Good brakes in 2022
- Thread starter norbar
- Start date
Next up, have you checked the calipers fit with you fork and frame adapters?
You bought a bmx, you wanted to buy pegs.
Now wait and see if what you get is a wooden leg, what you wanted or a product that will require you to buy vaseline.
Hayes doesn't make a Left clamp for droppers; some other dudes on other websites say you can grind/file some other brands to work, but I don't care enough to do that. I just run the cheap and light separate Bikeyoke clamp.
I have Xl/XXL hands and the Hayes peacemaker combined with Shimano Ispec 12s shifter provides poor egos for me; I run brake calipers very far inboard for 1 finger braking, and the shifter is located too far away from my thumb and won't rotate to an ideal position. I'll probably go back to a conventionally-mounted shifter when I feel like spending that $.
Lots of my time and $ has been wasted over the years trying to achieve a "clean looking cockpit" and save 10 grams with all these incompatible, non-standardized, and poorly-designed mounting "systems".
I have Xl/XXL hands and the Hayes peacemaker combined with Shimano Ispec 12s shifter provides poor egos for me; I run brake calipers very far inboard for 1 finger braking, and the shifter is located too far away from my thumb and won't rotate to an ideal position. I'll probably go back to a conventionally-mounted shifter when I feel like spending that $.
Lots of my time and $ has been wasted over the years trying to achieve a "clean looking cockpit" and save 10 grams with all these incompatible, non-standardized, and poorly-designed mounting "systems".
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That headtube badge is the dead giveaway you're gonna have a cockpit that looks like shit. I swear its a competition between Scott's Twin-Loc and Canyon's ShapeShifter to make a bike that looks like a Wallace and Grommet contraptionNEWSFLASH propriety adapters don't actually make your bars any less cluttered or cleaner looking just restrict your options for positioning everything.
#CleanAF
NEWSFLASH propriety adapters don't actually make your bars any less cluttered or cleaner looking just restrict your options for positioning everything.
#CleanAF
Somebody does 3d printed mounts on eBay for Shimano stuff, not metal, but cheap.For these little adapters, assuming someone can design it and do that part of the work, how much would it cost to 3d print it in metal?
Because $40-$55 for something like that is
You can find just regular clamps for SRAM shifters.for.less than $10 and ditch the integrated BS.
I've still not installed these new miracle brakes (Dominion A4), but now realise that my collection of bleed kit paraphernalia may not include the correct bleed nipples.
I've heard they're the same as the SRAM lever end fitting. Can anyone confirm before I start making a mess and make my bike unrideable?
I've heard they're the same as the SRAM lever end fitting. Can anyone confirm before I start making a mess and make my bike unrideable?
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I just purchased Hayes little bleed kit. Because you can never have too many nipple adapters and clamps.
It also came with a few olives and doodads, so I thought it was worth it.
I've got the Jagwire bleed kit and that works for them. Thread looks like a SRAM one, I'll compare when I get home.
PS. Don't buy the Hayes if you have multiple bikes. Its an expensive addiction. I underestimated how shit they'd make other brakes feel so I bought them for both bikes in the end. Even the DJ is starting to look like it wants a set but that might be a tad silly.
i had gotten a generic bleed kit off amazon for some sram/avid brakes years ago, and it worked with my a4s.
A2's inbound for my next build.
Are they much cheaper than the A4s? Wonder if they have much less throw. I always see them for the same price as the A4s and I'm too macho to admit I don't need 4pots on every bike I own.
CRC has them 57% off right now (at least to my region). got the set for cheaper than a single A4. couldn't pass it up.
will let you know about lever throw once i have them, from what i've read though compared to A4's more initial bite, but less overall power. which checks out given the differences between them.
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Other than the (leaky) Saints on my old DH bike, these A4's are going to be my first 4 piston set of brakes. The XTs I'm getting rid of were good for everything, I felt. So I'm excited for MOAR powah, maybe it'll cut down on death gripping the bars?
