Hyd Disc brake question
- Thread starter stosh
- Start date
If you can mount the wheel (put the disk between the pads they should slef correct right?stosh said:
Sounds like your caliper isn't retracting at all. That sounds more problematic than just pushing them out again.
I hope that pushing them out is the easy correct fix. Good luck.Rhino
V
Vermont
Guest
i have a plastic thing that Hayes sent with my brakes...when this happens i work it into the pads...pushes the caliper apart...you can buy one for $2 from any on line store that carries hayes small parts...cambriabike has em i think...easier than takin out pads and all that....plus your not risking damage to calipers and pistons...whatever
No, that's a service kit. This is literally a small hunk of plastic, probably the width of 4 credit cards, that slides in between the brake pads when you take the wheel off. Your LBS probably carries them.
Morryjg said:I've always just used a flathead screwdriver to pry the pads apart. The brake pads are sturdy enough that you really don't have to worry about them unless you go after them like a B-movie hatchet murderer.
Thats probably what I"m going to do actually.
i seem to recall reading someplace that you need to be very carefull if you do it this way. some calipers have a ceramic coating on them that can be damaged with the screwdriver? i'm not too sure but thought i'd mention it just in case.Morryjg said:I've always just used a flathead screwdriver to pry the pads apart. The brake pads are sturdy enough that you really don't have to worry about them unless you go after them like a B-movie hatchet murderer.
The screwdriver will likely damage your pads. Take the pads out and push the pistons back atleast flush with the caliper housing. Use the box wrench- it may take some careful effort
I had a scary experience a few years back.
Basically one of my hayes pistons was chipped in two opposite places from pushing it back with a spanner (wrench for you americans). During a pre-ride check I squeezed the lever and the piston split in two.
Since then I leave the pads in place and push them apart with a screwdriver. I don't care about damaging the pads, they still work fine with the occasional bruise mark. Splitting pistons I'm not so happy about.
Basically one of my hayes pistons was chipped in two opposite places from pushing it back with a spanner (wrench for you americans). During a pre-ride check I squeezed the lever and the piston split in two.
Since then I leave the pads in place and push them apart with a screwdriver. I don't care about damaging the pads, they still work fine with the occasional bruise mark. Splitting pistons I'm not so happy about.
V
Vermont
Guest
i seriously advise against pushing directly on the pads with a screwdriver...the amount of heat created when braking makes them crumbly...if you dont have a plastic somethin or other to push in there...take the pads out and push the calipers back with a wrench...it takes 2 secs to take out pads and put em back in...unless you have spare pads layin around it could ruin your day to break up the braking surface of the pad and render it useless.
J
JRB
Guest
Plastic putty knives can work too.
Stosh - you may need to reset the caliper if it is simply drag. Hayes are bad about needing adjustment occassionally.
Stosh - you may need to reset the caliper if it is simply drag. Hayes are bad about needing adjustment occassionally.
One thing a lot of people don't realize is that with some hubs, the orientation of the axle in the dropouts can affect the centering of the caliper on the disc. Every Shimano hub I have had are like that. I think it's an issue with loose bearing cone type hubs. The locknuts are not perfectly square with the axle. So when you center the disc and caliper, then rotate the axle like when you remove the wheel and put it back on, the rotor is no longer centred. What I do is make a mark in the locknut so that I keep the axle in the same spot when I put the wheels back on.
I think that's why people believe Hayes brakes need frequent adjusting. Mine did when I had Rolf wheels and later XT hub wheels. But when I built up wheels with DT Swiss Hugi 240 disc hubs, the Hayes brakes were always spot on.
I think that's why people believe Hayes brakes need frequent adjusting. Mine did when I had Rolf wheels and later XT hub wheels. But when I built up wheels with DT Swiss Hugi 240 disc hubs, the Hayes brakes were always spot on.
Funny you should mention that.....Tuesday I got ready for a ride and thru my front wheel on......almost locked up. *scratching head* Undid the skewer and made shure it was in the drops....still locked. *monkey scratching his head*oldfart said:
Took wheel off put it back on...still almost bending the disk to get in the caliper....
They are Shimano mechincal disks....so I adjsuted the statick pad and recentered teh whole thing. In the 2 years I have had teh bike and taken that wheel off I have never had trouble....but this blew my mind.
Maybe that cheap loose bearing hubs are the culprit and I jsut didnt spint he axle enough? hahaha