dammit, i might have to sell a bike or 2.
Guerrilla Gravity, badass frame manufacturer in Colorado
- Thread starter mtg
- Start date
Maybe "accidentally" place a bike or 2 near the anticipated landing area of soon to be topped trees. Crush bike, call homeowners insurance, profit.
Seriously, I'm lusting over that frame more than anything else on the market. May need to cash out that stupid 529 account.
mtg: can I take a demo out for a test ride next week?
Ive been having the new frame itch and that thing looks pretty sick...
will someone please explain how Im going to ride a 25" TT??
Im 5'10" and riding a Reign X right now with a 23.2" TT and a 50mm stem..I have an angleset on it so its got a 66deg HA
My reach feels just about right..i could see going a little bit longer but not over 1.75" longer..
the process 153 has a 23.66" TT and is considered long?
Does the steeper seat tube angle make up for some of the extra length??
sorry for the stupid question..im not a bike engineer..I just like to shred them..
will someone please explain how Im going to ride a 25" TT??
Im 5'10" and riding a Reign X right now with a 23.2" TT and a 50mm stem..I have an angleset on it so its got a 66deg HA
My reach feels just about right..i could see going a little bit longer but not over 1.75" longer..
the process 153 has a 23.66" TT and is considered long?
Does the steeper seat tube angle make up for some of the extra length??
sorry for the stupid question..im not a bike engineer..I just like to shred them..
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i'm honestly considering selling my dh bike, i only get to the bigger DH parks (platty et al) a few times a year anymore. i guess my concern would be if i could really beat on this like a true DH rig on the few occasions i goMaybe "accidentally" place a bike or 2 near the anticipated landing area of soon to be topped trees. Crush bike, call homeowners insurance, profit.
Seriously, I'm lusting over that frame more than anything else on the market. May need to cash out that stupid 529 account.
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While I sympathize with the lack of park days, I tried this concept last season and am building up a new DH bike this year. While my nomad with 170 lyrik was capable of riding highland, it beat the crap out of me and wasn't nearly as fun as a big bike. Given Highlands diminutive size, the nomad at a place like Bromont, Platty or even Sunday River would be a sufferfest.
Since you already have a DH bike I'd just hang onto it and see if you can find the time for it. My bike was totally clapped out so I needed to start fresh or stop riding DH (finding rentals or used large enough for me is impossible, even at parks like Trestle with large rental fleets).
that's pretty much what i'm worried about. thanks for the input.
Jon- I'm not sure I'd ditch your DH bike as it's still pretty hooked up, but I'm actually looking forward to trying my enderpo on lighter (and more serious) DH trails. A well-built, shorter travel bike with great geometry should still be able to hang with the big boys, just maybe not as fast through brutal terrain. I mean, pietermaritzberg was heavily contested by folks on road bikes, for crying out loud.
Also, late-season highland braking bumps are as brutal as anything I've ever ridden. The combination of high speeds, heavy compression from g forces through berms, and repetitive bumps would burn through travel so fast it's not even funny. Even with 8 inches you still get beat up, and if you're using suspension that's sticky and doesn't move freely, it's extra brutal.
Also, late-season highland braking bumps are as brutal as anything I've ever ridden. The combination of high speeds, heavy compression from g forces through berms, and repetitive bumps would burn through travel so fast it's not even funny. Even with 8 inches you still get beat up, and if you're using suspension that's sticky and doesn't move freely, it's extra brutal.
i've definitely got my DH bike dialed.
the problem is funding. the DH bike is one of 2 rides i have that i could sell and get an amount of change that would put me reasonably in the ball park of a new ride. the other bike that could get me some change isn't gonna go on the chopping block (xc hardtail).
yeah, that's pretty much the boat I was/am in. hoping the trenduro will survive a day or two at platty, should I get the opportunity. The thought of renting the 3-4 lift days I'll get this year was really unappealing, but the thought of owning a DH bike 10x that value and letting it collect dust was even less...
This ^^^ made me built a simple DH rig for this season at Highland. The braking bumps beat the crap out of me and my Mojo HD.
For the most accurate comparison you'll need to figure out the Reach measurement on your Reign. It's something that Giant should publish, but they don't currently do it.Ive been having the new frame itch and that thing looks pretty sick...
will someone please explain how Im going to ride a 25" TT??
Im 5'10" and riding a Reign X right now with a 23.2" TT and a 50mm stem..I have an angleset on it so its got a 66deg HA
My reach feels just about right..i could see going a little bit longer but not over 1.75" longer..
the process 153 has a 23.66" TT and is considered long?
