[NS1]

I'm building up my new Chaparral Frame at the moment.
I've just tried to fit the BB, cranks & E13 DRS, & I cant fit the cranks without the LH non-drive side arm clashing with the chainstay yoke.
On Banshee's website they say use a 68/113 BB, but as i was fitting a DRS (got some advice off the forum) I got an FSA 118 BB to give the LH crank more room.
I fitted the DRS behind the BB shell & when i fitted the cranks the LH arm clashed with the frame.
I then fitted the BB without the DRS to see if that helped, but the crank arm still clashed with the frame.
I'm fitting Raceface North Shore cranks & thought it may be the shape of them, so I tried my Middleburn RS7's & had exactly the same problem with them.

Am I missing something here, as the BB i'm using has a longer axle than Banshee recommend, but my cranks still won't turn past the chainstay yoke???

Here's a pic of the problem & i'll post a couple more below :-

 

[NS1]

Close up pic of the problem

 

[NS1]

BB without the cranks

 

[Spunger]

It looks like from your pictures that the rear triangle and front triangle aren't aligned. Nothing looks like it lines up.

I dunno what the chances are of getting a brand new frame and having it misalligned but that sure enough looks like it.

Imagine if you took that pic of the bottom bracket/rear tire area. They should be in align with one another.

After seeing the pics and looking again (good pic taking BTW), it looks like you have an alignment issue. Those don't line up at all.

 

[llkoolkeg]

Go with a 73/118. I have a Chaparral with a DRS as well. The 68mm BB only works w/o a chainguide.

 

[llkoolkeg]

Originally posted by Spunger
It looks like from your pictures that the rear triangle and front triangle aren't aligned. Nothing looks like it lines up.

I dunno what the chances are of getting a brand new frame and having it misalligned but that sure enough looks like it.

Imagine if you took that pic of the bottom bracket/rear tire area. They should be in align with one another.

The chappy uses asymmetrical chainstays.

 

[NS1]

Originally posted by llkoolkeg
Go with a 73/118. I have a Chaparral with a DRS as well. The 68mm BB only works w/o a chainguide.

The pictures show it without the chainguide & it doesn't work like that.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

For sh*ts and giggles measure the BB shell on the frame, maybe its a 73mm shell.

 

[NS1]

Originally posted by Brian HCM#1
For sh*ts and giggles measure the BB shell on the frame, maybe its a 73mm shell.

First thing i did when it wouldn't work & it is a 68mm shell.

 

[zedro]

Originally posted by NS1
First thing i did when it wouldn't work & it is a 68mm shell.

well you should have a spacer in there shouldnt you?

 

[NS1]

Originally posted by zedro
well you should have a spacer in there shouldnt you?

No spacer as it's a 68mm only BB, not one that will fit 68 or 73.
So it should definately work if i'm not fitting the chainguide.

 

[llkoolkeg]

I have a Chaparral with a DRS and 73X118 BB. I could not get a 68mm to work because the chappy lacks ISCG tabs. You have to use a DH cup to mount the DRS and a 73mm BB.

 

[NS1]

Originally posted by llkoolkeg
I have a Chaparral with a DRS and 73X118 BB. I could not get a 68mm to work because the chappy lacks ISCG tabs. You have to use a DH cup to mount the DRS and a 73mm BB.

What cranks & BB are you running?

The BB i've got has a flanged cup, but it sounds like I'll need to get a 73mm BB if I run the DRS.
The 118/63 BB that i have should still work without the DRS though, & it doesn't.
Must be that the North Shore cranks are too tight to the frame where they meet the BB?

 

[llkoolkeg]

Originally posted by NS1
What cranks & BB are you running?

The BB i've got has a flanged cup, but it sounds like I'll need to get a 73mm BB if I run the DRS.
The 118/63 BB that i have should still work without the DRS though, & it doesn't.
Must be that the North Shore cranks are too tight to the frame where they meet the BB?

The left cranks are tough to fit. The FSA and Shimano stuff bolts right up but I had RaceFace...as apparently, so do you. RaceFace left cranks do not fit Banshee suspension bikes for poo. I wasn't about to afford new ones, though, so I broke out the Dremel and machined my Turbine LPs to fit my Chaparral and my NorthShores to fit my Scream. I do not recommend this, but haven't had any problems yet as a result.

 

[NS1]

I spoke to Pip at Banshee last night & he said that he had not heard of this problem & only ever fits 113 BB's to the Chaparral, & they've never had to fit a 73mm shell BB to one either.

He said that "because of the tolerances in the isis spline socket on some older race face cranks, some of them suck onto the spindle a little farther than others".
"To solve the problem, you can file a little bit of metal off the corner of the swing arm yoke".

That's all very well, but i've just spent out £1100 ($1950 USD) on a new frame, should I really have to file a chunk off it, especially as I bought a BB longer than Banshee recommend??

 

[llkoolkeg]

Did you mention the chainguide, though? That is the complicating factor. If you insist on using RaceFace cranks and a BB mounted chainguide(no ISCG mounts), you will need a 73mm BB as did I. You will also have to grind away the part of the left crankarm that hits the swingarm's left chainstay. That is the cheapest solution.

The better one is to just go with FSA or Shimano cranks. I haven't seen any compatibility issues with those.

 

[Tom DH]

I could be wrong but that sounds a bit crap excuse I could understand if it was a squared tapered BB but ISIS ones butt up ageist the crank so they could not be pushed on further. That’s why you can grease ISIS BB’s and not tapered ones.

If I were you I would just get a longer BB, as a spacer on the drive side would just make the problem worse.

 

[NS1]

Originally posted by llkoolkeg
Did you mention the chainguide, though? That is the complicating factor. If you insist on using RaceFace cranks and a BB mounted chainguide(no ISCG mounts), you will need a 73mm BB as did I. You will also have to grind away the part of the left crankarm that hits the swingarm's left chainstay. That is the cheapest solution.

The better one is to just go with FSA or Shimano cranks. I haven't seen any compatibility issues with those.

I know the chainguide adds to the problem by moving the axle back 2mm, but the pictures I posted are without the chainguide fitted & even then the cranks still hit the frame with a 118 BB & Banshee recommend a 113.

It looks like i'm going to have to spend on another new BB, 'cause I don't want to grind out my new frame & I don't want to have to buy new cranks either.
Even with the DRS fitted & a new 118/73 BB the cranks will be back in the position in the pics, so I may still have to take a bit off the swing arm for the crank to clear.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

I would go with a longer spindle before I go modifing a frame.

 

[llkoolkeg]

Originally posted by Brian HCM#1
I would go with a longer spindle before I go modifing a frame.

I ground the cranks. The problem is that they hit right on a swingarm weld, so you cannot remove any material there. Don't grind the frame!

 

[NS1]

I got it sorted now & my Chap is now fully built.
I ended up spending on another BB, I went for a 118mm Gigapipe DH, without the bb shell spacer & with the DRS fitted the crank just cleared the frame by about 1mm.
I took the bike out for it's first spin today, & i'm not disappointed.
It feels so solid & seems to pedal much better than my old Bullit, glad i went for the medium as it fits perfect. :love: