I cant seem to find a chain guide that either QBP or BTI will say for sure will work on my 02 Giant team DH bike. I dont want a maybe, i want a yes. I can get any guide, but wich one will work. I have a four bolt race face DH crank set, the 110 dollar one. the frame is not ISCG tabed.
Giant team DH chain guide conundrums...
- Thread starter mack
- Start date
mack said:
get an MRP...the one without the ISCG tabs. I forget if it's system 1 or 2 or whatever. I've been running one on mine all season and it works great after getting some new spacers and bolts at the hardware store for the rollers to make them sit correctly over the rings. After that, It's pretty much smooth sailing from there/
hope that helps
weltcupmeister (heiki) had an e13 srs on his old giant for a long time.
At the risk of sounding spam-esque, the e13 SRS guide works just fine on your bike, and it will actually improve your chainline slightly over the OEM setup. Do a search on here, and you'll see that tons of people have had great luck with our guide on that frame.
Best of luck,
John P.
e13
Best of luck,
John P.
e13
I used the ring for the 44 toother and it cleared it just fine....It looks like you could still go plently bigger. I'd go as big as possible so it clears the lower pivots and you don't destroy them on rocks and the liking.mack said:
The E13 works too....but I don't know, I have never really liked the design...but just a personal preference dealio.
no tention on the chain is a bad idea
If your rear D is set-up properally why does it really matter? I didnt have any chain tenssion last year, never droped a chain, its pretty much impossible for it to jump out of the double bashgaurds?Transcend said:
no it can easily jump on any small bump. Look at photos of people riding hard..you will notice that chains are ALWAYS untentioned..the only thing holding them in is the guide wheels.Shmoe said:
This even happens with ultra short cage, strong spring road derrailleurs. With long travel bikes, the chain can stretch so much (especially on a single pivot) that there is no way to have the chain /derrailleur set up "perfectly". It will eb either over tentioned limiting travel and eventually breaking, or undertentioned and sloppy loose being only held on with a guide.
i've got an evil guide on my giant dh
from my experience, here are the two best part changes from a stock '02 giant DH:
- e13 SRS chainguide (east coast 40T will cover the lower linkage)
- avalanche rear shock
the bike works great.
oh yeah, a bit more loctite on the linkage bolts never hurt either.
- e13 SRS chainguide (east coast 40T will cover the lower linkage)
- avalanche rear shock
the bike works great.
oh yeah, a bit more loctite on the linkage bolts never hurt either.
Curious to know, have you ever tried an SRS or looked at one up close? If so, what is the feature/ features that turns you off? We really dont hear many complaints from riders, and we are always looking for feedback!axlvid23 said:
Dave
e.thirteen
BTW, the SRS fits perfectly on a Giant DH Team.
If you never pedal trough rough terrain, then you are probably all set!Shmoe said:
Having done a LOT of testing myself, I can't understand for the life of me why people run that double bashguard thing. It just plain wont keep the chain on through the rough stuff! The only good explaination I can come up with is that most of the people using that type of deal dont pedal enough for it to make a difference. For the added security when you want to pedal, a chainguide seems like a simple and smart idea.
Whatever though, to each his/her own! If it works for you, then thats all that matters!
dw
i have set up SRS`s on some of the top racers bikes down here, and ive learned a few things
1: stock chainguide is total crap.
2: stock mounting holes are crap too, not worth even trying to bolt anything onto those
3: use a 44t bashguard so you get some extra protection for those links down there by the BB, especially if you have switched to a 1/4" shorter i2i fox as people were doing here after the OEM prodeluxes proved to work only for a couple of weeks.
i would strongly suggest the 44t SRS, an mrp will work too but i cant see any reason to pick it over the SRS , especially when its more $.
1: stock chainguide is total crap.
2: stock mounting holes are crap too, not worth even trying to bolt anything onto those
3: use a 44t bashguard so you get some extra protection for those links down there by the BB, especially if you have switched to a 1/4" shorter i2i fox as people were doing here after the OEM prodeluxes proved to work only for a couple of weeks.
i would strongly suggest the 44t SRS, an mrp will work too but i cant see any reason to pick it over the SRS , especially when its more $.
I want to echo JP's statements about the SRS on a Giant, It is a really, really easy fit, but it won't improve your chainline unless you grind off the tabs for the little ring on your crank arms, Any other cranks than the Prodigy DH's have a considerably less obtrusive set of holes (or none at all), and then you can set up your guide to get a better chainline as he suggests.
(JP, the application guide that Heikki wrote up works great, unless someone is running prodigy dh's, so you guys might want to note that...)
