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Hubs/Wheels

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,451
5,066
My cassette lockring was a little loose, but I can't fathom how that would impact a ratchet system....
Why was it loose? Did you not tighten it on or did it somehow back out?

How many turns our are we talking? If we're talking a turn or two, that would be enough to cause problems on a dt hub since it fits together with pressure. Leaving it loose is effectively giving wiggle room tangentially.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,898
21,422
Canaderp
Why was it loose? Did you not tighten it on or did it somehow back out?

How many turns our are we talking? If we're talking a turn or two, that would be enough to cause problems on a dt hub since it fits together with pressure. Leaving it loose is effectively giving wiggle room tangentially.
If the lock ring was loose, wouldn't that just mean his cassette could have been out of alignment and his shifting would have been garbage? I don't think a loose cassette would impact how the hub functions - that more of the function of the end caps, no? As long as the end caps are in there correctly and the axle is tight, holding the hub together, the cassette lock ring shouldn't matter. Unless I'm an idiot. :D



tldr; you should be able to mount the hub into the frame without a cassette or lockring and it'd still function the same.
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,663
7,021
I dunno. Doesn’t look like too much grease to me. Shredding teeth on one side and not all around suggests misalignment like so: /| ... I’d check the grease and make sure it’s assembled correctly... but have a very good look at your axle/frame interface. I’d take the air out of your shock and cycle everything. The fact that this is the 4th hub on the bike and this one had problems within hours suggests something is awry.
Too much grease or too high a viscosity causes the tips to rip off, they are self energized(not sure of the correct term) but there is a massive surface area that you are trying to squeeze the grease out of compared to a normal pawl setup.

I have had an axle that bottomed out before it clamped so it felt tight but moved under load, also had a Maxle that wouldn't hold tension, cam seemed to be too small and there was no real over centre action going on.
I still don't like Maxles, may as well just use a bolt with a bit of compressible plastic under the head to reduce your clamping tension......... 12X1.0 bolt FTW!
 

Inclag

Turbo Monkey
Sep 9, 2001
2,775
459
MA
Why was it loose? Did you not tighten it on or did it somehow back out?

How many turns our are we talking? If we're talking a turn or two, that would be enough to cause problems on a dt hub since it fits together with pressure. Leaving it loose is effectively giving wiggle room tangentially.
I have an SLX 11 speed cassette so many of the cogs are loose. I'd say I probably could have cranked the lock ring down another 3/4 turn as I noticed a little bit of rattle in certain gear combos. I was planning on tightening them, but well....

The shop I got the hub from is sending me 54T kit so that's groovy if it holds up. Otherwise, I'll pull the springs to increase the force and degrease and use a freehub oil instead of the grease and see how things hold up.

Otherwise thanks to @Redwood Mulch Chucker I'll have a spare 18T set that I guess I can carry about with me in the case I get stuck out in the woods again......
 

Cerberus75

Monkey
Feb 18, 2017
520
194
I'd take the wheel off put the axel back in. Then see how much flex is in the rear. If it twist enough the hub caps will loose pressure.