Guerrilla Gravity, badass frame manufacturer in Colorado
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That Mega SS...
Aggressive trail....check!
No carbonz....check!
BSA BB....check!
Swoopy TT....I maybe can get used to that.
Boost rear end.... WTF??????
While I agree with most of that, are you suggesting with thisthat Taiwanese and Chinese are not real people?! Let me quote you again...
Maybe I worded it wrong. I mean real as in "posts on Ridemonkey", is not an anonymous person somewhere. Never seen one of SpecialEds TW/chinese fabricators posting up here, never seen them on a group ride or at a promo event. Who knows, maybe they don't even exist and the evil S has an army of robots making the bikes?
that Taiwanese and Chinese are not real people?! Let me quote you again...
#makefakenewsgreatagain
Based on visual evidence, I'd say the SS is missing a link compared to the Spitfire
If you already have a Spitty, why would you want to ditch it and get one of these? I have a V2 spitty and if I were to get another bike, I'd get something in a different category (like the regular Megatrail).
i have a '15 v2 spitty. i was originally between that and the OG megatrail (RIP 26") but ultimately decided the MT would be too much bike for the majority of the trails i'd be riding it on (and i got a smokin' deal on a spitfire)
So lemme ask this question, are the Megatrail and the Megatrail SS the same frame? IE is the SS just a Megatrail with a 150mm fork, and a shorter stroke shock? Or is it a different frame? I was looking over the geometry charts & build specs(same shock length on both, but shorter storke on SS) and it looks that way to me, but I could be wrong...
Yeah, the geo charts make it look like the same frame with a different stroke shock and shorter fork.
There is a Lyrik that can do 180/150, so that would be pretty sweet for a bike park / trail bike, in addition to maybe a coil shock for the bike park with the longer stroke.
148mm rear axle: we have standardized rear hubs across all models; the vast majority of people that have an opinion on rear axle size, in our experience, prefer 148; rear spoke tensions are virtually identical with our offset design; many 142 hubs can be converted with adapters; and if you do have to change wheels, the DT Swiss Super Awesomes that we stock are strong, not heavy, and very reasonably priced.That Mega SS...
Made by real people....check!
Aggressive trail....check!
No carbonz....check!
BSA BB....check!
Swoopy TT....I maybe can get used to that.
Boost rear end.... WTF??????
Exactly. My wife is getting a new Megatrail, and that's likely her plan.
it can go 140mm as well I chatted with Shaun about it when I was getting my stuff freshened up , I don,t think they offer a trail adjust model it,s pick a travel and run that
as in front triangle ?or triangle and swing arm/stays? , if they are the same apart from shock travel would one not be able to 29" the new Mega Trail as well ??
also thinking out loud after seeing versions of my (Kona Entourage & Process 167) last two bikes being run with a triple clamp set-up , what are your guys thoughts ?? I am sure some parkrat will throw a 200mm on the front and let it rip LOL .
i suspect it would be due to clearance as the swingarm cycles through the travel.
The whole frame is the same, so with two shocks, and a travel adjust fork you could have both the Megatrail and Megatrail SS.
No dual crown fork on the Megatrail.
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I assume that if I buy wheels from you I can't add one of Kidwoo's stickers to the bike, or?
Unfortunately I also have a large supply of wheels that I gave a new home after they were kicked out from their previous homes because their owners tried to compensate for something with wheel size.
And I have a couple of those super awesome handbuilt 559 EnduRad wheels that are 30% stiffer, 15% lighter, 20% faster accelerating and significantly more playful than current 650b wheels. They also have 135 x 12 hubs for a narrower footprint so you can slip better through those gaps in the gnar rokx.
Anyway, can you run a "normal" 1x crankset or do you need to go boost there as well?
This thread needs more Pepto Shred! and Boostkiller!
Mrs. Lobster's first DH bike. Built by Husband.
