[Montana rider]

I hoped to invest in N+1 this year, but 3 house "rich" = cash poor so I decided to swap out the fork and rear shock on my unrideabru Yeti ASR5 this summer and regift it to the wife when N+1 rolls around next winter.

I have an aversion to retail pricing so I checked the usual places: Jenson, Chain Reaction etc but couldn't find a good fit (price/specs)

I think this is what I have (I know I got the last year of production on the alloy ASR-5)

https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Yeti/ASR-5-Alloy-Enduro,6843

Rear Travel 127mm
Rear Shock Fox RP23 (mine came with lesser shock)
Fork Fox 32 F140 Fit RLC (mine came with garbage CTD fork)
Fork Travel 140mm
Head Tube Diameter 1.5" Taper

Do I have to measure the rear shock (bolt to bolt) to find the proper length for rear shock or is there somewhere on Yeti archives I can get accurate OEM specs?

and don't like to futz with suspension so I will gladly mail a 6 pack of MT Microbrew and a loaf of homemade sourdough bread to anyone who can point me in the right direction...

 

[StiHacka]

You can do that, or you can look in this Yeti manual which says that the shock is 7.875 x 2.0
https://yeticycles.s3.amazonaws.com/static/pdfs/2012_OwnersManual_ASR5.pdf

I think I have a fitting shock if you were interested, a Monarch Plus RC3.

 

[jonKranked]

I might have a fork I'd be willing to sell that fits your criteria. It's set at 160mm travel now but can be set down to 140mm.

 

[Montana rider]

You can do that, or you can look in this Yeti manual which says that the shock is 7.875 x 2.0
https://yeticycles.s3.amazonaws.com/static/pdfs/2012_OwnersManual_ASR5.pdf

I think I have a fitting shock if you were interested, a Monarch Plus RC3

Thanks for googling that for me...

I might have a fork I'd be willing to sell that fits your criteria. It's set at 160mm travel now but can be set down to 140mm.

Cool beans, assuming they have good life left, let me know a fair monkey /////price and more importantly what style of beer you'd like in your care package...

@StiHacka, I assume you'd prefer a "cloudy" high gravity DIPA or the like...

 

[jdcamb]

The leverage ratio of your rear shock is adjusted (Valved) for your frames leverage ratio. To low and your bike will wallow in its stroke and possibly effect your rebound. To high and you might not get full travel and your rebound may be effected so that even in it slowest setting it may be to fast....

 

[jonKranked]

Pm sent.

 

[jonKranked]

Question about the shock... What exactly about it don't you like? You might wanna consider having it custom tuned.

 

[Montana rider]

The leverage ratio of your rear shock is adjusted (Valved) for your frames leverage ratio. To low and your bike will wallow in its stroke and possibly effect your rebound. To high and you might not get full travel and your rebound may be effected so that even in it slowest setting it may be to fast....

Question about the shock... What exactly about it don't you like? You might wanna consider having it custom tuned.

Thanks for the nudge to dive deeper into research.

When poking around for beta on OEM/replacement shocks for the ASR, I found this blurb on MTBR (below) which seems to agree with jdcamb's POV (i.e. shock should be 'tuned' for frame)

If my OEM shock was the 'nicer' RP23 instead of Fox Float CTD (which I was never overly fond of...), I'd be more interested in getting my old shock PUSHED.

I guess I could find a gently used 'fancier' one (or buy the one from @StiHacka) and then spend $159+ to get it tuned to the frame.

Flipside: I'm a fat/slow hack on my bike and not sure I'd notice much difference as long as I could dial in the new shock.

The bike has always seemed more comfortable going down techy trails than I am...
+++++

I would be a little careful here - the RP23 for the ASR5 is tuned for its specific characteristics (velocity tune, rebound tune, and boost valve setting). Since ASR5 is a single pivot, it relies heavily on the shock to resist pedal bob in the early stages of travel, and then the shock must open up towards the later part of travel to get the full range.

For example, If you look at the leverage ratio on this bike and the shock travel throughout the range of wheel travel, you'll see a couple things:

1) For the first inch of real wheel travel, you get a high amount of shock travel (the seatstay is directly in line with the axis of the shock)
2) Towards the 3rd/4th inch of travel, the shock is now at an angle, and each inch of wheel movement has a little LESS shock travel

The RP23 chosen for the ASR5 takes this all into consideration and has a boost valve setting that is position sensitive: I'm guessing tuned to resist motion in the first inch of travel and (relatively) lighter resistance in the later range of travel.

