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Giant XTC Advanced Build

Poops McDougal

moving to australia
May 30, 2007
1,185
1,248
Central California
Recently picked up a 2016 Giant XTC Advanced frame locally, and I'm in the process of building it up. Figured I'd start a thread about it, not because it's going to be an epic build or anything, but because I haven't built a bike from the ground up since 2006 or so, and it wasn't exactly cutting edge at the time. Things have changed a bit since then, and I'm going to have a ton of questions as I spec this thing out.

Value is the name of the game here. I'm not fast enough to appreciate a crazy-light XC race bike, nor do I want to pay for one. I also don't want to build a tank around this carbon frame, so I'm trying to walk a tight line.

I'm currently looking into options for the bigger ticket items: fork, wheels and crankset. The majority of fork options (even used) are boost, so I'll wind up with a 110 thru-axle front hub and a 135 qr rear hub, which I think means that finding a wheelset is out of the question, and I need to buy hubs/spokes/rims separately. Any recommendations for a decent hub that's not crazy expensive?

On the crankset front, I'd like to go with a single ring, but it seems like all the current single ring offerings are intended for a wider rear hub, so I wonder about chainline issues. Anybody upgrade a slightly older bike from 2x to 1x, and is there anything specific I should be looking out for? I figure a rear derailleur with a clutch is going to be a requirement.

I'm starting to ramble, I think, so I'll wrap this up for now. Any input from those more knowledgeable than myself would be appreciated.
 

boostindoubles

Nacho Libre
Mar 16, 2004
8,042
6,353
Yakistan
That frame is likely non-boost so it limits the cranksets you can find NIB. I really like the older (ha) XT and SLX stuff from shimano. The m770 and m780 cranks are badass! If you stay away from the 2x cranks (would be labelled m785 instead of m780) you'll be fine for chainline in a 1x setup. The 3x cranks can be used for 1x with no problems.

Any of the XT 10 speed or 11 speed stuff will be ripe for your bike.
 

Poops McDougal

moving to australia
May 30, 2007
1,185
1,248
Central California
That frame is likely non-boost so it limits the cranksets you can find NIB. I really like the older (ha) XT and SLX stuff from shimano. The m770 and m780 cranks are badass! If you stay away from the 2x cranks (would be labelled m785 instead of m780) you'll be fine for chainline in a 1x setup. The 3x cranks can be used for 1x with no problems.

Any of the XT 10 speed or 11 speed stuff will be ripe for your bike.
Yeah, it's got the old 135mm rear hub width. To further complicate things (maybe, or maybe not), the BB is a 89.5/92 press fit. Any compatibility issues to worry about here with an older XT crankset?
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
16,426
13,762
Yeah, it's got the old 135mm rear hub width. To further complicate things (maybe, or maybe not), the BB is a 89.5/92 press fit. Any compatibility issues to worry about here with an older XT crankset?
Weird to still have 135QR on a 2016 bike, I'd have guessed almost everything was 142TA by then.

Those pressfit BB's will work better with a GXP or Shimano crankset using their thinner axle versus newer DUB/BB30 stuff. As above, for value look for an old triple crankset (Not XTR960!) and it will run fine with a 104 BCD NW ring in the middle position.
 

Poops McDougal

moving to australia
May 30, 2007
1,185
1,248
Central California
Weird to still have 135QR on a 2016 bike, I'd have guessed almost everything was 142TA by then.

Those pressfit BB's will work better with a GXP or Shimano crankset using their thinner axle versus newer DUB/BB30 stuff. As above, for value look for an old triple crankset (Not XTR960!) and it will run fine with a 104 BCD NW ring in the middle position.
Oddly enough, the 27.5" model had a thru-axle rear, but not the 29" model (as far as I can tell).
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
16,426
13,762
My 2011 29er Ti hardtail is 135qr dropouts. I've always run it with a 10mm RWS TA as my Hope rear hub just needed endcaps to change from QR.

You could always look for an older 142 based wheelset with Hope or DT Swiss wheels as you could change the rear endcaps and then if the front isn't boost, just run an adapter on it if you get a boost fork.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,338
6,388
borcester rhymes
Are you committed to buying new from a vendor, or are you comfortable with used or NOS stuff?

I ask because as the industry shifts to incremental gains, options are plentiful for barely used crap that used to be awesome. The invention of XD and shimano 12s means 10s freehub wheels are everywhere. 10mm better boost forks means you should be able to pick up regular 15x100 forks for pennies (because they are not 10mm better).

I mean shit:


Don't neglect people who can't be fucking bothered to note that 15x100 is not 12x100, or just damned lazy.

For cranksets, I suggest FSA as they can be found on ebay NOS for cheap. I actually bought these cranks then sold them as the q factor was too wide for what I wanted, but $70 is $70


I do agree that bb92 or whatever belongs with a shimano 24mm crankset as much as is possible. If you stick with Shimano, SLX is basically XT in black, so I went that route. Crankarms can be had for $78 it looks like.
 

Poops McDougal

moving to australia
May 30, 2007
1,185
1,248
Central California
Are you committed to buying new from a vendor, or are you comfortable with used or NOS stuff?