(JP, the application guide that Heikki wrote up works great, unless someone is running prodigy dh's, so you guys might want to note that...)
get the e.13 and be done with it, dont mess around with MRP...
I really have had no issues with my Giant Chainguide. Well, maybe a little chinline trouble at first, but $8CDN (between Canadian tire for shorter bolts and LBS for spacers) and it was all fixxed up. I just moved the guide in, and spacered the chainring inwards. I've had a full-on, flat-out case on a step-up-to-tabletop, right onto the guide, and all is still straight. Maybe just luck, but I took out about a half inch of lumber out of the tabletop!!
J
J5ive
Guest
I took off a giants chainguide yesterday- are they made of rubber?
Seriously- the SRS is the last guide you will buy.
They just need to sort out stock levels over here in Australia!
- and talk them into importing some imperials!
Seriously- the SRS is the last guide you will buy.
They just need to sort out stock levels over here in Australia!
- and talk them into importing some imperials!
Spammer!John P. said:
JK
I'm one of them.
I have been running the Evil guide (in the 44 size) on my Comp-DH with a 36 ring for two years w/o a hitch.
IMO it's the best single product in the DH side of this industry.
mack said:
Another option is the Gamut USA G45 and G54 guides. They have a very simple design, are lightweight, easy to install, and best of all, they keep the chain on. They work well with Giants and help for straighter chainlines. Check out www.gamutusa.com.
....but I hear the guy that makes them is a pooper pirate.mtnkilla said:
I'm Juano's buddy. He's racing in Idaho right now and told me to sling some nonsense for him while he's gone.dw said:
Just today put on an MRP on my 02 DH team. I used the MRP without the ISCG mounts, can't remember if it is the WC1 or WC2. Here's some directions...
Grind off ALL the tabs on the back of the piece that mounts on the BB shell. Make is as flush as possible with the rest of the piece. Take out those little inserts that in the piece too.
After the BB mounted piece is on, you will need a spacer and longer bolts for the inner guide itself. Make sure they all clear the swingarm! It may take some more grider work...
For the top orange wheel thing, I got another bolt regular hex bolt that was the same thread pattern and length of the original. I then had a grind a lot of the head down as to clear the swingarm.
It takes some work, but is well worth it! Looks cool too!
If you have any questions about the setup just let me know.
Grind off ALL the tabs on the back of the piece that mounts on the BB shell. Make is as flush as possible with the rest of the piece. Take out those little inserts that in the piece too.
After the BB mounted piece is on, you will need a spacer and longer bolts for the inner guide itself. Make sure they all clear the swingarm! It may take some more grider work...
For the top orange wheel thing, I got another bolt regular hex bolt that was the same thread pattern and length of the original. I then had a grind a lot of the head down as to clear the swingarm.
It takes some work, but is well worth it! Looks cool too!
If you have any questions about the setup just let me know.
B
bighitfsr
Guest
"Curious to know, have you ever tried an SRS or looked at one up close? If so, what is the feature/ features that turns you off? We really dont hear many complaints from riders, and we are always looking for feedback!"
I have to SRS chain guides two on Bighits.
I have the STS on my 5.5" travel play bike and the East coast special on my DH bike.
Both guides have the maximum sized chain ring (36T/40T) but the plastic bash ring is much larger than it needs to be IMO.
The actual bash ring would probably protect a chain ring 2 teeth bigger.
Also you should offer an lighter version of the bash guard, few if any break and that means its stronger/heavier than it needs to be.
No a major problems IMO but there is room for improvement.
It is the best chain guide I've ever used.
I rate the best feature being the total absence of grub screws (comming off a ****ty airreal blackspire copy).
Also you need to find new distributors in Australia.
An SRS costs AU$350 here while a Mr Dirt or MRP is AU$280.
Stock is also a problem.
Most people I meet on the trails here have purchased thier guides via US mail order. This is bad for the customer and bad for Aussy bike shops.
I have to SRS chain guides two on Bighits.
I have the STS on my 5.5" travel play bike and the East coast special on my DH bike.
Both guides have the maximum sized chain ring (36T/40T) but the plastic bash ring is much larger than it needs to be IMO.
The actual bash ring would probably protect a chain ring 2 teeth bigger.
Also you should offer an lighter version of the bash guard, few if any break and that means its stronger/heavier than it needs to be.
No a major problems IMO but there is room for improvement.
It is the best chain guide I've ever used.
I rate the best feature being the total absence of grub screws (comming off a ****ty airreal blackspire copy).
Also you need to find new distributors in Australia.