A Small GG DH with 148Boost rear dumbed down to 142. 83mm bb with crankset shimmed for 50MM chainline. Boost killing the rear in this case was pretty easy. Just a 3mm piece of aluminum at the brake mount, longer brake mount bolts, and 2 3mm rings at the rear axle. McMaster is an easy source for those materials.
I did the build this way so my wife can use her trail bike wheel set for DH without changing dish. I wasn't sure this all would work when I started. She has Hadley's with 2nd generation Derby DH rims. Thanks to @Udi for the adjustable reach headset thread. I extended the reach with the works components headset and used a 20mm negative rise stem to get fitment issues dialed in to her liking. She was a professional equestrian in her younger days, and I was astonished during the build how sensitive she was to small changes. The small seat was needed to alleviate the rear tire hitting the seat when deep in its suspension travel.
I can't comment on how the bike rides, but I liked the frame a lot from a builder's perspective. All relevant tubes were very nicely reamed and faced. Surfaces that need tight tolerances like shock mounts, rear brake mount, etc. were very neatly taped off during powder coating. The front triangle/rear triangle alignment and smoothness of the suspension cycle and shock mount cycle are the best on this frame, of any of the nice bikes I've had my hands on. RWC 2185 needle bearing kits fit very well with the shock mounts. A 2011 intense uzi was terrible, and my frame of reference for the other end of the spectrum from GG for frame/shock alignment.
Someone must have left a window cracked open, and I surmise some of that Colorado bong shed air got down to the factory floor. Someone dinged the head tube pretty well after someone else had previously done a beautiful job facing it. Not a big deal and easy to correct with a few minutes file work. Fortunately, my wife is very un-dental with her bikes, and the small ding will be small potatoes in no time. Her nomad looks like she purchased it on a street corner in a war zone.
Only other build issue was the small hole drilled in the rear triangle for internal cable routing. The inside of the hole had a burr that made running the cable really difficult. Finally it dawned on me I could reach the burr through the hole with a small stone globe bit on my dremmel tool.
All in all, I like the frame and I liked talking to the people at GG. Seem like good folks. I think it takes a certain proportion of brains and balls for a small company to compete with the heavy lizards and succeed. Props to GG for their achievement.
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so if one had a gen 1 megatrail, could you short shock it and use a shorter fork to essentially make it a gen 0.5 ss?
45 Pages and i havent called anyone a douchebag..
Good job
Good job
I wanted to ask about the offset boost rear end. Is this for better chainline with XT level 11 speed setups? Does it require a boost chainring/crank, or normal? Is the rear wheel without dish?
Sure. The Gen1 uses a 7.875x2.25 shock, and 7.875x2.0s are widely available. That's the same idea as the new SS, same eye to eye with a shorter stroke.
Yeah, apparently a bunch of folks think SS means singlespeed or slopestyle. It means short stroke. Although, it is intended to be the modern version of the slopestyle-ish trail bike, so that one is a bit more understandable.
Cranks: designed for a 55mm chainline. That's doable with a lot of setups; if you're looking to reuse some cranks you already have, often times the chainring can be replaced with a direct mount or the Wolftooth Camo system, and/or BB or spindle spacers can be used to adjust chainline.
The rear hub is offset 3mm, which pushed the cassette oudtboard 3mm over a typical 148 rear end, which is why the chainring is also 3mm outboard of a normal Boost setup. It allowed more tire clearance and approx even rear spoke tension on both sides of the wheel.
Cranks: designed for a 55mm chainline. That's doable with a lot of setups; if you're looking to reuse some cranks you already have, often times the chainring can be replaced with a direct mount or the Wolftooth Camo system, and/or BB or spindle spacers can be used to adjust chainline.
The rear hub is offset 3mm, which pushed the cassette oudtboard 3mm over a typical 148 rear end, which is why the chainring is also 3mm outboard of a normal Boost setup. It allowed more tire clearance and approx even rear spoke tension on both sides of the wheel.
Are you talking about trying to set up a Megatrail with a 50mm chainline, or are you asking a hypothetical frame design question?
silly shenanigans
smoke shed
Super Sport