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Discussion in 'Cross Country, All Mountain & Trail Riding' started by rideit, Oct 17, 2018.
Say what you will about Hayes mag 9/etc, they were butt simple to bleed.
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... and still used the same fittings as everyone else in the market.
The only difference is that they used a 6mm nut for the bleed valve, which is pretty tiny
OK, so i had the brilliant idea of over-pressurizing the system (with the syringe pushing oil into the caliper with the lever port closed) to get the lever to engage more quickly. All I suceeded in doing was getting the extra oil to come out of the end of the master cylinder...did I fuck it all up?
You can kinda see where it came out here.
In all seriousness, what should I do now?
The bite point is the same as before, but a tiny bit of oil squeezes out of the end, and I don't think that can be good.
I would strongly suggest that you...
Try it nao.
put the syringe back on, pump the lever a few times to equalize the pressurez, remove syringe. Profit!
It is that simple? Syringe on the caliper, leaving the lever port closed?
no put the syringe on the lever MC bleed port.
I don't know HOW you got fluid to come out where it did. might be fubar'd
Do you have a Shimano bleeding cup? Put it on with some oil in it, pump the lever a couple of times, pray that you didn't blow the rubber.
I tried that, I am afraid that I did the latter.
I've never even tried this two syringe crap, I do realize that a bubble can sometimes be in the caliper and especially for the rear brake, you might have to work it around a bit to work it up towards the lever, I also find a 2nd quick-bleed sometimes necessary to account for this. Follow the shimano instructions, set the lever screw full out (if I recall), work the lever back and forth at different angles to get the bubbles out. If you do get bubbles, as long as you store the bike upright, they'll work up to the lever, then just quickbleed. Use the lever reach adjust to to also change engagement, at least on mine it does. If that doesn't get the engagement quick enough, just go ride when it's -10, I guarantee that'll do it.
Pretty sure I got the air out, I have a whole host of new problems now, I think.
cura it nao?
I was going to say that...
2 months in issue-free.
New pads tonight. Fingers crossed.
Yeah I'm close to a year now with no problems...........except Magura's trademarked Rapid Pad Wear.
I don't ride very hard and prefer the resin pads over the sintered ones, mostly because my bike sounds like a train and it makes me realize how much I brake when I really don't need to.
Pretty sure this isn’t the brake’s fault...
Yeah. I was shocked how quickly I went through my first set of rear pads. I’ve still got a bit of life left in them, but not much.
I just did my first bleed on them for the hell of it. I yanked a couple of teeny bubbles out, but those were probably from the syringe/lever interface.
Bomber brakes. Worth the pad wear IMO.
They have always been the same, but all of my previous sets sucked, hahaha!
How they made a brake that looks so similar to my old MT6 but actually works I will never know. I think my current MT5 was about 1/3 the price of the MT6. My Vyron dropper on the other hand has been quite the turd sandwich, loose as a whore from new, stupidly slow reaction time, the head unscrewed and just yesterday it was stuck in the up position but the motor was operating. I had my frame made around an e-Dropper so I may have to get the drill out
Sounds like I blew the seal with too much pressure. Hopefully I can get just parts from Shimano, otherwise I'll have to buy a new lever, and fix the other one when parts start coming online...
Any of you internet sleuths know how to navigate Shimano technical documents?
I have been trying to find an exploded diagram with part numbers for 19' xtr. Br9120 brakes and 9100 cassette parts, to be specific...
The Shimano parts kit is a new lever.............
Yup, I had to buy a new complete brake. Anyone wanna buy a four pot XTR caliper and hose?
Hopefully my LBS that I am affiliated with will write me a receipt so I can try and warranty the pooched one.
And I thought that I was being so clever forcing extra fluid in the system...
Maybe ask in the Frankenbrake thread, Magura runs mineral oil
If you just had to buy a new brake, wouldn't you have a receipt?
Honestly I can't remember the last time I included a receipt with a Shimano warranty claim. Best warranty coverage in the business, IMO. Your shop Should be able to get it replaced for you easily.
Brake was from Germany, Shimano USA warranty won’t touch that. Has to be a receipt from an authorized us reseller. At least that was my impression, I haven’t warrantied anything with Shimano since 2004.
Good to hear you have had a different experience!