Oh wait I almost forgot about the 4 pot Guides on my Transition Scout. But God damn those things sucked. I ended up using the leaky Saints instead.
yes.
i went from first gen saints (m800s, back when shimano brakes were earning their reputation as the best) to the a4s. very happy. nothing wrong with the saints tho, they are going to replace the xt's on my megatrail which finally started to exhibit wandering bite point.
I keep getting a flare up of tendinitis in my forearm/elbow and the A4s have been a pleasure for relieving it so far. Turns out toodles brain no think well so when I'm braking hard I actually squeeze the whole hand, not just my braking finger. Going to a super light action, powerful brake on both bikes (I gotta stop pretending the trail bike is XC only - I'm literally riding old DH tracks on it) has helped the tendinitis quite a bit.
one thing i've done to help on my trail/downcountry bike in the interim is increase rotor size.
Yeah i run 200/203 F&R on both MTBs. Only got 160s on the groad bike and DJ but theyre not really an issue
Just got 223/203 rotors with TRP DH Evo's for my Heckler. Significant reduction in effort at the lever and fade on longer descents compared to Code RSC. I'm around 200 lbs with gear and my bike is around 50. I wasn't sure about the giant pizza rotor but the amount of control with low effort is amazing. Super impressed so far. 
Yup, SRAM bleed kit (the older style with threaded fittings at the lever and caliper, not the newer Bleeding Edge one) works.
I still have the new m800s in a Box. Front and Rear,with the Hubs and Rear Der. The Der. has the Axel attached,that was m800 no? It was supposed to go on a Turner HighLine Build. It has been a while.
Avy
Well my code R kicked ass with galfer 2.0 rotors (223/203) and galfer green pads motul rf600 fluid...
My formula ones same rotors and EBC red pads same fluid kick ass...no issues at all ..the codes SUCKED before the thicker rotors and green pads...I passed on trp gold evo brakes at a steal cause the code are working flawless on DH bike, and formula the ones I won't let go of.
My formula ones same rotors and EBC red pads same fluid kick ass...no issues at all ..the codes SUCKED before the thicker rotors and green pads...I passed on trp gold evo brakes at a steal cause the code are working flawless on DH bike, and formula the ones I won't let go of.
I remember years ago when I ran Hayes Purple,a guy on mtbr Brake Time was trying to help a member out on the board. It was a pretty long thread as they were going through every possibility. The only thing I can remember was his Last question to the guy.
How old was his Dot fluid and was the lid(seal,not cap)been off?
Ever since then,I crack a Fresh little Hayes white Bottle every Bleed. I never had a Problem with those Purples or the 9’s after them. I put Razor Rock Lever’s on the 9’s. Still have, but Regret selling the Purples. I bought that Hayes Lever tool just for that. That was not cheap and I used it 1 time. Is that tool even useful now?
Reason for this Long story is the guy was sayin that ounce you open the Bottle,she has a Shelf Life. Don’t remember what it was though? Just thought I would share.
Avy
Thank You Brother. I could not remember why? I think Most Mnt.Biker’s do not know this.
I mean,you always have Left Over on a Brake Bleed Bottle when complete. A good period of time could pass before you’re next Bleed? Is it enough,I don’t know? I never took the chance to find out.
Avy
When you come up with one let us know.
I have a bottle of Motul in the garage that was opened in the fall and used a few tablespoons. Figured I would not be into it again until spring, so thought about laying a bead of silly-cone around the gap between lid and bottle. Then figured how much of a total ball-ache it will be to get back into. So I ended up with a cling-film gasket. Doubt that will do anything, but at least I gave it a half-hearted attempt.
put the bottle in a vacuum sealed bag?
leading idea so far.
if i still had access to an induction sealer for bottlers i would just re-seal it.
Or just double-seal freezer bags and get as much air out as possible? It ain't going to have *that* much water?
