I just got an 02 Da Bomb Mindbomb frame with an 03 romic 8" rear shock. I am asking for advice on what parts to set my rig up with.
Help! Guidance Setting Up Dh/Fr Rig
- Thread starter rygel
- Start date
What type of riding do you want to do? Downhill (ski lift stuff) OR Freeriding (pedaling up and then bombing down the hills)?rygel said:
Then I could provide some suggestions.
I am probably going to be doing mostly freeriding but every now and then I get up to Mt. Snow for some ski lift runs. Any set-up advice would be much aprreciated.
Thanx
Thanx
If you want to go low budget, here are some decent parts that you might want to check out:
Low budget parts (also light for FR)
Forks:
Marzocchi Super Jr T, Boxxer Race/Team, or Manitou Slider Plus 7"
Brakes: Recommend 200 mm+ rotors
Hayes Comps (buy @ supergo.com, swap out with 8" rotors)
Cranks:
LX/XT will do fine
Drivetrain:
XT rear, Deore front, with XT pods
Good parts (more $$)
Forks (also lightweight)
Marzocchi 888 R (DON'T GET RT!), Marz. Super T Pro, Boxxer Race/Team with MOJO or Blackbox upgrade, Manitou Dorado
Brakes: Recommend 200 mm+ rotors
Avid Juicy (hard to get, tho), Hayes Mag (get the mags only) or Purples (purples are extremely rare and harder to get than Avids!!!), Shimano XT discs.
Cranks:
Raceface Northshores, XTR cranks, plenty of choices! Stay away from carbon fiber stuff!
Drivetrain:
XTR (full on) with XT front (it is a waste of $ to get XTR front)
I saved the wheels for last. Don't go cheap with the wheels because you will have problems if you buy cheap wheels. Buy the rims and hubs separate and have it hand-built by a respectible bike mechanic. Be sure that he has a background in DHing or FR before you have them built. You will have better built wheels!
Here are some recommended rims & hubs. Be sure to get 14 g spokes (heavy duty!) with brass nipples (alloy nipples will strip out - personal experience!). Your mechanic should know. If he doesn't, try someone else b/c chances are that he doesn't know what he is doing.
Rims: Mavic D521s, Mavic EX729s, Sun double wides
Hubs: XT Discs (low budget) with 20 mm front (Hayes or Marzocchi will do fine)
More $$ = Chris King ISO Disc (I have them and they are great!). Stay away from Hope hubs since I've had a history of problems with them and I am a light rider (150 lbs).
The rest is a matter of your choice & taste (seat, seatpost, stem, handlebar).
Good luck!
C ya on DH forums.
CAbiker
Low budget parts (also light for FR)
Forks:
Marzocchi Super Jr T, Boxxer Race/Team, or Manitou Slider Plus 7"
Brakes: Recommend 200 mm+ rotors
Hayes Comps (buy @ supergo.com, swap out with 8" rotors)
Cranks:
LX/XT will do fine
Drivetrain:
XT rear, Deore front, with XT pods
Good parts (more $$)
Forks (also lightweight)
Marzocchi 888 R (DON'T GET RT!), Marz. Super T Pro, Boxxer Race/Team with MOJO or Blackbox upgrade, Manitou Dorado
Brakes: Recommend 200 mm+ rotors
Avid Juicy (hard to get, tho), Hayes Mag (get the mags only) or Purples (purples are extremely rare and harder to get than Avids!!!), Shimano XT discs.
Cranks:
Raceface Northshores, XTR cranks, plenty of choices! Stay away from carbon fiber stuff!
Drivetrain:
XTR (full on) with XT front (it is a waste of $ to get XTR front)
I saved the wheels for last. Don't go cheap with the wheels because you will have problems if you buy cheap wheels. Buy the rims and hubs separate and have it hand-built by a respectible bike mechanic. Be sure that he has a background in DHing or FR before you have them built. You will have better built wheels!
Here are some recommended rims & hubs. Be sure to get 14 g spokes (heavy duty!) with brass nipples (alloy nipples will strip out - personal experience!). Your mechanic should know. If he doesn't, try someone else b/c chances are that he doesn't know what he is doing.
Rims: Mavic D521s, Mavic EX729s, Sun double wides
Hubs: XT Discs (low budget) with 20 mm front (Hayes or Marzocchi will do fine)
More $$ = Chris King ISO Disc (I have them and they are great!). Stay away from Hope hubs since I've had a history of problems with them and I am a light rider (150 lbs).
The rest is a matter of your choice & taste (seat, seatpost, stem, handlebar).
Good luck!
C ya on DH forums.
CAbiker
Look into a dual ring chain guide like
Evil/E13 DRS (dual ring system)
MRP LRP (long range patrol)
I would opt for them first or if not them:
Blackspire Duelie (I think that is how they spell it)
There are probably others but I would opt for them in that order. They allow you to run a middle a small ring so you can pedal that beast up the hills and keep it on when you go down.
For a inexpensive build go for the JrT or Boxxer Race used in good condition
Wheels like said above but you might be able to save a couple $100 getting a set and paying a shop to tension them....if they are cool they will do it...but pay full price cuase that last step is where the final quality come in.
If you can get stuff on close out mail order or online.....DH bars for $19 stemm for $15 etc no reason to pay full retail for High dollar stuff....if you are loooking to do this for low $$$ than go mailorder when you can. Also check out the classifieds for deals they are readily found.
I guess we should mention that buying a frame and building it is the MOST expensive way to go about it.
Many times if the frame was free it will cost you more.