Does the steeper seat tube angle make up for some of the extra length??
sorry for the stupid question..im not a bike engineer..I just like to shred them..
so distance between the 90deg angle from BB and HT??
Ive also noticed most manufactures measure the TT length from different locations...the giant is from the center of the HT to the back of the seat mast..the kona is center to center..
another thing Id like to know about this frame is rear end stiffness..if I was to get one I wouldnt be able to check it out in person first most likley..
My main gripe with the ReignX is the side to side stiffness of the rear triangle..the center of the bike is really stiff but the rear end not so much
Im running stiff carbon wheels and Im twisting up that rear end when railing turns..The brake drags when I lean it over and I get this weird wiggly sensation when I g-out....I just snapped an axle from stuffing a berm too hard so I know its moving around allot back there..I dont think going from 135x12 to 142x12 in itself will solve the problem...Im looking for something bomber in the rear end that I can really push hard in the turns and have it feel rock solid..
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^this
i think about this every season. but I stay with the status quo because...since I only get 10-12 lift-served days a season, I want to have the most fun each time I go out. And I have the most fun when everything is optimum; geometry, travel, suspension setup.
The adage, Jack of all trades--Master of none, applies here. IMHO, no matter how much a manufacturer states/markets that their bike is a do-it-all bike (and I'm sure a few comes close), it's still not going to equal a dialed purpose-specific bike.
Yep, straight up from the center of the BB and the horizontal distance to the center/top of the HT.
You are correct that the ST angle is going to affect the TT length, but it won't affect the reach measurement.
I feel your pain. I've ridden my DH bike so little since I've had kids it's sad. When I do get to ride is on annual bike trips, and I'm stuck choosing between my AM bike and the DH bike. Riding an AM bike on DH terrain sucks though. You can do it fine, but it's not as much fun - which is the whole point. I think the answer is something that can take an 8" fork up front with 7-8" of travel in back with a seat-tube angle that's climbing friendly. It would at least provide more opportunities to use the bike without giving up much at the resorts.
Nick: c'mon down to GG
wydopen: literally everybody that has hopped on and ridden a Megatrail has agreed with the sizing so far. At 5'10", you are a candidate to run a 35mm long stem on a medium. Recall that Dave Trumpore is 5'9" and chose the medium with a 35mm stem.
Also measure the amount of offset you're running at the seat post. I've heard people complain at the MT being too long, then they realized they had over an inch of offset at the seatpost, which effectively adds to the ETT length.
And, the last point is that longer reaches are the way things are headed for a reason. Even people that have doubted the length and have ridden the MT changed their minds and preferred the longer reach after riding it.
For reference, here's the reach numbers on the Megatrail:
Small: 16.75"
Medium: 17.75"
Large: 18.75"
wydopen: literally everybody that has hopped on and ridden a Megatrail has agreed with the sizing so far. At 5'10", you are a candidate to run a 35mm long stem on a medium. Recall that Dave Trumpore is 5'9" and chose the medium with a 35mm stem.
Also measure the amount of offset you're running at the seat post. I've heard people complain at the MT being too long, then they realized they had over an inch of offset at the seatpost, which effectively adds to the ETT length.
And, the last point is that longer reaches are the way things are headed for a reason. Even people that have doubted the length and have ridden the MT changed their minds and preferred the longer reach after riding it.
For reference, here's the reach numbers on the Megatrail:
Small: 16.75"
Medium: 17.75"
Large: 18.75"
As far as the quiver goes, we designed the Megatrail to cover the bases between aggressive trail riding up to gnarly enduro stages and riding a handful of bike park days per season.
I'm still going to be riding my GG/DH at Whistler's bike park, Angel Fire and Keystone, where the gnar is strong. However, the Megatrail in Gravity Mode is what I'll be riding at Trestle/Winter Park, which is more bike parky.
I'm still going to be riding my GG/DH at Whistler's bike park, Angel Fire and Keystone, where the gnar is strong. However, the Megatrail in Gravity Mode is what I'll be riding at Trestle/Winter Park, which is more bike parky.
First hand riding is obviously the best choice, and we're heading out on a West Coast tour in a couple weeks, starting with Sea Otter and heading up to Port Angeles with a few stops along the way for demo rides. Any chance you're going to Sea Otter?
Read the Vital review again...Dave didn't specifically say anything about frame flex, but mentioned that the MT begged to be ridden harder and faster.
