you can go to 157, and going to 148 only needs a flat file!
Guerrilla Gravity, badass frame manufacturer in Colorado
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And a fancy dished brake rotor.
1mm per side? I'd think that falls within any caliper's range of mounting adjustability.And a fancy dished brake rotor.
157 yes, 148 no.
It's more than that. Yes, the OLD is only 2mm different, but a 148mm boost hub has the same 3.5mm flanges that overlap with the dropout that a 142mm or 157mm hub has. So both the rotor and outside of the freehub are 4.5mm further outboard on a 150mm hub than they are on a 148mm. The cassette locknut is almost certainly going to rub, and you're not going to get the brake rotor to line up without some trickery.
"The Industry" will probably be on to 162.125 boost evo metric by then.
Interesting. I haven't tried the Shimano 11 speed stuff, but the Sram 1x11 systems have virtually no chain drop while back pedaling, ime, with the chainline per Sram recommendation.
That being said, where possible, I'm leaving room to run a chainline 2mm narrower than recommended for situations like that.
That's what the evil site says. I have a turbine cinch crankset, maybe the absolute black ring isn't offset enough? maybe I'm retarded? I drop chains in 1 and 2, and after a couple of revolutions in three. Maybe the oval ring is making it worse?
According to this:http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/12/03/wolf-tooth-components-cinches-down-on-race-face-compatible-direct-mount-chainrings/
the RF cinch chainline is 51mm.
Chainline
49.9mm
from the abolute blork website. so I'm off by 0.9mm.
49.9mm
from the abolute blork website. so I'm off by 0.9mm.
I suspect the difference between dropping a chain and not dropping a chain when backpedaling is around .8-1.0mm.
welcome to 2016, where our crank interfaces no longer allow you to space out your chainrings, and our cogsets aren't centered, and there are 8 hub standards.
This, ladies and gentlemen, is the result of allowing "the industry" make decisions on its own, and is unfortunately all true.
"The Industry" = collection of aging, otherwise unemployable marketing twats, whose acid flashbacks from their glory days give them insight into the technical decisions that make this "industry" what it is. It's their penetrating "vision" that makes them totally qualified to be in charge of engineering departments and decisions too, by the way.
Well, there is just, like, one small problem with that giant claimrant©: you can adjust the chainline on RF Cinch cranks.
ooh, please do tell how I can adjust the chainline on my cinch cranks on a bb92 frame with no spacers on the drive side when I need it closer to the drive side shell! If it's so abundantly obvious, why doesn't raceface have any information on it on their website? I'm dead serious, if I'm just being an asshole and you know something I don't, I'll eat my humble pie and backpedal in the top three gears. FWIW, this appears to be a problem with almost all shimano 11 speed XT drivetrains...mine is just worse.
From what I can see, the only option I can do is to file down my BB shell or put a spacer between the chainring and crank, then hope that there's enough redundancy in the threads that I won't shear off the bolt. Since that already started creaking once, I'd prefer to avoid it.
Again, make me a damned 29er with a SCREW IN bottom bracket and a nice stout rear end. SCREW IN. THREADED. UGH
Don't think that would actually move the chainline in any, only move the right crankarm out some. The only good solution is a chainring with more offset.
There is a DS spacer that you can move to the NDS if you have sufficient CS clearance.
Not on a 92mm press-fit BB which Sandwich has.
Oh yeah, like SDeath said, press fit is the problem. With a threaded BB (which we use on everything), the drive side BB cup has a 2.5mm spacer between it and the frame by default. Adjusting that moves the chainline.
http://www.raceface.com/media/Crank_Q-factors_and_chainlines.pdf
I may be totally misunderstanding the chart, but it seems like you can flip the chainring (in the direct mount, 1X setup) to change the chainline, albeit by a fairly significant margin. Also, I just just recently switched from a RF direct mount chainring to a Wolf Tooth, and I was surprised by how much more inboard the chainline is now - which has turned out to be a good thing from a shifting standpoint.
I may be totally misunderstanding the chart, but it seems like you can flip the chainring (in the direct mount, 1X setup) to change the chainline, albeit by a fairly significant margin. Also, I just just recently switched from a RF direct mount chainring to a Wolf Tooth, and I was surprised by how much more inboard the chainline is now - which has turned out to be a good thing from a shifting standpoint.
You aren't misunderstanding it, but it would only move the chainline out, way out. As you said the chainline on the Wolf Tooth (at 49mm) is way better than the 51mm on the Cinch direct mount ring.
You aren't misunderstanding it, but that's already been done.
tl;dr deal with it, then buy a SRAM cassette in the future.
I'm talking about between the chainring and the arm. That should space the ring back toward the center while keeping the arm in position. The only problem is that there's not a lot of room on the interface for any kind of a spacer. I'm more inclined to just deal with it, since it's only bad in the 42t, and I'm only in that ring when things get really bad, which don't usually need a lot of pedal kicks, just more suffering.
tl;dr deal with it, then buy a SRAM cassette in the future.
If you do that though, you have the lip of the cup on the drive side, the bearing cover, the chainring lockring, then the chainring itself. None of this moves the chainring any closer to the center of the bike. Amiright?
does the lockring rest against the bearing cover? I guess that would say whether it would work or not.
My guess is that the only thing I can actually do is swap in a spinder and throw on a 64/104 BCD ring with spacers instead.
My guess is that the only thing I can actually do is swap in a spinder and throw on a 64/104 BCD ring with spacers instead.
Yep, an non-boost spider and chainring should allow you the ability to shift stuff inboard.
That is correct, and it's how we get the 55mm chainline on the Pedälhead: 73mm threaded BB, flip the ring, and adjust with the BB spacer.