An SRS costs AU$350 here while a Mr Dirt or MRP is AU$280.
Stock is also a problem.
Most people I meet on the trails here have purchased thier guides via US mail order. This is bad for the customer and bad for Aussy bike shops.
Thanks for the feedback; glad to hear you like the guides. Here are a few responses to your issues:bighitfsr said:
*Diameter of bashrings: While the bashring will technically protect a ring that is 2 teeth larger than our 'max' on each size (i.e., our 42T bashring is about the same diameter as a 44T chainring), the function of our guide requires that there be some overlap between the diameter of the bashring and the position of the top slider. If you didn't have this overlap and you were pedaling during a large hit, you could possibly pedal the chain right out of the guide (for some reason, a lot of other guide MFR's haven't figured this one out yet!). Another thing to note is that decreasing the diameter of the bashguard to the sizes you're talking about would not only result in a much less reliable chainguide, it would also only increase ground clearance by 3 to 4 millimeters. Altering the pressure in your tires by a couple of pumps will create a bigger effect on ground clearance than that.
*Weight of the bashring: We've played around with a lot of bashring thicknesses, and you'd be surprised at the results. A bashring that is half the thickness of our current model is only about 40-50 grams lighter, and it's much weaker. After 4 years of testing, we're very confident that we've got the best strength-to-weight ratio possible.
*Australian Distributorship: I'll give them a call and see what's going on with pricing. As for availability, that's more our fault than theirs. We keep getting overwhelmed with demand for our guides, and we're out of stock on sizes more than we'd like to be. A tricky thing about international orders is that they order a ton of different sizes (we offer a total of 72 possible chainguide and bashring combos, given all the bolt patterns, diameters, guide types, and colors), and we need to have every single one in stock before we can ship their order. Otherwise, price goes up even more due to the cost of freight on multiple shipments. We've just finished a complete overhaul on our inventory system, though, so things are looking great for '05.
I hope this helps answers some of your questions. Feel free to Email me directly if you ever have any other issues.
Best regards,
John P.
Business Director
e13
johnp@e13components.com
Thanks lot for the feedback. We have some things in the works that I hope will help our aussie friends out quite a bit!bighitfsr said:
I want to address one of your points, the one about bashguard weight with some actual measured #'s. The actual weights of popular "bashguards" that are offered with chainguides just may surprise you!
1) 40T e.thirteen SRS supercharger bashguard- weight: 243.5 grams
2) 40T dual 1/8 inch 6061 aluminum bashguard as used on other chaingudes (2 per guide)- total weight: 278 grams
3) 40T dual 5mm thick 6061 aluminum bashguard as used on other chaingudes (2 per guide)- total weight: 446 grams
4) 40T 6mm thick 6061 aluminum bashguard as used on other chaingudes (1 per guide)- total weight: 274 grams
As you can see by the #s, the supercharger is the lightest bashguard out of all of the common designs available, and in addition to that, the supercharger offers "actual" bashguard protection. Some of the other "bashguards" that we are comparing to here offer laughable protection in my opinion, with a gain in weight to go with it.
Like John P mentioned, we have spent a lot of time and money over the past few years on product genesis and development. In the never ending quest to save weight, increase strength, and improve performance, we have tried thinner bashguards, different shapes, and all kinds of other features. We even use our own proprietary engineering polymer blends to build the superchargers and slider kits.
For sure, we're going to keep tring to make the guides lighter, and stronger. Thanks to the efforts of our worldwide pro race teams and riders like you, we get usable feedback that we can back up with our own internal testing in cyberspace, the lab, and ultimately on the trail.
Thanks for the info!
Dave
mack said:
1- were you running a 44t before? why run one now? Are your courses that wide open? I originally started w/a 46t then played around from36-42t and setteled on a 40 or 42 depending on whatever is straight when I am building my DH bike. 44 seams tall. 42 is at times also....even with a 11-32 cassette
2- Forgive me if you are new, but the Evil guide is real similiar to that bullit proof stuff they use for bank windows and stuff. It is less likely to bend and fail than an aluminum ring. People actually buy them to do grinds with.
I run one on my XCHT (dual ring set up) I was just running the bash guard until last weekend when I threw on the DRS....I don't have a bunch of time on that one yet....so I can't comment other than it is quiet. I did use the bash guard to skipp and alide accross logs and rocks while riding trails.
I wouldn't worry about the ring....JMHO
I am setting up my Rotec with the SRS version but I need to make some more modifications before finishing up....My rotec is very proprietary.
OK....what ring are you going to run?mack said:
All I could think about was the mid 90's when 48t sprokets were the stuff.