I ask because as the industry shifts to incremental gains, options are plentiful for barely used crap that used to be awesome. The invention of XD and shimano 12s means 10s freehub wheels are everywhere. 10mm better boost forks means you should be able to pick up regular 15x100 forks for pennies (because they are not 10mm better).

I mean shit:


Don't neglect people who can't be fucking bothered to note that 15x100 is not 12x100, or just damned lazy.

For cranksets, I suggest FSA as they can be found on ebay NOS for cheap. I actually bought these cranks then sold them as the q factor was too wide for what I wanted, but $70 is $70


I do agree that bb92 or whatever belongs with a shimano 24mm crankset as much as is possible. If you stick with Shimano, SLX is basically XT in black, so I went that route. Crankarms can be had for $78 it looks like.
I have absolutely no problem buying used; I had originally planned as much for the fork, and probably the wheels, too. Now that I’m paying for a dental bridge, things just got a whole lot used-er, if not completely back-burnered until next year.

My main reason for starting the thread was my unfamiliarity with some of the newer standards, and compatibility between them, but also to solicit opinions on decent components that could be had for relatively cheaply. Little bit of backstory: I took a near total hiatus from cycling for many years, so I didn't even know what the hell "boost" meant until just recently. I'm kind of figuring this out again. I definitely appreciate the input from everyone.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,338
6,388
borcester rhymes
word nerd.

I think the best price to dollar ratio is 11 speed. Grab yourself an 11-45 shimano cassette. It'll fit on virtually any wheel made before 2019 (hyperglide). I prefer shimano derailleurs and shifters, but you can use sram as well. 11 speed is before things got real weird. Now you can get a 10-52 cassette, but unless you are doing serious climbing in the rockies or PNW you probably don't need it.

Anyways, most forks are going to work pretty well, and most brakes are going to work pretty well, and any shimano crank is going to be pretty awesome. You'd be surprised at how good you can get a bike these days without spending a fortune. A nice stiff front end with some stan's flow level wheels and a high engagement hub, you'll be a happy camper.
 

Poops McDougal

moving to australia
May 30, 2007
1,185
1,248
Central California
Quick update, because why the hell not.

Incoming Judy Gold RL fork (don't laugh) and XT crankset. Fork is a 15TA boost. The crankset is a double, and I think it's the same crankset that the 2016 XTC 29 1 originally shipped with. Everything I've read indicates that it can be run as a 1x non-boost setup without issue. I found it new, not-in-retail packaging on Ebay for $100, so I pulled the trigger. Hope the risk pays off. If all goes according to plan, I'll have them installed this weekend. Now to figure out the wheel situation.
 

Poops McDougal

moving to australia
May 30, 2007
1,185
1,248
Central California


I think orange would look cool, but I might do orange collars and black grips rather than orange grips as they get dirty quick. I have red grips and they look dumb as I'm trying to de-redify my bike.
You're probably right about that. I'd like to build a wheelset around orange hubs, too, but building wheels may be cost-prohibitive right now.
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
16,426
13,762
I will have built another three road bikes by the time this guy gets us a photo.
What about just one functioning new TT bike with weird brakes where you have to procure a full brakeset from Asia because pads aren't available in the USA?

:D
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,030
20,917
Sleazattle
Not sure I'm understanding this... Are you saying that the brake housing should be routed in between the fork lower and wheel after it passes through the retaining clamp (which is on the front of the arch)?

Yeah, supposedly prevents the line from getting snagged by brush etc. I run mine on the outside because I am an rebel and a contrarian and have never had a problem.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,030
20,917
Sleazattle
Yeah, that makes sense. I don;'t think I've ever routed one on the inside.
Once I get a caliper aligned I just pull it tight before clamping it down so it isn't flapping in the breeze. I guess it could get crushed by a rock in a crash but honestly I'd rather lose a brake line than a fork lower if it came down to it.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,233
20,458
Canaderp
The Giant bike shop around here routes all the front brakes like that, or maybe they come out of the box like that.

I've seen them get yanked out a bit and rubbed against east coast rox. Never a catastrophe, but it always makes me uneasy seeing it.

Nice bike!

Is it 10 speed stuff? Whered you find it for a decent price, assuming you purchased it? I looked for some recently, but it was all priced more than 11 and 12 speed. :(
 

Poops McDougal

moving to australia
May 30, 2007
1,185
1,248
Central California
The Giant bike shop around here routes all the front brakes like that, or maybe they come out of the box like that.

I've seen them get yanked out a bit and rubbed against east coast rox. Never a catastrophe, but it always makes me uneasy seeing it.

Nice bike!

Is it 10 speed stuff? Whered you find it for a decent price, assuming you purchased it? I looked for some recently, but it was all priced more than 11 and 12 speed. :(
Kinda going off memory here (which has faded since the baby was born in early December), but both 10 and 11 speed; 10 speed Deore 11-46 cassette, w/ an 11-speed XT rear derailleur. Bought them both from Nashbar, cassette was around 50 bucks, and the RD was on sale for 65-ish?