Or you could use just google?
http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/axle-crown-measurements-new-29er-pikes-860934.html
got the new pike...
- Thread starter manhattanprjkt83
- Start date
http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/axle-crown-measurements-new-29er-pikes-860934.html
LaBron James had JFK killed?so guys, this may sound far fetched, but do you think this forced market segmentation is a government plot to distract us from the real problem, which is that LBJ had JFK assassinated and then through a series of mishaps and coverups by proceeding presidents, it eventually got to the point that GWB had to order 911 because we were about to expose the biggest coverup in history, and then as that got more out of control maybe obama ordered the bike industry to do this so that we'd change our focus?
I'm pretty sure that's a much more likely reason then because they think it'll make our lives more convenient in the long run, or that they can convince a group that would have resisted change to make a change for the improvement of their bicycles without too much fuss. And no, I'm not talking about the 1% tiny DH market guys, I'm referring to the XC/trail bike guys that make up the majority of MTB sales that were previously riding QR, and resisted the switch to 20mm because that was for DH bikes. I'm glad I can visit ridemonkey and meet all these people who share a similarly minded view Big Bike Industry (BBI™plots.
I did use google. That forum is for people who suffer from rollover dysfunction and need an additional 3 inches to perform adequately.
I am looking for the axle to crown for a 26" Pike.
which is all a sideshow to road bike sales
I found one post on MTBR about the 26" Pike that said it was 565mm in the 160mm travel version. That seems high, and I was looking for another source.
No doubt. That is gotta be wrong. That is DH fork height.
No i'm talking about homeade spacers that folks have been using for years to drop RS forks.
If they do them similar to Revelation (rather than Lyrik) I would guess they are around 5mm shorter than the Fox offerings in the 32/34 segment. That google result I posted showed the 29" offerings were also running shorter than the Fox 34 29" models.
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pffft like that's gonna happen. 27.5 is forced obsolescence, and nothing like 15mm axles.
Anybody get ahold of the travel adjust version?
How's it workin?
How's it workin?
So, it is a little lower than a fox 36 and little higher than a fox 34 at the same travel. Good to know. Thanks.
My 26" Bronson C agrees...
I did, hated that it only came in White (in NZ anyway) but over that now. Very little riding time on it but it seems to be pretty good. Might get out for a ride tomorrow, this is a 29er one though. I assume it should perform similarly to a 26" or 650b
Pics?
keep us posted. I'm probably going to be picking one up in black in 26" when it is available (probably September I'm told). But I'd like to know how it works first. Hopefully by then some good long-term reviews will have surfaced of the Pike, the 'new' 34, and we'll know if X-Fusion has anything up its sleeve for the Slant.
i know some hubs work with the cheap $10-15 20 to 15mm atom lab converters.. thats what i did with my mavic crossline front wheel on my DJ.. i honestly thought it wasnt going to work with my wheel, but it did! if i bought some expensive hubs like hadley or CK, id expect all the spare axles to come with it.. but judging by how you wrote that, they dont.
i honestly think that if were going to have to play with all these axle sizes, bike companies should be including all the correct adapters for all the new 'standards'.. hell, azonic doesnt seem to have a problem giving you all the hardware and adapters you need on their cheap all around wheelset. (yeah... i know, novatech)
being a drafter and already creating my own hubs for a school project taught me its not that hard to make a hub that can play nice with everyone's 'standards'.. just gotta make sure your paying attention to what your drawing and not day dreaming about all the greebacks.
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with hadley's its not just a step down conversion / end cap kind of job. its an all new axle sleeve to ensure the hub retains no play. balle racing has them on their website if you want to see them.
i see now.. it would still be nice to have those included with a set of hubs that cost damn near what i make in a month.
butttttt im over here happy with my 'cheapie' hubs so its kinda pointless for me to speculate/complain/open my main flap..
butttttt im over here happy with my 'cheapie' hubs so its kinda pointless for me to speculate/complain/open my main flap..
you only make $500 a month? that's less than half of minimum wage. wtfi see now.. it would still be nice to have those included with a set of hubs that cost damn near what i make in a month.
butttttt im over here happy with my 'cheapie' hubs so its kinda pointless for me to speculate/complain/open my main flap..
