tubeless setup in the early 2000's for a while until I got d3.1. I eventually gave up on it because I allways got flats anyway.

When I saw this thread a month or so ago I figured I would give it a try again so when I got my new Butchers I set them up tubeless on my 321s. I was loving it with no worries about snake bites. Then I got a puncture and watched the Stans piss out the hole all over the trail, man that stuff sucks. I remembered why I gave up on it before. Stuffed a tube in and pinch flatted about 50 yards down the trail. Couldn't get the patch to stick from the stans residue so I had to walk 4 or 5 miles back.

I saw this stuff for $6 at Autozone. . . http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Automotive-22-5-60051-8-SealSafe-Sealant/dp/B0042F4FLO so I figured I would give the tubeless one more try. This stuff really works. It sealed the puncture in my Butcher right away with about a dime size drop leaking out as opposed to the 1/4 bottle of Stans that pissed all over the trail.

Give it a try, a lot goopier than Stans. I am happy so far and I would have probably gone back to dh tubes if I didn't try this first.

Also the tip on "painting" the bead with sealant befor inflating is a great one.

The only flats I get now destroy the tire and unusually include rim damage. Which would have destroyed a tube the difference is the $hitloads of pinchflats I don't have to deal with in between.
Pulled 12 dents (2 have cracks) out of my rear rim the other day and only 1 of those amounted in a flat.
Both cracks on the rim didn't have a flat included and did my race run wth the wall folded over completely tubeless.

Agread sealants sometimes lack but I gashed a tire through the top of the tread and stans sealed it. Got me off the hill but tire was toast.

Your right though its all about the sealant when its needed doing its job, I've been fortunate most of the time others your right I look like a skunk from sealant spraying up the backside.

Going to have to give this a shot, does it have bigger particles than stans?

 

[sbabuser]

An update on the Spank Spike EVO w/ DHF - pulled the ghetto tube, cleaned and taped the rim with electrical tape, and threw in a Mavic valvestem I had in the toolbox. Wouldn't set the beads easily enough, so added the Spank rimstrip, and it is perfect now. The DHF has another ride or two in it, then it'll be time to experiment with the WTB Dissent Race 2.5 I grabbed offa Chainlove for $12.99. I'm anticipating no issues, as the WTB trail tires mount up and hold air well.

 

[bullcrew]

An update on the Spank Spike EVO w/ DHF - pulled the ghetto tube, cleaned and taped the rim with electrical tape, and threw in a Mavic valvestem I had in the toolbox. Wouldn't set the beads easily enough, so added the Spank rimstrip, and it is perfect now. The DHF has another ride or two in it, then it'll be time to experiment with the WTB Dissent Race 2.5 I grabbed offa Chainlove for $12.99. I'm anticipating no issues, as the WTB trail tires mount up and hold air well.

have you tried running the gorilla tape on there?

I will keep my ghetto for glued sidewalls at low psi especially on freeride casings and the lack of sidewall stiffness.
But I know several people who used gorilla tape and the same as you with the mavic valve core with great success.

I have a rim filler tip for rims like the 6.1 or fr600 dt swiss that have a big channel to fill in hte center that at low pressure the bead can try and escape to should it roll.

DEEP CHANNEL TIP:
Specialized S-work cork tape light durable and fills the channel in perfect then run a strip of gorilla tape around it to tape it down, its now flat and sealed.
Tire inflates with hand pump (huge bonus on trail) and has no channel to roll into.
If you tear the gorilla tape the width you need and keep it pulling off the roll at that tear mark it will continue so no need to cut it to size. Just tear it to size.

Gorilla tape is solid stuff really adhesive and seals amazing over holes etc.

Been racing and riding this setup with freeride casings for a couple months and its been flawless for building up the center channel.

 

[TortugaTonta]

Going to have to give this a shot, does it have bigger particles than stans?

I think its a completely different substance but I'm not 100% sure.

Stans is like milk and the Victor stuff is almost like yogurt. It doesn't seem like a lot of fibers just a sticky goopy kind of consistancy.

When I first tried getto tubeless I used a Honda branded product that was pink and had what looked like shredded paper in it. That stuff worked real good but I don't think they sell it anymore.

This is another one that I heard is really good, but they no longer sell at pep boys. Basically most tire guys swear by all their products. . .

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=camel+tire+sealant+12079&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7ADBF_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=6205039587506104957&sa=X&ei=NP1cTtCdFYqDgAfl78znAQ&ved=0CGEQ8wIwCg#

 

[bullcrew]

I think its a completely different substance but I'm not 100% sure.

Stans is like milk and the Victor stuff is almost like yogurt. It doesn't seem like a lot of fibers just a sticky goopy kind of consistancy.

When I first tried getto tubeless I used a Honda branded product that was pink and had what looked like shredded paper in it. That stuff worked real good but I don't think they sell it anymore.

This is another one that I heard is really good, but they no longer sell at pep boys. Basically most tire guys swear by all their products. . .

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=camel+tire+sealant+12079&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7ADBF_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=6205039587506104957&sa=X&ei=NP1cTtCdFYqDgAfl78znAQ&ved=0CGEQ8wIwCg#

Be curious to see what the life is like with it. A latex based semi watery solution with some sort of fibers would be decent. Fibers go in help block hole and latex has more to dry to.

 

[S.K.C.]

