[dexterq20]

I know there are 8 million threads regarding DeeMax wheels, but here's another one.

I just ordered my Gemini DH frame, and I can't decide what I should do about wheels. Do I use the included Cannondale hub and build up some Mavic EX729s and run NoTubes? Or should I save the time and effort of building wheels and just buy a set of DeeMax (with the 12mm rear axle conversion)? I'm about 200 pounds, but I'm not too hard on my wheels. Not a super smooth rider, but not super rough either. I'll be spending a lot of time at Northstar this summer on the wheels, so that's also something to consider. I've heard a lot of mixed reviews of the DeeMax wheels, so I wanted to hear some more opinions.

 

[p-spec]

My frend has a pair.He's been saying they flex allot cause of the number of spokes.I honnestly think thats b.s cause for a couple weeks now he has been talking about king hubs.....lol

Btw hes like 140 pounds so if he trully says they flex.Iw oud say got hand built.

Put it this way how much woud you get the dee max ust wheelset.

And now how much woud you get a pair of 729's converted to stans tubless with a nice set of hubs you preference.Witch oever comes cheaper get it.

 

[mcA896]

dude i can honestly say the stiffest wheels i have ridden are my azonic outlaw wheelset. WestCoastHucker can vouch for this. and, if i remember correectly ther only half the price of deemax's at $269. i love em. also, they have a 12mm conversion incl.

 

[Zark]

Ben, pass on the Dee Max wheels and go with hand built. Straight pull spokes are hassle should you ever break one. Not exactly a widely stocked spoke. Do you want to be out of action for weeks waiting for what should already be on stock at a shop? I don't think so.

For an ease of maintenance and also for a higher spoke count a hand built wheel will be better. Not to mention Deemax's are built up on a rim known not to hold up, expecially at Gnar*. Just ask Acadian.

 

[p-spec]

Noy just that they are very expensive......and can built a way sweeter wheel for less.

 

[Repack]

I would use the 729. Mavic seems to still have some kinks that they need to iron out with the Dee Max. Every one I have seen ends up dented. And, they are 28 hole rims. If you bust a rim at the mountain, you will likely be SOL if you need to rebuild in a hurry.

 

[Cave Dweller]

As far as im aware you can't get the deemax rims with a 12mm thru axel.

Also, the gemini DH frame (which is what im assuming you have) has a floater on the side that takes up 15mm, so even though you use a 135mm hub the spacing is 150mm and the rear wheel needs to be DISHED. I don't even know if this can be done with deemax wheels.

Just get some hadley, king or hugi free ride hubs with mavic 521 rims for a nice light setup.

 

[SuspectDevice]

Yeah, Deemax isn't available in through axle, or 150mm. You really can't beat the D/EX/5/7/21 well built with some nice 2.0/1.8 and good hub

 

[springfish]

My DeeMax's have been great so far. I also run a through axel in the front. 20mm.

 

[Spunger]

I agree, go the handbuilt route, not the deemax route. SB trails will eat the rims alive, the ones on the newer Deemax's.

Get some good hubs, good spokes, good rims, and have them built. Someone at Bob's has to build some good wheels. If not it'd be a good learning experience.

Good 20mm front hubs that don't break the bank are the Marzocchi 20mm (like $70 I think), Hope, Hadley etc.... I have Marz 20mm hubs on both bikes and they seem to be solid hubs. 32h only though...

Rear's you have a lot of options. The Gemini uses a 12mm TA axle. I *think* that it is not your standard hub. Spacing might be funny along with the axle system used. I know it's oval I think. In any way if they give you the hub just use it. Saves you some $$$ on having to buy another piece to get the bike going.

Spokes are up to you, same as 32h or 36h. I wanna say all my wheels are built off of DT Swiss 2.0 stright pull spokes.

Rims....rims...rims...lots of choices. Can't go wrong with the Mavic D321's (or their new EX name). The D521's (EX728's) are good if you're lighter/smoother. I'd choose them for a lighter weight setup then the D321's. D321's seem to be the lucky rim though. They are really solid. Plus No-tubes works in them very easily. I have Mavic's on the freeride bike and Arrow DHX rims on the DH bike. DHX are probably some of the heaviest duty rims out, they will take the beating. Just they add a little more weight to everything but that's ok, I'd rather have a wheel that lasts then replace it every 3-6 months.

Look around though. It shouldn't cost you that much to get wheels going. You save atleast a min. of $200 just from already having the rear hub!. Use that to your advantage on picking out rims/spokes/front hub.

Good luck!

 

[Repack]

Be careful with the 521. It has single eyelets. Mavic will not warranty them if they crack. In my experience, you can expect to get 1 year plus of heavy DHing out of a 521 begore the eyelets start to crack. However, the 321's I have now have been going strong for 3 years. And I aint no waif!