So, first ride in, and to be honest I didn't notice them at all, which can only be a good thing. I am also on a new bike so its difficult to give an opinion on just the fork but nothing negative struck me on my first ride. The dual position air spring works really well and certainly feels better than a Fox Talas fork, the lockout does what it should while still remaining open enough that if you forget to unlock it it'll soak up some of the bigger stuff. It felt confidence inspiring out front, nice and secure.
I'll write more once I've had a play with the settings, so far I have the air pressure sorted (slightly higher than the guide but not as much as previous RS forks I have) and have set the LS compression to the middle.
Will the Pike lowers fit on 35mm Boxxers?
due to my job, i can only work so many days a week (usually 3-4 days a week), im trying to test up so i can finally move up in the rankzz
i think there have been lots of questions about the pike's stanchions fitting in other RS lowers. i do not think anyone has started messing around though.. fork hasnt been out that long.
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if you look on page 3, someone else asks if it'll fit in the lyric lower.. im assuming you also asked about the boxxer cause of the 20mm axle.
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I asked what I wanted, knowing everything you've stated for reasons you've not presumed. To perhaps spur somone on with the possabilities to measure both and make a more informed answer. Or for someone to think of some reason why they wouldn't fit, based on Boxxer knowledge.
I'd be curious as I'd like some light 160mm triples. And the weight penalty may not be that much more than the singles. Especially if you could somehow shorten the stanchions, something I'd say is not easily achievable or even possible(are Boxxer stanchions Butted?)(could new thread be cut?). Realistically it'd probably be better using 32mm boxxers and 32mm lowers that fitted for a light 160mm triple. Just something I'm curious about, not religious about. I suppose most AM frame tubes wouldn't be up for triple clamp beating.
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Ill be honest and say that what you are seemingly trying to achieve seems weird but anyways. If you are going to go to that much effort I know some 2008 spesh enduros came with 160mm dual crown forks. You will probably be better off seeing if you can get a hold of one of those forks.
Like dis one
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6029/5891133703_753a37d6cd_z.jpg
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I doubt the damper side foot nut is the same, at least for the R2C2/WC, since they have the giant nut for the dual rebound adjuster.
so I got off the pot and ordered one. solo air black on black for my Mojo HD. I'll be picking it up at my aunt and uncles across the border in a week. now for adapters and such. I have the headset and hub conversion parts lined up. but what about brakes? I'm running current XT w 203mm rotors. Do I need a special adapter or will it mount straight up to the posts?
might be time to find a new jurb
what benefit would you possibly gain from switching out lowers other than the ability to run a 20mm axle? please... enlighten me obi wan.
well, i just graduated with a drafting degree, so naturally i should be trying to find a job in my field.. but everything around here is mostly architectural drafting (which i hate), and not much for mechanical... so im probably just going to stay where im at right now (cause its awesome here), test up, and then start to work full time. (gotta move up to work full time)
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just read this.. you crazy son. but technically if you had the right tap, anything would be possible..
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There's more to a fork than external dimensions. I wish Specialized developed that fork more. Made a lot of sense to me. 70mm stem though from memory.
No, not to run the 20mm lowers, but the opposite. I want to know if new Pike Lowers will fit on some Boxxers, So I could have 160mm Boxxer chassis. And shorten the stanchions if possible as they'd not be needed so long. It wouldn't be possible to tap new thread if the tube had a bigger inside diameter where new thread was needed. Yes you could make a new top cap too, but blah blah blah. Also need new length damper rod etc, and shorter spring stack. Not much gain for a lot of work.
I'm curious as you'd have possibly a more durable fork, stiffer in some if not all directions. More spring options, not that that's probably needed. You'd not get any extra bushing from the lowers though. In short, you'd get a shorter, lighter, lower, lesser travel Boxxer. I think it'd be cool. But only enough to ask questions on the internetz, I highly doubt I'd ever bother perusing it. Triple clamp forks are more logical, this franken fork wouldn't gain all the possible benefits a 160mm triple clamp fork could have, but I'm still curious if it'd work. I reiterate, I'm just curious. I wonder what the weight and stiffness of a 32mm Boxxer with older model Pike lowers would be(if possible).
