[quadricolour]

every time I remove a wheel from my bike, it seems my Hayes lose their settings. Once I get the wheel back on, the pads drag horribly, and I have to do the whole push the piston back, realign the caliper thing. Is this something I'm doing wrong? It's driving me nuts!

Thanks!

 

[speedbump]

Make sure nothing is pulling the lever when the wheel is out. If you're going to have the wheel out for awhile, get a travel spacer to place between the pads or just use a piece of corrugated cardboard doubled over on itself.

 

[sub6]

if you're using QR skewers, that's just part of the game, really. Because every time you put the wheel back on, you tighten it a different amount, which aligns the rotor differently to the caliper.

Some people do a very careful ritual where they count how many times they turn the nut, etc. so that it gets tightened the EXACT same amount every time they put the wheel on.

I use thru-axles, and a bike rack that doesn't require wheel removal. So it's not such a big deal for me...

 

[quadricolour]

Thanks people. I could easily avoid taking my wheel off if it weren't for these ****ing thorns... I guess I'll just have to live with it.

 

[Repack]

Sounds like an issue of lever squeeze. I've had NO issues with qr torque. Keep an old library card/hotel keycard/credit card/insurance card etc with your stuff, and when it happens again, slide the card in between the rotor and pad and squeeze the lever a few times. This will reset the pistons. When you take the card out and squeeze, the pistons should self adjust. Even hayes admits that the spacers their brakes come with are too narrow. I don't like business cards because they compress.

 

[math2014]

That tip with the credit card is probably the best MTB tip i ve heard in a long time, do you reckon it would work on my XT discs? I have the same issues. If it works you should be proud. Clever tip.

 

[Repack]

Originally posted by math2014
That tip with the credit card is probably the best MTB tip i ve heard in a long time, do you reckon it would work on my XT discs? I have the same issues. If it works you should be proud. Clever tip.

Thanks. A mechanic from SRAM actually showed it to me. It should work with any open system disc brake. On any self-adjusting system, the pistons move in as far as the lever will push them, but they will only retract a little. This is how they adjust to pad wear. All the card does is reset everything. For the first couple of squeezes after doing so, the lever will probobly hit the bar, then they will settle with good modulation/feel.

 

[D_D]

I mark the axel so it always goes in the dropout the sameway.
Never had a problem with my hopes after doing that.

No need to carry anything or do any counting.