[5150]

I got a really good deal on a black GT 5.0 frame and I'm building a do-it-all play bike. My questions are as follows:

1. I know that the 5.0 frames are different than the 2.0 models. 5.0 is heavier, so that does mean it's a bit stronger than the 2.0 models?

2. I took out the shock on the frame, and when I move the rear triangle up and down the pivot, there is friction. I think the pivot does not have bearings and uses bushings on the pivot. Anywas, is there a way to make this smoother with less friction?

 

[Drewpy]

As to #1, and this is going to be a horrible answer, but yes, there have been improvements. A Canadian company has bought the iDrive name (and maybe others), I just can't remember their name. Word is that they're aloso honoring the warranties for Pacific-built iDrives.

Anyway, from what I understand, the welds are better and some of the problem areas of the frame have been cleared up.

 

[5150]

Hmm.. I guess I need to be more clear with my question. I was asking about the 2003 (or is it 2002?), it's the model right before GT was sold to Pacific. I'm compareing models in that year only. Between the 5.0 model and the 2.0 model. I know that the 5.0 model is cheaper made and is heavier. My questions is, is it stronger since it's heavier with thicker tubes?... or is that bad logic?

 

[Drewpy]

I don’t know the answer, but the logic doesn’t work. If that were true, a Roadmaster would be much stronger than my frame because it is heavier.

Sorry, I misunderstood your first question. I honestly thought 1.0 – 5.0 were the same frame, just came with different builds.

Shows what I know.

 

[Spudzie]

i'd love to answer this for you but my idrive is alil older then that (mines a '99) and since '99 alotta things have changed...but i can tell ya that idrives make great do all bikes.

just my opinion

 

[NastySid]

The 5.0 frame is probably just about as strong as the more expensive frames. THe lower the number the better the bike as allways with the GT brand. Most likely are the cheaper frames made from less exotic alininium and are only butted. Had a look at a 2002 or was it 2003 I-drive 1.0 and it was not heavy but it was no featheweight either..

The pivot uses bearings and the i.drive internals are machine bearings i belive.. Varies from year to year i think.

www.betd.co.uk has lot's of useful bits for the i-drive.

Sweet to ride too =)

 

[Skookum]

Originally posted by 5150
Hmm.. I guess I need to be more clear with my question. I was asking about the 2003 (or is it 2002?), it's the model right before GT was sold to Pacific. I'm compareing models in that year only. Between the 5.0 model and the 2.0 model. I know that the 5.0 model is cheaper made and is heavier. My questions is, is it stronger since it's heavier with thicker tubes?... or is that bad logic?

Yes it's bad logic. The 2.0, 1.0 and Team issued frames were handmade in the U.S. whereas the 3.0 on down were factory bikes from Taiwan. The 5.0 is far from indestructible, them bikes were made for XC that's why the head angle is so steep. So the 1.0 ain't a huck machine either if that's what you trying to find out.

as far as your linkage issues i don't think there's bushings in your pivot. I never had problems with the pivot link but the actual I-drive mechanism wears down. You might just need to grease the bearings in your I-drive......

good luck....

 

[5150]

I'm not trying to build a "huck machine". I have a DHi for that. Like you said, the 5.0 is made different (from taiwan with cheaper tubes) than the 2.0. The 2.0 costs more and is lighter. I'm just trying to see if the 5.0 is just as stong if not stronger.. that's all. No big deal, it's just something to talk about and since I do have the 5.0 frame, so it would just make me like my frame even more if it's the case that it's stronger (although heavier). I'm only compareing the 2 frames. Since the two frames are same design, i think maybe the logic of one being heavier with thicker tubes might mean it's stronger. (if the two frames had different designs, then the weight comparison will not mean much). Anyways, i guess it seems no one really knows for sure.

I checked out the BETD site. Thanks for the info. It's good to know I can get those parts there.

Hmm.. So I guess I was wrong about the pivots and even the 5.0 model has bearings on the main pivot? .. is this right?
Then that means it shouldn't have any friction.. right?
I'm gonig to have to take the dog bone link off and testing it again. ... to see if it's the iDrive or the main pivot is the reason for the friction.

 

[Skookum]

i'm not an expert, but heavier wieght doesn't always mean stronger. Handmade U.S. welds are gonna hold up better than a slapped together frame from the Far East most of the time.
Somebody posted a link on metals in the tech forum i think, it was very informative and gives you a little insight on different frame metals. sorry i can't recite much i have a terrible memory, and i'm too lazy to find the post and link it.