 

[Li'l Dave]

Hand Built all the way. The Deemax wheels are sick race wheels, but are to expensive to be fixing all the time on the SB trails. I've never been to Northstar, but from what I've heard, its about as tech as it can get. Another easy way to go is to get a set of Singletrack rims and some nice hubs, that's what I got.

 

[p-spec]

Repack

me to every set i have seen are dented up.

I dont get it.Are they made of softer metal or wat ?

 

[Repack]

Repack

me to every set i have seen are dented up.

I dont get it.Are they made of softer metal or wat ?

Mavic soft? Its the other way around. Mavic uses a mucg harder aluminum than any other company I have dealt with. I think that the biggest problem facing rims is peoples overobsession with low PSI. Just because you can run a tire at 20psi doesn't mean that you should. I believe that even the high-volume Michelin 2.8's have a min rating of 28psi. Too many people run their pressure too low. They think thet just because they are not flatting that everything is fine. I found out after awhile that this is not the case. Too low and tires try to role off the rim. My rule id thubm has become that I run my tires just soft enough to deform enough to eject as much mud as possible.

Just reread something. Are you asking if the 521 is soft? They are all the same aluminum. The biggest difference (even more so than the shape) has to do with the eyelets. Both rims are double walled. All good rims are. 321 eyelets grab both walls. They distribute the force over a large area. 521's only have 1 eyelet around where the nipple seats in the inner wall. 321 eyelets, in addition to covering 2 walls, are also ~2x the surface area of the 521 eyelet, so the force is much more distributed on a 321.

The thing that bugs me the most is that Mavic Open Pro road rims have double eyelets but the 521 still does not.

I can take a picture of a 521 and a 321 if you want to see what I mean. I have a collection of rim cross-sections that I saves up while wrenching so that I could show customers the difference in construction methods.

 

[Dartman]

Handbuilt with Mavic D321's. You can get them for $50 bucks apiece so you can carry spares with you.

Better yet, learn to build your own. It's not hard and can be a very useful skill to get beer!!! Also to do a quick rim swap in a hotel room to save the weekend riding.

MIke

 

[Pau11y]

Handbuilt with Mavic D321's. You can get them for $50 bucks apiece so you can carry spares with you.

Better yet, learn to build your own. It's not hard and can be a very useful skill to get beer!!! Also to do a quick rim swap in a hotel room to save the weekend riding.

MIke

Ditto on this, except build it 4x 36 h w/ brass and straight spokes for a more bomb proof rear wheel. 32 h 3x w/ brass straight spokes up front. If you lean heavily on the front wheel (I had to do that w/ my Karp. Army) & don't tend to pick it up on hits, go w/ 4x. Use 14g straight because just about every shop will have that in stock. Have the tech or yourself sharpie the spoke lenght on the rim so you can replace it quick at any bike shop. W/ 4x, you won't have too much truing to do even if you broke a spoke entirely. I'm big into minimal maintenance

 

[dexterq20]

Ditto on this, except build it 4x 36 h w/ brass and straight spokes for a more bomb proof rear wheel. 32 h 3x w/ brass straight spokes up front. If you lean heavily on the front wheel (I had to do that w/ my Karp. Army) & don't tend to pick it up on hits, go w/ 4x. Use 14g straight because just about every shop will have that in stock. Have the tech or yourself sharpie the spoke lenght on the rim so you can replace it quick at any bike shop. W/ 4x, you won't have too much truing to do even if you broke a spoke entirely. I'm big into minimal maintenance

You do realize that this thread is almost 6 months old, right?




Frikkin' n00b

 

[Kntr]

dude i can honestly say the stiffest wheels i have ridden are my azonic outlaw wheelset. WestCoastHucker can vouch for this. and, if i remember correectly ther only half the price of deemax's at $269. i love em. also, they have a 12mm conversion incl.

You have got to be joking. I had a set of 02 Dee Maxxes on my FLY. I sold them to build a King/321 wheelset. Well, my hubs have not come in so the bike shop let me run a set of the brand new Azonic Outlaws. They flex like crazy. My Dee Maxxes never hit the rear chainstays. The Azonics flex so much they rub on the chainstays. The Azonic outlaws also use STEAL rings in the front hub. The front hub is rusting inside and Ive only ridden them for about 2 months. The Azonic Outaws are alright at the price but I would never own a set. They are terrible

 

[Pau11y]

You do realize that this thread is almost 6 months old, right?




Frikkin' n00b

Nope, completely missed the date - I'm pretty blind like that. :

 

[OGRipper]

Northstar eats rims, pretty much regardless of how smooth you are you will get dents quickly. Go handbuilt. Much cheaper and easier to replace a blown rim.