 

[jonKranked]

Thanks for the nudge to dive deeper into research.

When poking around for beta on OEM/replacement shocks for the ASR, I found this blurb on MTBR (below) which seems to agree with jdcamb's POV (i.e. shock should be 'tuned' for frame)

If my OEM shock was the 'nicer' RP23 instead of Fox Float CTD (which I was never overly fond of...), I'd be more interested in getting my old shock PUSHED.

I guess I could find a gently used 'fancier' one (or buy the one from @StiHacka) and then spend $159+ to get it tuned to the frame.

Flipside: I'm a fat/slow hack on my bike and not sure I'd notice much difference as long as I could dial in the new shock.

The bike has always seemed more comfortable going down techy trails than I am...
+++++

I would be a little careful here - the RP23 for the ASR5 is tuned for its specific characteristics (velocity tune, rebound tune, and boost valve setting). Since ASR5 is a single pivot, it relies heavily on the shock to resist pedal bob in the early stages of travel, and then the shock must open up towards the later part of travel to get the full range.

For example, If you look at the leverage ratio on this bike and the shock travel throughout the range of wheel travel, you'll see a couple things:

1) For the first inch of real wheel travel, you get a high amount of shock travel (the seatstay is directly in line with the axis of the shock)
2) Towards the 3rd/4th inch of travel, the shock is now at an angle, and each inch of wheel movement has a little LESS shock travel

The RP23 chosen for the ASR5 takes this all into consideration and has a boost valve setting that is position sensitive: I'm guessing tuned to resist motion in the first inch of travel and (relatively) lighter resistance in the later range of travel.

Avalanche might be able to tune your Float CTD, depending on exactly what year and model you have. Can you post a picture of the shock?

http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/Fox DHX/Fox Float RP23 SSD Mods.htm

http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/Fox DHX/Fox Float Evolution and Performance SSD HSB Mods.htm

worth noting: PUSH no longer tunes rear shocks other than the 11-6 (their own shock which they manufacture).

 

[Montana rider]

Avalanche might be able to tune your Float CTD, depending on exactly what year and model you have. Can you post a picture of the shock?

http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/Fox DHX/Fox Float RP23 SSD Mods.htm

http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/Fox DHX/Fox Float Evolution and Performance SSD HSB Mods.htm

worth noting: PUSH no longer tunes rear shocks other than the 11-6 (their own shock which they manufacture).

Thanks for your knowledge and expertise, Avalanche looks like a decent option.

When I typed in the 4 digit code at Fox it says I have a:
2013 Factory Series FLOAT
2013, FLOAT-K F-S, CTD-Adj BV SV, Yeti, 575, 7.875, 2.000, VTF, RTM, 150, 16

 

[StiHacka]

Factory & stock shocks are typically shimmed for H/M/L baseline high speed compression and rebound, to match the leverage curve of various frames, no? I always thought there was a bit too much marketing saucery about "shock specifically tuned for a frame", heavily fueled by MTBRos.

 

[jonKranked]

View attachment 133532
Thanks for your knowledge and expertise, Avalanche looks like a decent option.

When I typed in the 4 digit code at Fox it says I have a:
2013 Factory Series FLOAT
2013, FLOAT-K F-S, CTD-Adj BV SV, Yeti, 575, 7.875, 2.000, VTF, RTM, 150, 16

I have an avalanche cartridge in my 40. and know plenty of people on Avy tuned suspension. highly recommend.

the service you want would be the first of the 2 links i posted based on the model you have (its also the less expensive of the 2).

shoot craig and email, he's very responsive. the more you can describe what you like and don't like about the suspension performance, the better he'll be able to tune the shock for you. it'll come back feeling like a brand new shock.

 

[scrublover]

How long a steer tube needed on the fork?

26" 2015 Lyrik @ 170mm (easy to drop to 140) with Charger damper upgrade, 20mm axle.

But... a supah! short (just over 6") steerer.

My dumb ass cut it way too short for decent resale at this point.

 

[Montana rider]

How long a steer tube needed on the fork?

26" 2015 Lyrik @ 170mm (easy to drop to 140) with Charger damper upgrade, 20mm axle.

Opted to Avalanche the rear and found this for the front -- it seems like overkill for my riding "style" but checked all the specs out of the box, is new / and since 26" = unridabru it's on sale for a paltry $300...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RockShox-Revelation-RCT3-26-140mm-Solo-Air-Tapered-QR15-Offset-40-Black-/273759727937

I feel like I should send you a loaf of bread anyways, your food pron looks so damn tasty