[t_treehugger]

This question is actually for my hubby. He just got back into riding, unfortunately the wrong kind, ahem, I mean road cycling--but at least it something, right? Anyway, he has a pair of nothing special thin padded gloves and his hands get numb on rides. I've never had this problem so I can't recommend anything except buying gloves with better padding.

You guys/gals have any recommendations about what to look for or what gloves you like if you've had this problem?

 

[ire]

He may want to look at a padded handle bard wrap:
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/GR408B26-Aztec+Vibe+Wrap+Bar+Tape+System.aspx

 

[SuspectDevice]

It's his bike fit. Gloves aren't going to fix it! Is the nose of his saddle pointing down? Are his hoods properly positioned... Is his reach too low or too long? All of that stuff can add up to sore hands... Take a picture of him on the bike. Post it. Problem solved!

 

[DirtyMike]

It's his bike fit. Gloves aren't going to fix it! Is the nose of his saddle pointing down? Are his hoods properly positioned... Is his reach too low or too long? All of that stuff can add up to sore hands... Take a picture of him on the bike. Post it. Problem solved!

All of that is very important stuff, but like Ire suggested, Padded bar wrap would do the trick nicely, personally I like the SPeciallized Bar Phats

 

[t_treehugger]

hmmm. his saddle nose is pointed way down due to ummmm...discomfort issues. Maybe he can start there and then try the padded wrap.

Thanks. I had no idea.

Now, if only I can get him off the asphalt and on a MTB.

 

[Wumpus]

hmmm. his saddle nose is pointed way down due to ummmm...discomfort issues.

Why is his saddle pointed so far down? Maybe his bars are too low, his stem could be too long making him reach farther...Does he ride in the drops a lot?

 

[johnbryanpeters]

All of that is very important stuff, but like Ire suggested, Padded bar wrap would do the trick nicely, personally I like the SPeciallized Bar Phats

All the bar wrap in the world will not work if the fit is wrong. Get the bike set up right for your husband.

 

[DirtyMike]

I do Proper bike fits all the time, just not something that is easy to do over the net.

 

[JRogers]

I doubt adding padding will help any numbness issues. That is almost always an issue of fit that won't be solved by adding a new layer of padding. True, it's not easy to fit a bike over the net, but since that is almost assuredly the problem, changing something else that won't have any effect isn't the solution.

 

[Serial Midget]

The problem may be the angle of his saddle - since its pointing down he's likely to be using his hands, arms and shoulders to keep his ass from sliding forward. Placing this much pressure on the palms of one's hands will reduce circulation and cause numbness.

 

[proglife]

Maybe I can add some questions in this thread, as my hands get pretty numb after a 30 mile ride.

I tried to buy my bike from a LBS, but it just wasn't happening, so I ended up ordering from out of state. I think the frame is the right size. Saddle height and everything in the back feels good, but I feel like the hoods are way too far out. I don't think I need a full couple hundred dollar fitting; I'm thinking a new shorter stem would do the trick.

If I went to my LBS and got their opinion on that, what's the difference between that and getting a full fitting?

 

[ire]

If I went to my LBS and got their opinion on that, what's the difference between that and getting a full fitting?

Someone who is skilled versus someone who is not....you get what you pay for. In my experience most bike shop employees don't know that much about proper fit.

 

[DirtyMike]

Maybe I can add some questions in this thread, as my hands get pretty numb after a 30 mile ride.

I tried to buy my bike from a LBS, but it just wasn't happening, so I ended up ordering from out of state. I think the frame is the right size. Saddle height and everything in the back feels good, but I feel like the hoods are way too far out. I don't think I need a full couple hundred dollar fitting; I'm thinking a new shorter stem would do the trick.

If I went to my LBS and got their opinion on that, what's the difference between that and getting a full fitting?

Basic fitting with us starts at 65 dollars, takes about an hour. A full in depth fitting goes up from there depending on how in depth you want to go. Max is two hours for us, at that point your just going to be out of adjustments.


Just to list some of the important attributes of a fit, of coarse frame size, seat height, seat angle, seat fore/aft, seat set back, total drop from seat to bars, stem length, stem rise/drop bar position lever position.

 

[proglife]

thanks for the info!

 

[SuspectDevice]

Proglife,
Try a bar with a shorter reach, and make sure you keep you hoods higher, rather than lower. I'm of the opinion that most bikes ship with bars that have far, far too much reach. You Jamis came with Easton bars, right? Look for something a little shorter in the reach dept. Both FSA and 3ttt make some good bars with shorter reach.

 

[proglife]

The '07 Quest has a Ritchey Comp 120mm stem and Ritchey Comp 440mm Handlebars. I was thinking of swapping out to a 100mm stem and see if that does the trick. Do you think new bars might be a better choice, or a combination of both?

 

[SuspectDevice]

A stem is an easier swap than the bars, for sure. Can you go into a shop and drop a few stems on to get a better idea? Is the bike currently comfy on the tops, but too long in the hoods? If so, a bar is going to be a better swap. The Ritchey "ergo" bars fall into the longer-reach pile. Biomax and WCS classic bars don't...

 

[proglife]

A stem is an easier swap than the bars, for sure. Can you go into a shop and drop a few stems on to get a better idea?

Not without feeling like I'm inconveniencing them.

Is the bike currently comfy on the tops, but too long in the hoods?

Way too long in the hoods, kind of scary in the drops. The top of the bar feels decent, but I'm not sure how it's supposed to feel there (my first road bike).

If so, a bar is going to be a better swap. The Ritchey "ergo" bars fall into the longer-reach pile. Biomax and WCS classic bars don't...

Is there a measurement/spec to determine this or is it just they style of bar you're familiar with?

Thanks for the tips!

 

[SuspectDevice]

Sure, go to the various componet manufacturers websites and look up the measurements for reach and drop. Short and shallow is generally around 70mm reach, 140mm drop, and most of the standard stuff is around 80/160mm. I personally think shorter reach stuff handles considerably better, as your wrists, et al make a less exaggerated arc throughout the steering axis.

 

[DirtyMike]

Is it possible to have your wife post a pic of you on the bike, possibly leaning up against a wall, possible video you as you ride a bit? that will help alot, if you can do the video, get some when your up on top, on the hoods, and in the drops. that will help a ton. Because honestly, before you go after changing bars/stem, you need to have the seat proper first, then stem and bars.

 

[proglife]

if you'd be willing to have a look at that, that would be excellent. I'm heading down to NC tomorrow and will be back Sunday. Maybe I'll have the girlfriend take some shots. I don't have video capability on the iphone

I *think* I'm good on the saddle position. I believe I have the saddle height right with the proper leg bend and I think my knee is about where it should be relative to the peddle axle, but I definitely could be wrong.

Thanks peoples!