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Hayes has acquired Reynolds Cycling

Electric_City

Torture wrench
Apr 14, 2007
2,045
781
There's 3 spoke manufacturers I buy from regularly (like every week) Sapim, DTSwiss & Wheelsmith.
Wheelsmith is the normal choice for low to mid range wheels which is the biggest chunk of the market for replacement spokes.
I've built wheels with Wheelsmith over DT cause DT has no DH spokes. I can't recall breaking a Wheelsmith spoke ever. Sapim is who I've used on my last two builds. Strong's on the DH bike, Leaders on the Spartan and the new hardtail. No broken spokes there either. DT though? Enough over the years. But spokes will break cause they're a fatigued item, despite brand.
 

Electric_City

Torture wrench
Apr 14, 2007
2,045
781
You mean like the DT Apline IIIs? They've had those forever. I used them back in the day.
Idk. Whenever I went on their website they have that scale to determine the strength and the discipline it's meant for. None of their scales that I saw ever went to the end (DH). I'll have to look again. Thanks.
 

Electric_City

Torture wrench
Apr 14, 2007
2,045
781
I just went to their website and I didn't see the scale anymore. But I'd probably run the Alpine before the 3's just cause of the 15g in the middle. I'm all for strength over replacing stuff. Lol!
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,914
10,512
AK
I just went to their website and I didn't see the scale anymore. But I'd probably run the Alpine before the 3's just cause of the 15g in the middle. I'm all for strength over replacing stuff. Lol!
The Alpine III would be a better spoke to use, butted spokes>straight gauge spokes. The Apline III was designed specifically for the stresses of tandem cycles and shortly thereafter (back in the 90s) they said it's also good for DH. That is my go-to for a super-strong spoke, assuming the spoke-holes support it at the hub. The lack of "give" in straight spokes IMO leads to more breakages.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,914
10,512
AK
Most wheebuilders I've ever run into swear by double butted for the elasticity and resistance to breaking, reporting more breakages with straight. I've used that for a long time now and had great results. I can't think of any good reason to use straight gauge except to save a bunch of money on something that isn't going to be used hard.
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,107
1,799
Northern California
I use straight gauge because they build a stiffer wheel that holds tension longer, not for cost. Even with butted spokes breakages were a rare occurrence for me.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,914
10,512
AK
I use straight gauge because they build a stiffer wheel that holds tension longer, not for cost. Even with butted spokes breakages were a rare occurrence for me.
The most recent wheel building theory I’ve seen is that the stiffness comes mainly from the rim, but even some of the recent Alu rims like Spank are decently stiff (instead of having to go to carbon).
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,508
In hell. Welcome!
I use straight gauge because they build a stiffer wheel that holds tension longer
Why is that? Limited wind-up during tensioning? I don't believe any of the spokes stretch during their lifetime.

I am a CX-Rays believer and would rather build a 36 spoke wheels with DB/aero spokes than 32/straight gauge ones.

Also, #spokemonkey.com
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,107
1,799
Northern California
Why is that? Limited wind-up during tensioning? I don't believe any of the spokes stretch during their lifetime.

I am a CX-Rays believer and would rather build a 36 spoke wheels with DB/aero spokes than 32/straight gauge ones.

Also, #spokemonkey.com
Wind-up is what I was taught back in my shop days.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,508
In hell. Welcome!
baloney. they still wind up, its just easier to detect (and correct) since you can visually see it.
You would have to be really dumb to let that happen. Plus, I use a DIY tool that holds the end of the blade in the correct position while tensioning so it does not have a slightest chance to get wound up.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
88,092
26,434
media blackout
You would have to be really dumb to let that happen. Plus, I use a DIY tool that holds the end of the blade in the correct position while tensioning so it does not have a slightest chance to get wound up.
you're right, it's extremely easy to prevent and there's no reason you should allow it to happen, but they absolutely are prone to wind up. congratulations on proving yourself wrong.
 

Electric_City

Torture wrench
Apr 14, 2007
2,045
781
The Alpine III would be a better spoke to use, butted spokes>straight gauge spokes. The Apline III was designed specifically for the stresses of tandem cycles and shortly thereafter (back in the 90s) they said it's also good for DH. That is my go-to for a super-strong spoke, assuming the spoke-holes support it at the hub. The lack of "give" in straight spokes IMO leads to more breakages.
Fwiw, the Alpine is also butted.

When I've broken spokes or buddies break them, it varies where the spoke breaks. But I've seen plenty of them break from the middle on down to the hub. Generally speaking, where the 15g is. I've rarely seen the head pop off though despite what straight spoke advocates tell us.