Cheers. Possibly could drill it out if casting permitted though, or am I missing something else?
Anyway, enough rambling derailing. More ride reports please.
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okay, well.. your right, i did have that wrong.
in theory, you should have a stiffer fork from the dual crown, that sound be fairly common sense.. although im a little confused to as where this is going and what the intended usage is for...? theres a few good reasons why 'trail bikes' have sc forks (which im sure you already know), and lets also not forget that most (if not, ALL) 'trail bike' frames cannot handle the additional stresses of a DC fork.
this seems ass backwards.. although maybe you can get a good deal on some kowas in your sig and start hacking!
in theory, you should have a stiffer fork from the dual crown, that sound be fairly common sense.. although im a little confused to as where this is going and what the intended usage is for...? theres a few good reasons why 'trail bikes' have sc forks (which im sure you already know), and lets also not forget that most (if not, ALL) 'trail bike' frames cannot handle the additional stresses of a DC fork.
this seems ass backwards.. although maybe you can get a good deal on some kowas in your sig and start hacking!
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I can see why someone would be interested in a dual crown fork in lower travel. Every single crown I have ever had (fox, marz, rockshox) have ended up being creaky. And if the axcel to crown is the same or lower I don't see how there would be any additional stress.
okay then, but lets not forget the huge reduction in turning radius that DC forks create.. sure its not a problem for the big bikes, but would you really want that on your trail bike? i sure as hell wouldn't.
my 32 fox on my dj doesnt make any noise at the crown, nor has any other fox fork ive owned (only owned fox stuff)... although it makes noise on the inside (what im assuming is a broken neg. spring), and i beat the piss outta that thing...
my 32 fox on my dj doesnt make any noise at the crown, nor has any other fox fork ive owned (only owned fox stuff)... although it makes noise on the inside (what im assuming is a broken neg. spring), and i beat the piss outta that thing...
Oh man, let it die already. Starting with a blank piece of paper, triple clamps will build either a lighter, lower, more travel and/or stiffer fork than a single crown fork. I was just curious about the Pike lowers, to see how close to what could actually be possible was. I didn't intend to debate the merits, or explain my question, I just wanted an answer for my own knowledge bank. I didn't purpose it'd be a better fork than the new Pike or Boxxer. I'm just curious.
There's not many good reasons at all why we have single crown 150mm+ forks. The main reason IMO is less longevity = sales. That's the most probable reason I can see.
I've never had a steering lock issue with current width triple clamp forks. Maybe with older forks. I find it a benefit if anything. A triple clamp fork does not put any more stress on a frame, if anything it'd put less as it'd be either shorter(less leverage), or have more travel if the same height, and the forces are dispersed over a larger area. This idea of more stress was to my understanding a misquote of a concept that evolved from people running longer travel forks back in the day, that were all triples as that's all that was available in 150mm+travel. Dented tubes from forks hitting frames with tubes that aren't made to withstand it are the main issue I see.
Sorry dude, only intended it to be one question, no longer than your equally uninformative post.
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Yes, it (damper) does not feel like the traditional semi-open bath RS stuff. Damping is consistent and very easy to tune. Like you can drop air pressure and make up for it w/ damping adjustments if you want to keep fork from diving or blowing through travel. Feels worlds different from Lyric and Revelation DH dampers. Nice and silent; no more swoosh, swoosh aerated oil sounds on rebound/compression. It's funny, the fork really feels like nothing special in the parking lot but comes alive blasting down rough trails.
Chassis stiffness is close to Lyric, but not quite as robust. Miles stiffer than Revelation.
Good fork, and looks mean all murdered out. If only it had a real 20mm thru axle. I hate buying new parts for no good reason or performance benefit.
Hopefully the RS QC gremlins don't infiltrate the bladder design. Blown bladders will kill this fork quickly.
Did I mention 15mm axles suck!!!!
Any drawback to using a sleeve to go from 15 to 20mm hub? Never used a 15mm hub, so not sure how they look up close. If anyone wants to guinea pig it, I can make one or two to try out just for the general good of the Monkey.
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