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Home-made headset removers...

VTinCT

Flexmaster Flexy Flex
Sep 24, 2001
355
0
Lost in the woods...
I recently rigged up a homeade headset press, and now I am trying to come up with a viable remover. I've considered a pressure treated wooden dowel with the end dipped in silicone, but I figure it would round out too quick. I've also thought about just cutting a 1" length of pipe and welding on a top piece for striking surface. What has any one else done, besides the murderous screwdriver (I actually witnessed this in a shop...oh man did I cringe at every strike!!)

Just a side note, I have removed them in the past with an old metal rod that seems to have walked away, this is just for a winter project...and so I don't end up buying any more tools!!:D
 
Jan 27, 2002
7
0
San Antonio, TX
I kinda hate to admit this in a public forum, but my favorite headset removal tool is a long socket wrench extension. I have used it on several occasions and have YET to mung up a headset. Of course it takes a while and you have to be CAREFULL... working around the perimeter to make sure that you don't jam up the cup.

Two steps from the stoneage, but heh, it works!

Of course, if my King headset ever needs to come out..... I'll take it to the LBS:wink:
 

VTinCT

Flexmaster Flexy Flex
Sep 24, 2001
355
0
Lost in the woods...
Yeah dude, thats pretty similar to what I had, (and what has disapeared). I saw the Park tool, and figured I could concoct some sort of copy, or close aproximation. Thanks tho. :thumb:
 

Old_Dude

Monkey
I was thinking of PVC tube with at least 2 slits in it a few inches long. Put the PVC pipe in the head tube, then insert wedges into the slots which would flare out the PVC pipe and then hammer down. Easier said than done - I never continued figuring out what the wedges would be or how to pull or push them up into the PVC to get the "flare" shaped end.

Maybe slicing the PVC, and putting a ball into the end which would allow the end pieces to flare out? The ball would have to be just the right size.

Maybe someone can take this idea and make it work - hope so.
 

VTinCT

Flexmaster Flexy Flex
Sep 24, 2001
355
0
Lost in the woods...
There you go! Thats an idea...albeit a tough one. Maybe a raquet ball? I don't know what their diameter is tho. If you were to feed the PVC tube through from the top (slits pointing down) so the ends protruded, then inserted the ball to flare the ends, you could probably keep the ball in place while you pull the PVC back up through the headtube until it was in a position to strike down on and pop out the cup.:thumb:
Cool idea old_dude.
 

VTinCT

Flexmaster Flexy Flex
Sep 24, 2001
355
0
Lost in the woods...
Nice diagrams man! I'm feeling all sorts of low class with no visuals. Thats a sweet idea, but riddle me this: how would you keep the "spreader" fixed in? I'd fully try this out for sh*ts and giggles.

As to your other issue, i supose I would need a life too, since I seem to be so fully engrossed in this as well:D Ah well...
 

Old_Dude

Monkey
how would you keep the "spreader" fixed in?
Geez, I dunno - isn't that why you get paid more than I do?

If the force of the wedge (cone) was such that it stuck up in there, then maybe you could hold it up with one hand while you tapped the PVC headset press with a wodden/rubber mallet with the other hand.

?

A good workstand might be really important - unless you're part octopus, or something.
 

Brian HCM#1

MMMMMMMMM BEER!!!!!!!!!!
Sep 7, 2001
32,119
378
Bay Area, California
Originally posted by Old_Dude
I think I really need a life . . .
Just use the same idea, but use 1" copper pipe with a 1" copper cap at the end. Cut the other end and flare it out where they are just snug when sliding it through the headset cup. It should lock into place then smack away with a hammer. The Park removers are very similar but made of steel.
 

riderx

Monkey
Aug 14, 2001
704
0
Fredrock
I have a homemade headset press, but for the remover it's worth it to just buy one. $14.40 for the tool right here.

Old Dude's design is right, but PVC isn't going to hold up. Copper will probably work for a bit, but over the long term the flared ends probably won't hold up.
 

VTinCT

Flexmaster Flexy Flex
Sep 24, 2001
355
0
Lost in the woods...
:think: I know that it would be easier to just buy the Park remover, but its more fun sometimes to try to come up with stuff on your own...or with the help of a few monkeys!:wink: Like I said, this is just a little project, I don't need it any time soon...although I probably just jinxed myself! Thanks for all the input!
 

KonaDude

Monkey
Sep 7, 2001
207
0
Victoria, BC, Canada.
Take an old seatpost (one without the head preferably), use a hacksaw and cut the 4 slots. Then bend the four quarters of the seatpost out. Now insert into the head tube 'till it clicks (the four quarters expand against the head tube), and start hammering. Works perfect, and if you use an old aluminum seatpost you reduce the risk of any damage to your headset.