Evil/E13 DRS (dual ring system)
MRP LRP (long range patrol)
I would opt for them first or if not them:
Blackspire Duelie (I think that is how they spell it)
There are probably others but I would opt for them in that order. They allow you to run a middle a small ring so you can pedal that beast up the hills and keep it on when you go down.
For a inexpensive build go for the JrT or Boxxer Race used in good condition
Wheels like said above but you might be able to save a couple $100 getting a set and paying a shop to tension them....if they are cool they will do it...but pay full price cuase that last step is where the final quality come in.
If you can get stuff on close out mail order or online.....DH bars for $19 stemm for $15 etc no reason to pay full retail for High dollar stuff....if you are loooking to do this for low $$$ than go mailorder when you can. Also check out the classifieds for deals they are readily found.
I guess we should mention that buying a frame and building it is the MOST expensive way to go about it.
Many times if the frame was free it will cost you more.
Hey, I just got an Iron Horse SGS DH PRO. I found out how to adjust my rear shock, could you or anyone tell me how to set up my front shock? It is a Boxxer race. I weigh 180 and I am 5'10" I ride mostly downhill but I am not too crazy, I am just figuring out how to ride my FS, but the front shock is now bottoming out now due to the fact that I am finally getting some air!cali4niabiker said:
Any help would be appreciated...
A couple of things:Bobby Peru said:
(1) Get a higher spring rating (FIRM [recommended] or EXTRA FIRM springs), see how that feels.
(2) If the Firm or X-Firm springs don't help, use 10 wt fork oil (Golden Spectra, Maxima). You can pick up the fork oil at a MTX shop.
Good luck!
Well I am 300lbs on a Boxxer Race. I am running stock oil wieght and The firmest springs they offer (had them in my old 2000 boxxer also) I bottom out but not supper hard...I konw I use all my travel.
At your wieght I don't think you are to far off the right spring rate. Maybe try (1) firmer spring and (1) stock spring and see if that is better....I fear if you go full firm you will hate the way the fork works as it will be sprung to stiff. I would hesitate to up the wieght of the oil as the performance can drop pretty fast.
1st thing I would do is find out what spings you have stock. See what the next firmest spring is and see if you can borrow one (the local DH shop has Boxxer springs (used) in mass for swaps/experimenting)
Change the oil in your fork with stock weight oil and height.
See if the changes were better than before.
At your wieght I don't think you are to far off the right spring rate. Maybe try (1) firmer spring and (1) stock spring and see if that is better....I fear if you go full firm you will hate the way the fork works as it will be sprung to stiff. I would hesitate to up the wieght of the oil as the performance can drop pretty fast.
1st thing I would do is find out what spings you have stock. See what the next firmest spring is and see if you can borrow one (the local DH shop has Boxxer springs (used) in mass for swaps/experimenting)
Change the oil in your fork with stock weight oil and height.
See if the changes were better than before.
Thanx you guys! That's a big help...I guess I should go to my LBS and see about these "springs"... I didn't even know that they could be swapped out...is it very hard to do? How much are the springs? Once again....thanx for the info!
To swap:Bobby Peru said:
Loosen the to crown bolts that pinch the for tubes and then with a socket or cresent wrench remove the top cap. Be carefull as there might be some preload on the cap....keep your free hand around the cap so it doesn't pop out or mess the threads up.
Next there is more than likely plastic spacers (1) big one and possibly other thin spacers for preload. Slightly compress the fork and remove the spacers. Below that is the spring. That is all there is to it.
Find out how much air there should be before you get to the oil (coming from the top) when the fork is fully compressed. I would change the oil and check the level myself. Since you are in there.....
My local shop has springs that you can experiment with....your shop might not have them or might not be as cool about it. I have no idea how much the springs cost it has been a few years since I had to buy new ones.
Good luck
It's all about the Hadley 12mm hub, triple butt spokes and the iso up front. I've had good luck with Mavic's 321 which are the same thing as the new 729. You can still find em cheap. Oh ya and have them built at your local shop!
Pick a winner with cranks. I've used Profiles on both of my bikes. Heavy but bomber.
XT disc brakes seem to be the way to go these days. Cheap and excellent modulation from what I hear. I'd run M4's.
As far as the fork goes. Don't waste time with a Jr. T when you can get the Super T (2003) for dirt cheap. The Boxxer is more of a DH fork, not a big hit freeride fork. Don't get me wrong though. PS: King Headset.
Pick a winner with cranks. I've used Profiles on both of my bikes. Heavy but bomber.
XT disc brakes seem to be the way to go these days. Cheap and excellent modulation from what I hear. I'd run M4's.
As far as the fork goes. Don't waste time with a Jr. T when you can get the Super T (2003) for dirt cheap. The Boxxer is more of a DH fork, not a big hit freeride fork. Don't get me wrong though. PS: King Headset.
ok
fork- manitue sherman breakout plus
bars and stem-race face diablos
king headset
cranks-truvativ husfeller
pedels-mallet C
post-anything thats tellascopic
shifters-sram X9 trigger
FD-xt
RD-sram X0
brakes- hope M4 monos
chain guide-evil DRS
wheels-mavix x321 on sun wringle hubs or WTB dual duty FR hubs and rims
fork- manitue sherman breakout plus
bars and stem-race face diablos
king headset
cranks-truvativ husfeller
pedels-mallet C
post-anything thats tellascopic
shifters-sram X9 trigger
FD-xt
RD-sram X0
brakes- hope M4 monos
chain guide-evil DRS
wheels-mavix x321 on sun wringle hubs or WTB dual duty FR hubs and rims