[Rik]

I had a semi-argument with the other guy I work with, about chain wear, casettes, and changing it all.

My idea is, when the park tool shows .75, I'd buy a brand new chain and thow it on, and I usually get 2 or 3 chains out of a cassette...

His line of thought was, "bugger it", just let the chain wear until it's completely stretched, and wait until the cassette wears out, and change both at once.
I said "but then you get really sloppy shifting at the end of its life", and he just shrugged and didn't really care about that.

So what I'd like to know is, how often do you change your chain? How many chains do you use per cassette, and what measurement on the park tool do you consider too worn?
TIA!

 

[mrbigisbudgood]

I gotta agree with your friend.

At the first sign of sloppy shifting/popping, I replace both. Chances are that when you replace a chain only, you might end up with sloppy shifting because the chain and cassette wear together. As the chain stretches, the cassette wears accordingly. When you introduce a new chain, it has less spacing between each pin while your cassette is wore to work with the streched chain, which can cause missed shifts and even popping (my friend went over the bars because of this just last week) when you try to put some real power to the cranks.

 

[Rik]

You're definately correct with the fact the chain and cassette wear together
but, at the same time, if you're pedantic about chain wear (I check mine fortnightly), you can replace chains regularly enough to not have the cassette wear too much.

My gripe is that to replace the chain and cassette at the same time is such a big expence in one go that to do it regularly costs too much. But that's from me, a cheap unemployed bastard

 

[Echo]

I run the chain and cassette until they don't work anymore, then replace both. I don't think it really makes much difference which way you handle it though, my way is just easier

 

[Phreaddy]

Originally posted by mrbigisbudgood
Chances are that when you replace a chain only, you might end up with sloppy shifting because the chain and cassette wear together. As the chain stretches, the cassette wears accordingly. When you introduce a new chain, it has less spacing between each pin while your cassette is wore to work with the streched chain, which can cause missed shifts and even popping (my friend went over the bars because of this just last week) when you try to put some real power to the cranks.

Actually, the whole point of having a chain checker and replacing the chain BEFORE it's worn out, is to prevent what you're describing. You can indeed prolong the life of the cassette, and thus keep a relatively old cassette happy with a new chain. A lot of the cassette's wear comes from being subjected to the worn, stretched chain. I have a Rohloff chain checker, and replace when it's about halfway worn out. It's especially important for me because I have two sets of wheels (and thus two cogsets) that I switch around, depending on whether I'm riding the road or in the woods. Since I unfortunately ride on road far more than off, the cassettes would otherwise wear out at differing rates.

 

[Serial Midget]

My road bike chain gets changed at the first sign of poor shifting, for my Campy Chorus this is 1500 miles or so - about twice a year.

My mountain bikes get new srams pc99s at the beginning of each season - worn or not. I am not going to be the guy holding the crew up while I splice a chain. The benefit to this is I have never needed to relace a cassette. Chorus 10 on the road bikes and plain old XT on the mountain bikes. I have a 1984 Superbe Pro 6 speed freewheel that has over 20,000 miles on it - it is worn but responds quite well to a new chain.

 

[spincrazy]

I generally replace my chain about 4 times a year and generally get 2 full seasons out of a cassette.

 

[JMAC]

I usally change my chain every month or 2.

 

[Will_Jekyll]

I change my chain once a year then as needed which is if it breaks or I think it's about to break. I don't replace cassets untill they out right break because I'm not that concerned with shifting performance as long as it finds the gear I'm trying to put it in it's all good.

 

[KrusteeButt]

Well, being that I've done a bunch of upgrading this year, I can't really say. Prior to this season I didn't know enough about this stuff.
I'd think you could get a lot more life out of your cassette if you change your chain more often.
I checked my chain after 3 months and it was still holding between .25 and .5.
I'd guess I'll replace the chain before next season...but I'd hope I can get that cassette to last through all of next year...I hope.

 

[BMXman]

Originally posted by spincrazy
I generally replace my chain about 4 times a year and generally get 2 full seasons out of a cassette.

ditto...I have to because of the terrible chainlines of most dh bikes....nothing sucks worst then letting your chain go to long and then having it snap on you when you're riding....ahh the pain.....D

 

[oldfart]

4 or 5 chains a year and the drivetrain usually lasts 8 to 10 months before it all needs to go. Definitly change the chain early and you will save the cassette and rings a little longer. The park chain checker is not the best tool because the calibration isn't that accurate. On mine I use .5 as the replace the chain mark.

I must add that since I started using prolink chain lube, my chains are lasting a lot longer. maybe twice the life so far.

 

[Shmoe]

Chain every 2 months. Cog Once a year. Cables and Housing, almost weekly.