Shredded CheeseGuy I know just cracked his current gen carbon Nomad right down the middle of the top tube. Super weird failure. I ran into him in the parking lot after it happened, he said he didn't crash, but looked down and there was an 8" long crack right along the center of the tube.
well... gorillas are monkeys after all. maybe we're already there?Random thought. Since the forum is primarily occupied by threads related to how the industry sucks and how GG rules, and because half the major contributors are or will be on a GG, should we consider renaming this place RideGuerrilla?
gorillas are apes, not monkeys.well... gorillas are monkeys after all. maybe we're already there?
apes and humans are both hominids. so the name is wrong either way.gorillas are apes, not monkeys.
rid egg laying hominids? we're not doing human experimentsI thought it's all about Eggs?
you've said too much ......we're not doing human experiments
Well, yeah. But that's still an uncommon place for frames to fail in my experience.Like where the parting line from the mold would be?
Probably not a lot of stress is that area and direction but possibly a place for something to go wrong in the build process.Well, yeah. But that's still an uncommon place for frames to fail in my experience.
you have to select a frame, then enter your height about half way down. Boom!Okay, I spent 5 minutes looking for a current GG Geo Chart. Does anybody know exactly where it is?
@Shizzon is working on a pretty fancy spreadsheet comparison toolOkay, I spent 5 minutes looking for a current GG Geo Chart. Does anybody know exactly where it is?
Hi All,
I am working on a Geo. calculator for GG's bikes (Revv'ed platform + Pedalhead) and its getting close to being ready for prime time ( I sent it over to GG for Matt to look over my math if/when he gets a chance but it should be fairly accurate). The workbook allows one to play with all of the options built into the Revved platform (Frame Config, GeoAdjust Short/Long and Short/Tall and Trail/Gravity for the Megatrail/Shred Dogg. The workbook''s "Advanced" section accounts for actual fork AtoC (for selected model and travel) when solving for the geometry, while "The Basics" show the selected models geometry when configured with the recommended lower GeoAjust cup and fork travel.
As a secondary function, the workbook is also a detailed bike weight calculator with a decent selection of components already built into the drop down lists (and easily changed by user without much excel knowledge).
Conditional formatting is used to grey out cells that aren't applicable (note the images below) and I highlight cells when the "standard" configuration is not employed (e.g. you have the Tall GeoAdjust Cup in a Smash or Trail Pistol). The workbook does currently require one to "Enable Macros" when opening if you want the "Hide/Show Advanced" and "Hide/Show Component" toggles to work.
In use, the worksheet can help one to see how the various settings/configurations will affect not only geometry (BB height, STA, HTA etc.) but also the Fit; for instance, in the attached images I have used the calculator to maintain handlebar Stack and Reach between my existing S3 Pedalhead and my new S4 Smash (with Smash in Short setting, +10mm from Pedalhead when in long).
View attachment 141356View attachment 141357
If anyone is interested in playing around with a BETA version (i.e. not yet checked for accuracy by GG's resident Enginerd) of the workbook let me know and ill send it your way. I am very open to feedback and am looking to make the calculator as easy/intuitive to use as possible. I would love for few monkey's to put it through the ringer for me and let me know what they like and what they don't.
Regards,
Shawn
you have to select a frame, then enter your height about half way down. Boom!
paging @mtg , mtg to the white courtesy phone.I just wanna know Reach and WB difference between 3-4 is it still 490 for the 3?
Regardless of frame, I’d advise against it.Anyone OneUp their fork on a Revved frame? Wondering if there will be an issue with pre-loading the adjustable headset?
the tapped steerer version or the stem version?Anyone OneUp their fork on a Revved frame? Wondering if there will be an issue with pre-loading the adjustable headset?
Regardless of frame, I’d advise against it.
More of a PITA trail side than it’s worth if you need to straighten your bars for whatever reason. (I have one...)
how so?Regardless of frame, I’d advise against it.
More of a PITA trail side than it’s worth if you need to straighten your bars for whatever reason.
Unless you have a chainring tool it is hard to tighten properly. The splines are shallow and the tool that comes with it only has two engagement points. More likely to strip out splines than tighten the headset, hell you have to be super careful with a proper chainring tool not to strip it out. It would be wise to sacrifice a few grams and make the splines deeper.how so?
Stolen from BMX? I remember similar designs being popular when steerers were just starting to move away from threaded 1" tubes. I guess it is possible that also came from the BMX world.the tapped steerer version or the stem version?
IMO the tapped steerer configuration that OneUpdevelopedcopied from BMX is probably better than traditional star fangled nuts.
all you're trying to do is preload the bearings so there's no play. it doesn't need that much torque.Unless you have a chainring tool it is hard to tighten properly. The splines are shallow and the tool that comes with it only has two engagement points. More likely to strip out splines than tighten the headset, hell you have to be super careful with a proper chainring tool not to strip it out. It would be wise to sacrifice a few grams and make the splines deeper.
That being said if you need to adjust your stem trailside, don't loosen the headset.
bmx forks have been using tapped & threaded steerers for over a decade.Stolen from BMX? I remember similar designs being popular when steerers were just starting to move away from threaded 1" tubes. I guess it is possible that also came from BMX world's.
Sorry, I confused myself, I was talking about the stem clamping thing.bmx forks have been using tapped & threaded steerers for over a decade.
you mean the oneup edc stem?Sorry, I confused myself, I was talking about the stem clamping thing.
My particular install came on a used bike that clearly had a star nut installed at one point, perhaps the threads are far from pristine. All I can say is that even with clean and lubricated threads the built-in tool is not sufficient because it cannot stay in the splines. YMMV.all you're trying to do is preload the bearings so there's no play. it doesn't need that much torque.
i installed mine in a previously star fangled steerer. i didn't notice any particular difficulties tightening it, but to be fair i haven't tried the built in tool from EDC (only a cassette tool). it's possible whoever tapped the steerer you're using didn't go deep enough or tap it properly (1/2 forward 1/4 back) or use any lubricant.My particular install came on a used bike that clearly had a star nut installed at one point, perhaps the threads are far from pristine. All I can say is that even with clean and lubricated threads the built-in tool is not sufficient because it cannot stay in the splines. YMMV.
For The Smash:I just wanna know Reach and WB difference between 3-4 is it still 490 for the 3?
2 Allen keys required on opposite sides of stem to load it and lock it.how so?
i wasn't referring to the stem. that configuration seems..... frustrating.2 Allen keys required on opposite sides of stem to load it and lock it.
Ah, I was... EDC stem is silly. But I assumed the initial question related to it.i wasn't referring to the stem. that configuration seems..... frustrating.
My calculator shows the following:I just wanna know Reach and WB difference between 3-4 is it still 490 for the 3?