And, I hate flexy frames, as does Trevor, our pro racer who was heavily involved in the development. So, when in doubt, I go for overkill on stiffness. On the MT, take a look at the pivot box area, which has a 17mm pivot axle riding on angular contact bearings, with really wide clamping areas, a big chainstay brace tube in front of the tire, etc. The seat stay pivot by the rear axle has a pair of dual row angular contact bearings mounted in a double shear clevis, and everything has a "tubular" structure vs "plate". Those are some of the things done to make sure it is stiff.
Examples (Dave Trumpore photos):
Where do you live? We have a bike headed out that way...but when will you be on the east coast with demos
Hmmmm, don't know about a Megatrail, but there will hopefully be a GG/DH in the area around june.
Should negative rep you for posting that. I was sitting here, privately saying to myself "meh, my Blur LTc is stiffer than my DH bike, and that thing is probably a noodle which would fold in half under my gnar...plus, it's not designed to handle east coast rox given that it was built and tested in CO, where its all groomed buffery and park tables...whew, my bank account is safe".First hand riding is obviously the best choice, and we're heading out on a West Coast tour in a couple weeks, starting with Sea Otter and heading up to Port Angeles with a few stops along the way for demo rides. Any chance you're going to Sea Otter?
Read the Vital review again...Dave didn't specifically say anything about frame flex, but mentioned that the MT begged to be ridden harder and faster.
And, I hate flexy frames, as does Trevor, our pro racer who was heavily involved in the development. So, when in doubt, I go for overkill on stiffness. On the MT, take a look at the pivot box area, which has a 17mm pivot axle riding on angular contact bearings, with really wide clamping areas, a big chainstay brace tube in front of the tire, etc. The seat stay pivot by the rear axle has a pair of dual row angular contact bearings mounted in a double shear clevis, and everything has a "tubular" structure vs "plate". Those are some of the things done to make sure it is stiff.
Examples (Dave Trumpore photos):
All the while knowing you probably went out of your way to make that thing as stiff as Fred Phelps' corpse.
Seriously, thanks for the info - good stuff.
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edit: just went to change rear tires and noticed my chainstay is cracked..looks like ill be in touch sooner than I thought
thanks for the response, id call or email but it would prob answer other peoples questions who are reading it...I wasn't planning on sea otter but maybe I should reconsider...Ive been wanting a new frame but there isnt really anything Im in love with and that I would think would be that much better than what Im riding..i like the process 153 but I just bought a 26" pike and wheels..this is one of a couple bikes that really has my interest...
ideally id like to transfer all my existing parts over but buying a new stem inst an issue (please renthal make a 35mm stem soon) My seatpost does have some offset (command post) and Im running the seat pretty far forward as it is..
how is that thing with a regular shock like an RP23 or CTD? Night and day to the CCDB? I have a shock already and the frame only price is about all I could spend even though Id love the CCDB..would be cool to hear a ride report with an "average" shock..
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Ha ha ha. Yep, nothing but smooth jump trails hereShould negative rep you for posting that. I was sitting here, privately saying to myself "meh, my Blur LTc is stiffer than my DH bike, and that thing is probably a noodle which would fold in half under my gnar...plus, it's not designed to handle east coast rox given that it was built and tested in CO, where its all groomed buffery and park tables...whew, my bank account is safe".
All the while knowing you probably went out of your way to make that thing as stiff as Fred Phelps' corpse.
Seriously, thanks for the info - good stuff.
No problem. The DB Air CS is a masterpiece, and rides awesome. But, the frame still rides well with "average" shocks. I've put some miles in on an X Fusion O2 RCX, and the Vector Air as well. The base level X Fusion stuff works surprisingly well for the price, and the Vector Air is actually quite good. Basically, the goal was to not do anything weird in the leverage curve or other kinematics that a shock would have to overcome. So, any decent shock should work fine. It's a 200x57, btw.
Made from buttery soft sandstone too.
Square edged hit? Just dribble some water from your camelback and sculpt as needed.
You will be sculpting them with pedals when in the gravity mode having a 12.7" high BB.
i've ridden a BB that low before.You will be sculpting them with pedals when in the gravity mode having a 12.7" high BB.
and yes.
I've heard the rocks are essentially the same as extra firm pillows, and that some riders even take brief naps after going OTB into their foamy embrace. As I understand it, GG's next bike will be a slightly updated version of the Breezer bike, since they don't really need suspension out there.
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mtg - can you post up what the various build specs are?
cool thanks.
