Got the Evil DRS installed!
- Thread starter FoXRider
- Start date
looks sweet...
looks familiar, but waay too clean 
Looks sweet.. You should rotate your guide further clockwise, though. You can tuck the roller up much more and get it out of the way of trail debris.
Prior to installing mine, can i rotate the boomerang as clockwise as possible in order to get as much tension as possible? The chainstay is my limit.binary visions said:
The manual says that the bottom of the roller assembly should be approximately in line with the bottom of the bashguard. I have mine rotated a good .25-.5" further up than that and have no problems.
Why would you want to rotate it prior to installing? Am I missing something?
Why would you want to rotate it prior to installing? Am I missing something?
I want one!!!!
i have just arrived in the UK with the DRS, and i just want to install it, hence i was wondering.binary visions said:
The lbs will install it for 5$ and the tools that i am missing if i was to install it myself cost 30$
I guess for this time i am better off to use the lbs. Is that a big shame to live with?
Looks awesome man, nice job on the install!
Hey Math2014, buy the tools. You seem like someone who is going to be riding bikes for a long time. Having the right tools to work on your bike is part of the whole experience. Its awesome to be able to work on and maintain your own bike.
All you really need for a DRS install is a set of allen wrenches, a BB tool, and a chainring nut tool.
Have fun!
Dave
Hey Math2014, buy the tools. You seem like someone who is going to be riding bikes for a long time. Having the right tools to work on your bike is part of the whole experience. Its awesome to be able to work on and maintain your own bike.
All you really need for a DRS install is a set of allen wrenches, a BB tool, and a chainring nut tool.
Have fun!
Dave
Dave thanks for the trusting vote mate. Problem is that i am lacking a raceface BB tool and i am lacking a crank extractor. The cost for these is 30$, and i am at a point where i need all the cash i can get in order to buy a roadbike. I will get the tools at some point in time for sure.dw said:
The guys at the lbs know me really well and they offered to do it for a small nominal charge. I know that i prefer to do it, but since they dont have the tools i need in stock, it might take me a long time (1week+) to install it myself. Thats my only problem.
By the way, i dont have a torque wrench. Should i go by hand on the bashguard and use blue loctite for safety?
It says in the directions not to use loctite on the chainring bolts as it may cause damage to the bashguard. I have not had a problem with the bolts coming loose so the torque specs are there so make sure you DONT OVERTIGHTEN the bolts onto the bashguard. tighten them up with a 5mm allen key gently and once it starts to feel tight its usually pretty good there.math2014 said:
Does that broken front mech give you and problems when down shifting?
If by that you mean the front derailer. Then no. I just left that derailer on because its on backorder and I needed a derailer for today (I was doing some DH riding) It works perfect. But i'm still investing in a new one. Who wants a broken derailer anyways?Mustang85 said:
So its just a temp fix.
cool setup. after today in big bear(some bad chain dropping and chain suck). I'm definatly looking at getting the DRS
What is a chainring nut tool?
I love mine. I haven't dropped a chain since I got it. Seriously, it's that good. (for me at least)
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/viewproduct.asp?category=Tools&ModelID=391math2014 said:
Fits in the slots of the backside of the chainring holding on nut. There are a few other odd parts that they fit as well.
Yep, but once you get it set up right you shouldn't have to touch it for a while. As it is, you could potentially destroy the roller if you whacked it on something too hard.FoXRider said:
Better to get it set up right the first time than have to screw with it later!
Unless I am misreading the question, rotating a guide after everything is tight can loosen the BB.binary visions said:
Um.. Okay, I guess - I didn't read the question like that, I'd consider that after installing - prior to installing being prior to everything being snugged down. I snug it all down, get the guide rotated the way I want, then torque the cups down.Repack said:
Ideally, the guide should not rotate easily/at all after everything is tightened down - at least, it shouldn't be rotatable easily enough that you'd consider adjusting the guide without loosening the BB cup.
I guess I did misunderstand. With a mallet, you can still rotate a boomerang after everything is tight. But just b/c you can, doesn't mean that you should.binary visions said:
But the DRS is sweet. I just installed one on my gf's bike and it went flawlessly.
Oh man, that is the type of tool that I never buy, and then I end up getting all bloody trying to get me chain ring bolts loose with a butterknife.D_D said:
I need to quit being so cheap.
All i use is an allen wrench and a flathead screwdriver when removing a chainring.