Or without the correct tools. I bought some KMC master links for my dura ace/xtr chain thinking they would be nice and easy like my old 10s stuff, but they are the same difficulty. BTW this is my first 11s setup so please excuse my ignorance. Any tips/trick? Or should I just buy the shimano pliers. I got a new stumpy and was collecting trail tools to cram in the weed void, I got the cool wolftooth chain pliers but they are useless for engaging the link (not enough leverage). Ive taken this link out like 3 times and even still, partially engaging it and stamping on the pedals won't get it to go.
How to connect 11s master link on the trail
- Thread starter csermonet
- Start date
I carry the Park tool...
Make sure the plates are sitting correctly on the pins then put the bike in top gear and pedal.
If that fails buy a Connex Link- http://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-link.html
If that fails buy a Connex Link- http://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-link.html
I've never had issues with 11sp links. Are you sure you aren't using a 11sp master link with a 10sp chain?
The Connex links worked great for me (in past), but my frequented online shops stopped carying them.
Looks like an 11spd version exists but adds a trillion dollar premium:
https://www.bike24.com/p27773.html
They're awesome because they don't click together like the other brands (so you don't need a tool to get it apart!) and the tortured path means it's pretty hard to have it fall off / fail during riding. It's not impossible in my experience, but I still rate them. I found SRAM / KMC (and similar) relied on the clicking to stay on so after using them a few times they fall off, whereas the tortured path doesn't rely on friction. Also in my book if a quick link needs a tool, it's not a quick link.
For a cheaper option, the "Clarks" brand ones CRC work similarly and are tool-free, the correct ones are shaped like a jellybean. KMC makes a version like this also but they are hard to find. Not quite as good as the Connex for staying on, but still tool-free. If you use a clutch mech I think the Clarks are still a great option.
Looks like an 11spd version exists but adds a trillion dollar premium:
https://www.bike24.com/p27773.html
They're awesome because they don't click together like the other brands (so you don't need a tool to get it apart!) and the tortured path means it's pretty hard to have it fall off / fail during riding. It's not impossible in my experience, but I still rate them. I found SRAM / KMC (and similar) relied on the clicking to stay on so after using them a few times they fall off, whereas the tortured path doesn't rely on friction. Also in my book if a quick link needs a tool, it's not a quick link.
For a cheaper option, the "Clarks" brand ones CRC work similarly and are tool-free, the correct ones are shaped like a jellybean. KMC makes a version like this also but they are hard to find. Not quite as good as the Connex for staying on, but still tool-free. If you use a clutch mech I think the Clarks are still a great option.
The KMC are not designed to be reused the way almost all others are reusable. They also aren't designed to be disassembled trailside. You need a special tool. I know because I bought one, not realizing this was the case.
I was able to remove it with pliers and curse words for a new build, and getting it back on was super easy- just install and pedal. Not exactly sure which step you are having difficulty with, but getting it off was a PITA and the next time around, I'm getting a different link.
I was able to remove it with pliers and curse words for a new build, and getting it back on was super easy- just install and pedal. Not exactly sure which step you are having difficulty with, but getting it off was a PITA and the next time around, I'm getting a different link.
I reused KMCs several times after muddy rides. The key to disassemble them without losing your mind or a finger is using your chainring as a bench:
Or if you carry a spare shifter cable, just use it:
On the trail if peddling doesn't work, and you have laces in your shoes...
1. untie shoe.
2. Put a lace in the links on both sides of the master link.
3. Pull through and double over the lace and wrap around fingers so they won't slip.
4. Pull with opposing force.
Zips can work but will hurt.
1. untie shoe.
2. Put a lace in the links on both sides of the master link.
3. Pull through and double over the lace and wrap around fingers so they won't slip.
4. Pull with opposing force.
Zips can work but will hurt.
I went the monacle route, and bring one of these. It also has a tire lever, and holds two spare links.
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/wolf-tooth-components-combo-masterlink-pliers-black?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2cqI2Mrv2wIVTdbACh0D6gCQEAQYASABEgKSHvD_BwE
45 grams, I think?
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/wolf-tooth-components-combo-masterlink-pliers-black?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2cqI2Mrv2wIVTdbACh0D6gCQEAQYASABEgKSHvD_BwE
45 grams, I think?
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I got that too! It's super tits.
I'm an idiot, I had the chain on the under side.
Wow thanks for all the replies and people not being complete jerks. Actually alot of useful information in here, hopefully some others can come here and get some info. Should be easily searchable with my title.
Those Connex links look pretty neat, maybe next chain i'll give one a try.
I just bought an i9 Matchstix axle. Between that and my SWAT tool that came on my bottle cage, I should be pretty set. And won't have to worry about not being prepared, everything will be attached to my bike by default. On longer rides I can through some bigger, easier to use tools in my pack.