So - this resurrection is due to a follow up question and this seemed the most appropriate place:

I was wondering if anyone else were running SPANK rims tubeless. Their proprietary "Bead Nip" design seems in line with the way Mavic UST rims are designed, although for seemingly different reasons. One bead seat (SPANK) is to ensure the bead doesn't slip at low pressures with a tube, and the other (Mavic) is to maintain an air-tight seal w/ a UST tire. These are two unintentionally VERY similar design goals...

Mavic UST bead seat:

SPANK Bead Nip:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Spank-Oozy-EVO-Rims-Tested-2011.html



sbabuser ran his with rim tape and SPANK's rim strip with success but I had a question about SPANK's rim strip:

I'm interpreting the strip is simply a rubber strip intended to cover the spoke holes and not a Stan's type rims strip intended to facilitate a tubeless conversion.

Has anyone else tried SPANK rims tubeless for racing DH, and if so what was your setup, race class, and rider weight?

Also - here is an interesting and actually insightful article from PB about the math behind why wider rims are better for UST apps:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday--Wider-Rims-Are-Better-and-Why-Tubeless-Tires-Burp-.html

 

[Mtn Cycle Shawn]

Would it be advantageous to smear some Stan's on the bead of the tire and on the split tube before installing the tire?

 

[cibibikeru]

Hello guys,

I can see this thread is very old, Very nice guide here, I saw this method of diy tubeless and I wanted to ask: is it ok to have the cut tube caught between the tire bed and the rim bed? Isn't it better to cut the tube right under the rim border so that the tire bed can securely fit directly to the rim material?

I've got this impression that having that piece of tube between tire bed and rim bed can make the tire come off the rim easier as it keeps the tire from fully gripping the rim border, am I wrong?

I can see no one else asked this question so I just wanted to be sure before trying this.

Thank you very much!

 

[Mtn Cycle Shawn]

Yes, you are wrong. The tube is supposed to be between the rim and the tire. Use a roofing blade to cut the excess tube and you won't even be able to see it.

 

[scottbrixie]

I was running my Outlaws with this set up for a while...beat the hell out them with Hans Dampf tires. Not a single issue....

 

[blindboxx2334]

sorry if this has already been answered, i read through most of this thread but didnt see anything.. is the gorilla tape method less effective than the tube method?

considering doing ghetto tubeless on my dh bike when i build it.. i just like the idea if i F something up i can put a tube back in and use the gorilla tape as a rim strip.

 

[bdamschen]

I have a normal rim strip plus the cut tube on all my ghetto tubeless setup. If I get a flat in the middle of nowhere I can just pull the cut tube out. wipe out all the extra stans(gross and probably dirty by that point) and throw a regular tube in there to be on my way.

So far that has only happened to me when I flat spotted my rim so bad that the tube would no longer seal to the tire.

 

[blindboxx2334]

hmmm. well the main reason i wanted to do just gorilla tape was for the issue of a flat.. and i couldnt figure out what the hell the OP is talking about between the pix at the end of step 4, step 5, and the beginning pic at step 8 (i feel so dumb):

1st pic has the tube overlap hanging out, then when hes putting the glue on the bead of the tire its not there, then on step 8 he tells you to cut the excess off..? (thought he already did)

although im a visual learner and ive yet to watch any videos on youtube about the tube conversion.. maybe ill want to spring for that once i watch a video or two..


edit:
please let me know if someone has done only the gorilla tape method, i saw the write up on PB about it but im going to take that with a grain of salt.. because is PB

i also find it funny that that if you put a tube in your 'tubeless setup', your technically not tubeless.

 

[fred.r]

]
edit:
please let me know if someone has done only the gorilla tape method, i saw the write up on PB about it but im going to take that with a grain of salt.. because is PB

i also find it funny that that if you put a tube in your 'tubeless setup', your technically not tubeless.

I've been running the Gorilla Tape tubeless setup on my trail bike for maybe a year now and have had minimal issues. I used a valve stem from a Q-Tube (removable core) that I cut from punctured old tubes instead of expensive ones from Stan's, Mavic or any of the other manufactures.

 

[blindboxx2334]

cool thanks!

another dumb question: i know some rims are drilled for presta, while others are drilled for schrader.. does that mean your valve stem has to match what the rim is drilled for to pull off tubeless successfully? i could tell the OP was using presta (obvious), but i couldnt see what the rim was drilled for..

i really need to watch a couple videos of this to get this down. im kind of amazed that you can go tubeless with just some gorilla tape and some glue.

 

[ButtersNZ]

I'm so glad I stumbled on this tutorial. Just set my Supra D rims and Swampthing tires up by following this method to an absolute tee (Schwalbe tubes and all) and after one ride they've given no problems. The true test will be how long I can ride without issues, and how things go after I dial in my tire pressures.
For reference, I got 3 pinch flats in 7 descents earlier this year using Maxxis DH tubes and Muddy Mary DH's. The rock garden on my local is a bitch.

 

[JorisFRST]

Thank you very much for this guide, very clear.

Just did my 5yr old daughters bike this way.

http://www.routerjanitor.com/2013/09/kid-bike-tubeless-setup-ghetto-style.html

 

[blindboxx2334]

in regards to me last question:

just ordered these puppies for the gorilla tape method..

all the info is on this page:
http://forums.mtbr.com/arizona/threaded-schrader-valve-ghetto-tubeless-621638-2.html

 

[blindboxx2334]

oh i almost forgot.. ill probably be puttin em together on Friday with my MTXs, will report back with how much failboat it was and how much i suck.